BX23 purchased 2003

[Toyboy]

Both of those reasons make absolutely no sense to me, but duly noted.

 

[Henro]

All the BX series steering cylinder part numbers sub to #K2063-16500.
K2511-16500 is no longer available, even from Messicks.

Thanks! I will file that in my memory banks. Was not apparent to me when I looks at the Messicks site...

 

[dvto2]

So I did end up buying a new steering cylinder. It was $208. I haven't put it in yet because the steering started working again. Part of it was just making sure the transmission fluid was full - it was down at least a quart. I never saw that before. That only helped the steering somewhat, at first, and then after operating the tractor for about a half hour, the steering was suddenly fine. Maybe some seal slipped back into place or the fluid took a while refill the cylinder. Im glad because id rather wait until it's warmer to do the change.

 

[Toyboy]

Your just prolonging the inevitable. I believe all the seals are O rings. Get what you can out of the current cyl but the end is near....

 

[lugbolt]

replace it

not worth the trouble to try to rebuild it

new cylinder is a superceded part number so I'd like to say they improved it. Might have simply changed the manufacturer of the cylinder or painted it with a different kind of paint, who knows they never tell anyone. There was a short period of time when I had to replace about 2 dozen of them, I want to say around 2012. They were all backordered. When I called to ask status of backorder, I was told that they have a new superceded part number which is "an improved design"--whatever that means.

It's easy to install too. Just don't get the lines backwards. I only did that once. The tractor's owner and I knew each other fairly well, and that's all I'm saying.

 

[dvto2]

"It's easy to install too. Just don't get the lines backwards. I only did that once. The tractor's owner and I knew each other fairly well, and that's all I'm saying."

Hmm. Easy, huh?

It's spring. The steering was doing so well I thought I might be trying to send the part back, but in the midst of cleaning up 5 large pines that came down this week, it crapped out again and topping off the hydraulic fluid isn't fixing it this time.

I saw a video where someone changing the cylinder on a 2008 bx2350 said he had to drop the axel to do thre disassembly. I might be able to reach the hydraulic line on the left side (left as in sitting in the driver's seat) but the right line seems difficult/impossible to reach. I could use some guidance on this - do I need to drop the axel and how to do that? What's the best way to stop from losing all my hydraulic fluid. Any other tips would be great or links .

 

[dvto2]

Here's what im looking at.

 

[whitetiger]

Hmm. Easy, huh?

It's spring. The steering was doing so well I thought I might be trying to send the part back, but in the midst of cleaning up 5 large pines that came down this week, it crapped out again and topping off the hydraulic fluid isn't fixing it this time.

I saw a video where someone changing the cylinder on a 2008 bx2350 said he had to drop the axel to do thre disassembly.
You do not have to drop the front axle, that would make the job several times more difficult. The RH hose fitting is accessible, sometimes you will have to remove the RH mounting bracket to lower the cylinder some to turn the wrench.

I might be able to reach the hydraulic line on the left side (left as in sitting in the driver's seat) but the right line seems difficult/impossible to reach. I could use some guidance on this - do I need to drop the axel and how to do that? What's the best way to stop from losing all my hydraulic fluid.
You will only lose the fluid in the cylinder, steering hoses, and steering valve. Maybe a quart at the most.

Any other tips would be great or links .
The inner tie rod ends are loctited into the cylinder shaft, you may need to heat the end of the shaft to break them loose. A small propane torch usually is enough. Use a couple of drops of Red loctite during reassembly.
Some unscrew the inner tie rods from the shaft before removing the RH mount, others take the outer tie rod ends loose from the knuckle and remove the cylinder with the tie rods attached. The assembly can then be done on the bench or in a vice. DO NOT CLAMP THE NEW CYLINDER IN A VICE!
After reinstalling the cylinder, start the engine, turn the wheel back and forth, stop to stop a few times, shut off the engine and top off your hydraulic oil level.

 

[dvto2]

So it happened again. I was exploring how to do the disassembly, rotating the inner tie rod ends - it looks like you need to get a wrench on each nut so the cylinder doesn't just spin?

Anyway, after fiddling with it, I decided discretion was the better part of valor for today, and just went to put the tractor away for the day and darn if the steering didn't start working again, perfectly. Im thinking there must be a seal that pops in and out. I know I'll have to do this eventually.

 

[DustyRusty]

You might consider doing a hydraulic fluid change while you are doing all the other work to the tractor. Do you know when the last hydraulic (Super UDT-2) fluid and filter change was last changed? New cylinder, deserves a fresh oil change.

 

[dvto2]

You might consider doing a hydraulic fluid change while you are doing all the other work to the tractor. Do you know when the last hydraulic (Super UDT-2) fluid and filter change was last changed? New cylinder, deserves a fresh oil change.

Good point. I replaced the filter a few years ago, maybe 5. I had banged the filter on a tree limb and it began leaking. However, I only replaced what leaked out cause the dealer said not to bother with changing all the oil. It does always look clean to me.

 

[netxtown]

I just bit the bullet and bought a new cylinder. $270. Almost all dealerships are on backorder with Kubota for the cylinder (K2063-16500). Of course, pricing does reflect the demand - which is a clue that the original steering cylinders are an abject fail. For as much as these tractors cost - AND this is a known manufacturing defect - this replacement should have been covered by Kubota regardless of age. But, they didn't.

FWIW - I found 3rd party dust boots that put the kubota boots to shame. I also found tie rod ends that are 1/3 the kubota price. (yes - I have lost my "trust and allegiance" to Kubota. You can ask any piece of the plastic body strewn about my little 3.5 acres.....

With all that said.... how does the steering lines/cylinder get bled being there is no way to do so at the cylinder? A long time ago i read to use the bucket to lift the front wheels - and then quickly spin the steering wheel repeatedly from lock to lock. Is that still the best procedure?

 

[ipz2222]

The problem is,,, the seals shrink over time. Sometimes they seal , sometimes they don't. Being an automotive transmission mechanic, I pulled my cylinder off, disassembled it and went thru my extra seals and found some the right size. 6 years ago and still working and no money spent.

 

[whitetiger]

I just bit the bullet and bought a new cylinder. $270. Almost all dealerships are on backorder with Kubota for the cylinder (K2063-16500). Of course, pricing does reflect the demand - which is a clue that the original steering cylinders are an abject fail. For as much as these tractors cost - AND this is a known manufacturing defect - this replacement should have been covered by Kubota regardless of age. But, they didn't.

And yet, the replacement cylinder is about 30% LESS than the original cylinder.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

what the item is, has little to do with it's sticker price.
it could be the replacement is cheaper to make,so sells for less ?
maybe it's used on dozens of models not just ONE tractor ?
nobody says it cost me $100 to make it, so I'll charge x2, $200.....
more what the market( buyers) will bear !
consider.... a 10# chunk of plastic fender for another tractor is $2000 or the replacement alternator for a pickup is $400 or a fuelpump for another pickup is $900 !! considering the MILLIONS of the last two items made, they should be less than $50 each, the fender maybe $200.

 

[netxtown]

I just bit the bullet and bought a new cylinder. $270.

Right now i am so disgusted with this thing that i almost took a sledge hammer to it. I replaced the cylinder, tie rod end/ball joint on the left side, and rubber boots on both sides. even put a new hydraulic hose as the one there was looking a bit old. Anyways, put her all back together...and damn if I don't have real steering again.

Took her for the first mow.....and I noticed the left side at the tie rod end was jiggling quite a bit. It really was kind of thrashing in and out. Headed for the garage...jacked her up....and BOTH of the holder brackets were completely bent out of whack and the cylinder was no longer being held by them.

Because I am old - sometimes forgetful.....I immediately checked the two bolts on each one. ALL were good and tight. So now i am trying to figure out what went wacko with this steering POS.

I already ordered replacement brackets - and while it isn't outrageous (like some kubota parts)(like $20 for a damned gas cap!), it is still another $40 bucks into this steering KRAP that KUBOTA should be held responsible for. They manufactured a defective cylinder - and stuck all their customers with the tab.

 

[whitetiger]

The cylinder lasted for 18 years and it is defective??????????????
If the cylinder is moving around, did you move the external snap rings from the old cylinder barrel onto the new one? They are what keeps the cylinder in place in the brackets.

 

[DustyRusty]

Right now i am so disgusted with this thing that i almost took a sledge hammer to it. I replaced the cylinder, tie rod end/ball joint on the left side, and rubber boots on both sides. even put a new hydraulic hose as the one there was looking a bit old. Anyways, put her all back together...and damn if I don't have real steering again.

Took her for the first mow.....and I noticed the left side at the tie rod end was jiggling quite a bit. It really was kind of thrashing in and out. Headed for the garage...jacked her up....and BOTH of the holder brackets were completely bent out of whack and the cylinder was no longer being held by them.

Because I am old - sometimes forgetful.....I immediately checked the two bolts on each one. ALL were good and tight. So now i am trying to figure out what went wacko with this steering POS.

I already ordered replacement brackets - and while it isn't outrageous (like some kubota parts)(like $20 for a damned gas cap!), it is still another $40 bucks into this steering KRAP that KUBOTA should be held responsible for. They manufactured a defective cylinder - and stuck all their customers with the tab.

Do you blame your parents for your being forgetful at your age. After all, you inherited their genes, and your forgetfulness is a result of a defect in you. Why don't you just take a sledge hammer to the machine, and get all your frustrations out. Then drop it off at the scrap yard, and buy a yellow and green machine. I hear that the company has been around for a very long time, and it will come with a new warranty. When the warranty expires, you will probably have forgotten all about your 18 year old Kubota.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

curious was I , so I went to Kubotaparts to see what the cylinder looks like as I have 2019 BX23S, similar....
I can see how your most recent failure could have occoured and it's not a 'manufacturing defect'.Then again the original isn't either. 18 years of abuse,how many hours, how many turns ??
Power steering 'racks' are kinda complicated,not really designed for the abuse most people give them (turning lock to lock with a full bucket ...is a typical abuse )..
if you want to be really ,really 'upset' with a TRUE manunfacturing defect... by a 2 year old F150 and have BOTH tie rod ends 'pop off' . A KNOWN defect but NOT a safety issue so NO recall, cost for repair 100% of the owner of the truck......

 

[whitetiger]

The cylinder lasted for 18 years and it is defective??????????????
If the cylinder is moving around, did you move the external snap rings from the old cylinder barrel onto the new one? They are what keeps the cylinder in place in the brackets.

I see that you have two threads going and found that you had left the snap rings off.