We decided to put in a zip line on the upper field, not a long one just about 160 feet. I figured on 4 foot hole for the posts. I’ve dug many 3 ft square 3-4 ft deep hole for trees over the years so I figured 2 stupid 12” x4ft holes no problem...broke out the one man gas powered auger and fought all the way to about 30” then said screw this.. with a bit more colorful language, went to tractor supply and bought a 3 point auger with a 12”x48” auger bit.. when I got it home I uncreated and assembled it, fought with it to get it attached then eagerly drove down to my waiting hole to dig the final 18ish inches... and promptly got the f-ing thing stuck. So tomorrow morning I will be digging it out... any advice from those who have experienced this would be greatly appreciated!
Freaking Auger...
- Thread starter jaargh
- Start date
Big pipe wrench to let you unscrew the auger from beneath a stone. Disconnect pto shaft.
Forum members who use hydraulically driven augers hanging from a loader tell of the ease of getting their augers unstuck by being able to reverse the rotation direction.
Dave
Forum members who use hydraulically driven augers hanging from a loader tell of the ease of getting their augers unstuck by being able to reverse the rotation direction.
Dave
Drill in steps, retract and clear the auger each time.
On the flip side you now discovered how to install helical screw pile!
On the flip side you now discovered how to install helical screw pile!
As I was laying in bed last night that thought occurred to me so I will be dragging a pipe wrench and cheater bar down to the hole in a bit
Please let us know how you make out.As I was laying in bed last night that thought occurred to me so I will be dragging a pipe wrench and cheater bar down to the hole in a bit
Dave
Yep, PHD's aren't like drilling a 1/4" hole through plywood. You have to pump the drill, removing the spoils as you go deeper. More chances to get the auger stuck in tough, rocky soil.
As previously stated let auger dig a few inches then raise 3 pt a few inches then lower 3 pt then repeat. Also operate tractor engine at 1000-1200 rpm not wide open throttle.
As other posters above said, in a little and then pull it up to clear the material is the best method I've found. When I get stuck the 1st shot is a 3' pipe wrench. I've also had success with CAREFULLY and SLOWLY working the tractor back and forth a couple of inches.
I've never had to dig it out.
I've never had to dig it out.
You guys are making me glad I got a post hole digger that works off of my front end loaded and 3rd function valve!!!
well, once the sun topped the mountain I took my 24" pipe wrench and a 4ft piece of pipe aannnddd..it did not budge! I rocked the tractor back and forth, took a 60" digging bar and ran it down and rocked the bit in every possible direction, disconnected the arm from the gearbox and attached a d ring then hooked up my chain hoist and nothing worked so I started digging... about 18" down I hit a rock, more digging and out came the rock. It was fairly flat, about 8x6 and maybe 2" thick. It would seen the auger threaded itself along that rock and all was good till the auger hit hard clay at about 4ft then just wedged itself under that rock. Once the rock was out I fired up the auger and lifted it out of the hole.The posts are now set, braced up and concrete poured. Looks like I may be getting some counter weight for the back after nearly wrecking with 5 90lb sacks of concrete in the fel... but that is a story for another time. Thanks to all for the info, much appreciated!!
Glad you finally got it out.
Ask for a bigger pipe wrench and longer cheater bar for next Christmas
The farmer who owned my land before me used to use dynamite to make fence post holes.
Jamb a big bar in the ground to make a pocket for the dynamite stick and let her go.
Unfortunately, one time the dynamite did not go off as expected and he walked over to see why.
The rest of his life he had one eye. and a lot of scars.
Dave
Nope. I ordered it through Everything Attachments. It’s a Digga DDD. 5-12 gpm flow
I got the 9” rock auger too. I’m not sure what I will be digging In, I have lots and lots is holes to drill.
I have a PTO post hole digger, bought way back when all I had was a Ford 8N. Now that I have the third function valve and hoses setup for some other attachments on the L3301, that hyd. digger looks great. Luckily, I have no more need for a lot of holes, and even better, no rocks, so for my very occasional use I guess I'll stick with what I have.
A quick post hole digger story: moving onto 40 acres of raw ground 13 years ago, a cheap plastic lawn chair with a sawzalled hole in the seat of the appropriate size, and a 12" hole deep as I could get it, quickly solved the immediate need for a place to GO. Throw some sawdust in at every "use," and it was smell free and sure beat squatting down in the woods. 2 weeks later, fill it and repeat in a different location. I have a flush toilet now, 3 of them, (with no mortgage, to put it all in perspective) but to this day every time I hook up the auger I think of those days!
A quick post hole digger story: moving onto 40 acres of raw ground 13 years ago, a cheap plastic lawn chair with a sawzalled hole in the seat of the appropriate size, and a 12" hole deep as I could get it, quickly solved the immediate need for a place to GO. Throw some sawdust in at every "use," and it was smell free and sure beat squatting down in the woods. 2 weeks later, fill it and repeat in a different location. I have a flush toilet now, 3 of them, (with no mortgage, to put it all in perspective) but to this day every time I hook up the auger I think of those days!
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
FlyIdaho
I know that curiosity killed the cat but...what the heck are you doing in that picture? Is that a railroad tie? What is the need for the post if that is what it is?
I know that curiosity killed the cat but...what the heck are you doing in that picture? Is that a railroad tie? What is the need for the post if that is what it is?
I am transitioning from the buck rail fence I just built along one side of my property, down another end where barb wire is more appropriate. I am setting the first of two ties, separated by 5, that are cross braced, that are my deadmen for anchoring the wire. The tree/brush puller attachment I have (I got it for pulling sage brush, works perfect for that) is also a pretty cool material of any type handler. Setting the post neatly in the hole was easy.
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
That makes so much more sense now, thanks for the explanation. We base most fencing on eight feet post center and generally the h-brace is also eight feet apart. Why 5 foot space? More idle curiosity.
And I hate barbed wire running and stretching, always get too many nicks and scratches. Be safe