I have a 10 yr. old L2800 that grinds the gears in HIGH range. Not all the time, but frequently. I adjusted the clutch and that helped but did not completely solve the issue. Any ideas . . . . anybody?
L2800 shifting issue
- Thread starter mikeboggess
- Start date
Are you shifting gears while in motion?
If so, I do not think your tractor has synchro's to allow shifting when moving.
Dave
Do the gears grind while running in high range or do they grind while shifting into high range? Tractors are not normally shifted when in motion like a car or truck. There may be some grinding when selecting a gear when stopped due to lack of synchros as Dave suggested. It may be you are not leaving the clutch depressed long enough for the gears to stop spinning, too - or the tractor is rolling slightly when trying to select a gear.
I have an L285 and had the same problem. I could be at a dead stop for several seconds, and it was nearly impossible to shift into any hear w/o grinding them. I adjusted the clutch with little effect.
I had just purchased the L285 and had no idea what fluid was in the transmission or how long it had been there, so I drained it (7 gallons) and refilled with Universal Tractor Transmission Fluid.
There was a definite improvement. I could generally shift with out a grind if I idled down as slow as the engine would run before shifting, and it was best when the oil was warm. I ran that way for a season and then decided to change the oil again (another 7 gallons).
Now it seems just about perfect. It's possible to grind with a quick shift when cold, but that can be avoided with just a little care and slowing then engine a little. Once warmed up there is no problem at all.
I hope that helps you out.
Mr. Peabody
I had just purchased the L285 and had no idea what fluid was in the transmission or how long it had been there, so I drained it (7 gallons) and refilled with Universal Tractor Transmission Fluid.
There was a definite improvement. I could generally shift with out a grind if I idled down as slow as the engine would run before shifting, and it was best when the oil was warm. I ran that way for a season and then decided to change the oil again (another 7 gallons).
Now it seems just about perfect. It's possible to grind with a quick shift when cold, but that can be avoided with just a little care and slowing then engine a little. Once warmed up there is no problem at all.
I hope that helps you out.
Mr. Peabody
Thank you for your reply. I am not in any motion when shifting
My apologies for the delayed reply to your response to my issue. I am not in any motion when shifting. Any other thoughts?
My apologies for the delayed reply to your response to my issue. You are correct that I am not leaving the clutch depressed long enough for the clutch to do it's thing. How long you should leave a clutch depressed? If I leave the clutch depressed for say 10 seconds ( I have to do that) it seems to shift w/o grinding. I am not used to have to leave a clutch depressed that long. Is that normal on Kubota tractors? Thoughts on this please.
My apologies for the delayed reply to your response to my issue. Thanks for your reply. I will check and change the trans. oil.
Can you confirm that your tractor is an L2800DT or L2800F? And, if so, can you shift the transmission with the PTO running? In other words, does it have independent PTO? (Tractordata.com shows the gear model 2800's to have non-independent PTO)
.
There's (a little) method to my madness. We have a Ford with a 4+Rx2. It can be a challenge to shift. But it has independent PTO. Part of the PTO shaft (up to the PTO clutch) turns all the time, and is concentric with the transmission input shaft. I think oil and bearing drag between the 2 shafts keeps the transmission input shaft turning when it's in neutral sometimes. When I'm using it a lot, I can work out some things that seem to help - for example, shift the range to neutral, shift gears, and then shift the range back. I could try a different fluid, but it doesn't seem to improve after the fluid warms up, do I don't think it would help. At least we don't have to worry about the synchronizers wearing out.
.
Your tractor may be similar or not. If you are stopped, does yours grind when shifting from neutral or when shifting from another gear?
Your issue may be the nature of the beast, but someone may have an answer. Good luck.
.
There's (a little) method to my madness. We have a Ford with a 4+Rx2. It can be a challenge to shift. But it has independent PTO. Part of the PTO shaft (up to the PTO clutch) turns all the time, and is concentric with the transmission input shaft. I think oil and bearing drag between the 2 shafts keeps the transmission input shaft turning when it's in neutral sometimes. When I'm using it a lot, I can work out some things that seem to help - for example, shift the range to neutral, shift gears, and then shift the range back. I could try a different fluid, but it doesn't seem to improve after the fluid warms up, do I don't think it would help. At least we don't have to worry about the synchronizers wearing out.
.
Your tractor may be similar or not. If you are stopped, does yours grind when shifting from neutral or when shifting from another gear?
Your issue may be the nature of the beast, but someone may have an answer. Good luck.