So the bearings in my fdr1660 mower deck have been getting quite noisy so I figured they should be replaced. I bought the mower used a bunch of years ago and have no idea how old it is. Anyway I took one of the hubs apart, pulled the top bearing off the spindle without any trouble. The bottom bearing on the other hand won't budge. It is pressed onto the spindle then a collar is pressed on after the bearing. I tried pulling it without luck. Then I tried pressing it out with a 12 ton press and the darn thing won't come off. I even heated it with oxy acetylene. The parts diagram shows that it comes off I'm wondering if anyone else has had trouble changing these bearings?
FDR1660 bearings
- Thread starter Jhilde
- Start date
I gather from your description the spindle 8, bearing 9 and collar 10 is in your hand, in other words out of the housing, or is that assembly still in the housing? In the first scenario I'd suggest trying to get a bearing splitter between the collar and bearing trying pressing just that piece, then attack the bearing. Under the second scenario you're fighting the friction of both the bearing and collar in the housing, I'd suggest very thoroughly cleaning the gap between the collar and housing and placing the assembly in a bucket of 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF and led sit for a day or two, then try pressing it again. Is there a shop close by that has a large press? You might as well start removing the other spindles and rebuild all of them you'll already be ordering bearings, I'd also purchase new fasteners and when reassembling use Anti-Seize liberally. What type of bearings are installed open, shielded, sealed ? Good luck
kubotafreak
Well-known member
Equipment
GRAND l6060, L3560, B6100, gr2100, tg 1860, g1800, g1900, g2160
Those give fits with a 20 ton. In my experience they come off too easy or they are stuck like being tack welded. Good candidate for pb blaster or candle wax.
(heat till the oil smokes off, and touch a candle to the interfaces, it will instantly melt and capillary action soak in)
(heat till the oil smokes off, and touch a candle to the interfaces, it will instantly melt and capillary action soak in)
Yes I have the spindle out of the housing. I left it in the press over night to let the penetrating oil soak in. I'll try atf if this doesn't work. I don't know of anyone around with a bigger shop press other than the dealer who sold me the tractor but for what it's worth I might be better off having them change the bearings for me.
Are you trying to press both the bearing and collar at the same time? First attempt to use a bearing splitter between the bearing and collar then press just the collar, if successful then press the beating off or just cut the bearing. If you don't have a splitter, cut the bearing which will give room for your press arbors plates to get under the collar, then press.
Fought many bearings in my life. If you are changing the collar also then cut them off. My preference is a grinder with a thin cutting blade. Even used my dremel tool with a cut off disc. Take your time and don't cut the spindle.
I've never used candle wax before but might have to give that a try. Looks like I will need a bigger press by the sound of it.
No I don't have a splitter but I did end up destroying the bearing in the process and am pressing on the collar directly.
You know I never thought to cut the collar off and replace it as well but It would definitely save me the hassle of pressing them.
kubotafreak
Well-known member
Equipment
GRAND l6060, L3560, B6100, gr2100, tg 1860, g1800, g1900, g2160
Follow thebicman's advice, if that pb/wax doesnt change anything. The bearing races are hard and brittle. I usually take a good size chisel to the cut groove and it splits them open. This way you dont have to cut all the way through, and risk cutting the spindle.
Alright I think that's the plan. I'll cut the collars off and replace them as well. Thanks for all your help.
Collars, bearings etc. you may to consider pricing the entire spindle assembly, there's been cases where it's more cost effective and less downtime.
yeah I've done a bunch of them. Cut them off. Much quicker. It hurts nothing if you cut a little deep and get into the shaft. Just push the bearing over the imperfection and call it a day. If anything, a little slot or flat in the shaft under the bearing might allow some moisture to settle out should it get between the upper and lower bearing. I have done a mower or two that was cut that way; although not LandPride.
whitetiger
Moderator
Staff member
Equipment
Kubota tech..BX2370, RCK60, B7100HST, RTV900 w plow, Ford 1100 FWA
On all of the FDR16 series I have had a part, the blade hub was threaded onto the shaft. I do not remember whether they are RH or LH threads though.
We will not go into how I learned they are threaded through.
We will not go into how I learned they are threaded through.
Well you were right. I just cut it apart and the darn thing was threaded on. Lesson learned I guess.