Thank you. I think we have some "expired" dye-pen here at work that is in the "dispose" pile. Can't use it on aircraft but probably no issue for a tractor.
BX2200 Misfire and Dark Coolant
- Thread starter Kubota77340
- Start date
May need to remove the valves to inspect. Might be cracked in exhaust port around the valve guide.
I'm thinking that's a good possibility. There's a machine shop here in town with the required tools I'll be hauling it to tomorrow. Then to get all the gaskets and stuff on order.
Well, problem found- several cracks. Center cylinder between exhaust valve and port for fuel injection, forward cylinder two large cracks spanning most of the way from the exhaust valve across the diameter of the cylinder, and rear cylinder no visible cracks. Evidently got hot at some point and certainly explains all the gross stuff in the cooling system. Next question- where best to get a new one? Messicks has it, for about 1/3 what I paid for the whole tractor 
. I've never seen anything good about aftermarket heads but getting this thing running again is getting to be painful. I can typically get parts a little cheaper at my local Kubota but still going to be a grand to get this little guy running again!
. I've never seen anything good about aftermarket heads but getting this thing running again is getting to be painful. I can typically get parts a little cheaper at my local Kubota but still going to be a grand to get this little guy running again!Attachments
RCW
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Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Ouch.....
I can't offer much help, but I've read here for years that some aftermarket heads create more problems than they fix. They can be junk, right out of the box.....
I can't offer much help, but I've read here for years that some aftermarket heads create more problems than they fix. They can be junk, right out of the box.....
A few updates, all. I found a ready-to-install head new from Kubota for $799 (to me, that's eye-watering but I'm finding out that's what it takes) from GrainFarmer, and my local Kubota shop was able to get me the gaskets and other parts for about 20% less than online list prices, so that's nice.
I found the engine mounts (isolators) were bad (the engine could be lifted by hand-oops) so I got replacements for those, which will hopefully reduce vibration a bit. I'm also going to throw on a new water pump hose since I'm there and the other hoses are new. Hopefully running in a week or two.
Two questions:
1- Any suggestions on flushing the cooling system before starting it again?
2- Any recommendations for cleaning or testing the injectors before reassembling?
I found the engine mounts (isolators) were bad (the engine could be lifted by hand-oops) so I got replacements for those, which will hopefully reduce vibration a bit. I'm also going to throw on a new water pump hose since I'm there and the other hoses are new. Hopefully running in a week or two.
Two questions:
1- Any suggestions on flushing the cooling system before starting it again?
2- Any recommendations for cleaning or testing the injectors before reassembling?
injectors rarely fail on kubota mechanical engines. Electronic, different story (but you don't have that). If in doubt, send them out. Similar for the pump. I don't have a clue why people keep saying "it could be injectors"...because the old style kubota injectors just don't die, ever. Oh nevermind I do have a clue. Inexperience. In my 30 years, i can think of ONE injector that I replaced, it was because Kubota asked me to (to rule out an engine knock) and guess what? It didn't solve it. Broken crankshaft due to hydrolock, which ended up being an owner-induced problem that kubota paid for. Starting fluid #1 problem and #2 problem, took it to a "shop" across town who diagnosed it as having low compression on #2 cyl, then added oil to the cylinder to get the compression back up. Hydro-locked, cracked the crank, and it eventually broke after they got it running. One of many reasons I don't have a lot of trust in "diesel shops" that don't regularly work on kubotas.
you mentioned that you had clearance in the #2 cylinder's valves and not #1 and #3. They should all have the same amount of clearance, which is specified by Kubota (.007" if I remember right?). If you had a few tight ones, they can sometimes cause problems but my question is why were they tight? USUALLLY a few tight valves means one of two things: (1) someone adjusted them wrong or (2) the valve itself and/or the seat are wearing differently then the others, at which time I'm going to question WHY. That would be a rarity. On almost all kubota engines that Iv'e run the valves on, every single time they are either all the same clearance on the looser side of spec, even after thousands of hours. 2 valves that are looser could mean that they're bent. That would certainly lead to compression loss and misfire.
you mentioned that you had clearance in the #2 cylinder's valves and not #1 and #3. They should all have the same amount of clearance, which is specified by Kubota (.007" if I remember right?). If you had a few tight ones, they can sometimes cause problems but my question is why were they tight? USUALLLY a few tight valves means one of two things: (1) someone adjusted them wrong or (2) the valve itself and/or the seat are wearing differently then the others, at which time I'm going to question WHY. That would be a rarity. On almost all kubota engines that Iv'e run the valves on, every single time they are either all the same clearance on the looser side of spec, even after thousands of hours. 2 valves that are looser could mean that they're bent. That would certainly lead to compression loss and misfire.
Thanks, Lugbolt!
New head installed, everything back together. Did a basic "roll test" of the pushrods and found them straight. Started right up with the valves set in the middle of the clearance range.
The temp gauge barely comes off the peg, and I was very careful to exercise all the air out of the hoses so I'm sure it's not dry. Maybe a new probe needed. The gauge goes off the scale when grounded, so that end still works fine.
Thanks to all who gave pointers here. I'm going to run it a little more, pop the rocker cover off and re-torque the head bolts per the Kubota book and hook the mower back up. Hopefully this project gets me several more years of life from this little tractor.
-Kubota77340
RCW
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
That's normal on those tractors. My BX2230 with a new gauge and sending unit runs just an 1/8" or so off the low mark when fully warmed up. IR thermometer shows the engine is 170° to 180°, so the thermostat is good too.
I suggest dropping in two Bar’s Leak Tablets, to keep leaks from happening...
GM put these in cars at the factory...
GM put these in cars at the factory...
Best Radiator Stop Leak Tablets | Repair Radiator Leaks
Bar's Leaks Radiator Stop Leak Tablets are designed to fix your Leaky Radiator from within. Our products are affordable and safe for all vehicles.
barsleaks.com
RCW
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
I suggest dropping in two Bar’s Leak Tablets, to keep leaks from happening...
GM put these in cars at the factory...
Best Radiator Stop Leak Tablets | Repair Radiator Leaks
Bar's Leaks Radiator Stop Leak Tablets are designed to fix your Leaky Radiator from within. Our products are affordable and safe for all vehicles.barsleaks.com
I wouldn’t use them, but to each their own .