New owner of a RTV-XG850 Sidekick here. Wondering what other 850 owner's are using for oil. Trying to get everything together before the first oil change. I most likely will stay with 10W30, maybe switch to 5w30 if it was a really cold winter. I had originally had my heart set on using synthetic, but not sure that's the route I'll go now. , mainly due to the choices out there in the viscosity I want, I could easily go with a 0W40 synthetic but that viscosity doesn't really interest me. I already picked up a Kubota filter for it, and am considering using the Kubota 10w30, at least until the warranty is up. Any input is appreciated. Thanks
RTV Sidekick Oil
- Thread starter Cdale
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I haven't got to the 50 hour mark yet so I'm still undecided. I'll probably go synthetic.
How do you like the machine so far? I wish the throttle was a little less twitchy going in reverse...especially when going to hook up a trailer. Seems more like a toggle switch than a pedal.
How do you like the machine so far? I wish the throttle was a little less twitchy going in reverse...especially when going to hook up a trailer. Seems more like a toggle switch than a pedal.
Magicman
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85Hokie
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Synthetic should be easily found in those specific weights - I would search a bit.
Without out starting another oil discussion - the advantages of using synthetic is now a no brainer - the cost is no longer an issue and the benefits are tremendous.
I'm happy with it so far, my issue with reverse is it is a little fast. Nothing terrible, just a little fast for the utility work I will be doing.
I am planning on using one of the recommended weights. And I could find those in automotive synthetic oils, but I'm not sure about running a automotive oil in a machine that is usually turning higher rpm's more consistently than a automobile, but that's just a personal thought I guess, I'm sure they would meet the API rating required. I have been looking for either the 5w30 or 10w30 in a UTV/SxS synthetic blend. One of the other weights listed I could probably find a little easier but I really don't want to go that thin. I totally agree on the benefits of synthetic, with the extra heat and rpm's that's why I've really wanted to find synthetic.
85Hokie
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You mentioned it turns a higher RPM than a typical car - you running at 6k or higher?
As listed below - any good synthetic multi-vis oil will work as long as it meets the SG, SH, SJ or higher ratings......... most if not all synthetic oils will reach or exceed those.
unless you are running in cold single digits ... I would go with the 10w-30 and maybe change to 5w-30 in the winter.
Any "car-truck" oil will work perfectly in this engine.
Now if this thing is spinning at 14,000 rpms .......... then you might need to find that racing oil!
As listed below - any good synthetic multi-vis oil will work as long as it meets the SG, SH, SJ or higher ratings......... most if not all synthetic oils will reach or exceed those.
unless you are running in cold single digits ... I would go with the 10w-30 and maybe change to 5w-30 in the winter.
Any "car-truck" oil will work perfectly in this engine.
Now if this thing is spinning at 14,000 rpms .......... then you might need to find that racing oil!
I really appreciate all the reply's. I did a lot of researching last night and have most likely decided on Rotella T6 Multi-vehicle in 5w30. The Rotella T6 I see a lot of folks run in their SxS/UTV's is JASO MA rated for wet clutches, but from what I have seen in my manual, AKA posted above, my vehicle does not look to need the MA rating. The T6 Multi-Vehicle 5w30 formula does not have the MA rating which apparently is not a big deal for me, but is diesel rated CK-4 and gasoline rated API SN. So it more than exceeds what is required and is a full synthetic. I would go with a 10w30, but I don't see they make that in this formula. I compared the specs on the T6 Multi-vehicle 5w30 to the 10w30 I assume is in the machine right now and the T6 Multi-vehicle 5w30 looks to be a tad bit thinner at cold temps but a little thicker at full engine temp than the 10w30. To each their own, I'm kind of meticulous when it comes to maintenance. I don't mind spending a few extra bucks to give myself a warm and fuzzy feeling that I've done all I can. As I said in the original post I am going to use a Kubota filter for sure(not trying to start a filter brand fight) mainly because it's their filter, it's easily obtained and the price is right in line if not slightly cheaper than I expected. Again, I really appreciate the advice and perspectives.
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85Hokie
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Remember ..... the first number IS the VISCOSITY of the oil when "cold" ---- thus 5w will flow better in cold than 10w...... HOWEVER the second number is what it behaves like when reaching a "hot" temperature. The modifiers actually "thicken the oil" as it get hot - thicken might not be the correct term - but it behaves like a 30 weight oil once it is at operating temps. Most if not all straight weight oils behave differently at cold then once hot. Oil thins out - flow better when hot, sometime to little viscosity - thus those little chemicals are added to help it behave like a heavier weight oil.
The specs I compared were the Viscosity ratings for each @ 100 C(212F), I think at this temp the 5w30 synthetic was .2 points thicker than the 10w30 conventional I suspect came in it, which surprised me a little bit. At 40C I think the synthetic 5w30 was about 5 points thinner than the conventional 10w30. This is my amateur reading of the specs and calling them points, which I am sure is not the proper term. Thanks
Not trying to be "That Guy" here, but why not use the manufacturers oil? As much as I hate engineers (as a mechanic) they have specified oil for specified parts. And, the manufacturers oils are not much or any higher $ than aftermarket oils. You may not be able to get your oil at 7-11, but that's not a bad thing. In my opinion.
I believe the sidekick is the newest side by side to complete with other manufactures in that class. I was always with the understand that your should use conventional oils for break-in purposes before switching to syn. Not sure if this is still the thinking. I believe the Rotella T6 is a full synthetic diesel oil as I use the T6 5w40 in my diesel Kubotas. I use the mobile 1 5w30 full synthetic in my RTV 500 gasser. I believe synthetic oil are better for newer vehicles. I really enjoy my smaller RTV500 side as it is much easier getting around in the woods. It is NOT a racer by any means but fits my bill. I have looked at the new sidekick but concerned on it size for my use. The only bad I have heard is changing to synthetic oils in much older engines that have been using conventional oils for years due to seals leaking. Unsure if this this actually true. I had an B1550DT that I continued to use conventional oil in due to this concern. Everything I now have I use full synthetic. I have notices my kubotas seem to start better in real cold temps better, gas and diesel. My opinion.
85Hokie
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That WAS the defacto thought when the synthetic oils came out ....... and have been proven to be false in every regard, the fact is purely this - synthetic oils are not any slicker or "better" than conventional oils during break in periods - they do have a smaller molecule base, they do last longer and they have a lower viscosity in cold.
the seal leaking is another myth ......... because of the lower viscosity and size of the molecules - it will get around OLD seals ......... simply put - those seals are OLD and need to be replaced, the synthetic oil is not the problem, the rubber is!
If you look at all new cars today - 95% of them "make" you use synthetic oil in them for obvious reasons.
There are still people around that do not feel the need to use a synthetic oil ..... for whatever the reason.......
just like those that do not feel they should be vaccinated with any medically approved medicine.
there are two types of people in this world - those that believe ANYTHING someone else tells them and then those who dig a little deeper and see that what was told was not 100% accurate.
I ended up going with the Kubota 0w40 Synthetic. I called a dealer about something else and was asking about the ratings on the Kubota 10w30 and they said, Actually, the Sidekick is supposed to get the Kubota 0w40 Synthetic. They said thats what they change oil in them with. So I got online and checked a Kubota dealers website that sells online and the Kubota 0w40 Synthetic under the description says, "Exclusively for the RTV-XG850 Sidekick". If you look it up on Kubota's site under lubricants it is marked as API SN, and that is all that is on the bottle is API SN, so looks like a strictly gasoline engine oil. The dealer said that is the only Kubota machine it is sold for. So I'm satisfied, I get a synthetic, the weight range more than covers all the temperatures here, and if that's what actually came in it then I'm not changing it up on the machine during it's break-in period.
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