Hey guys. First timer here on the forum. Purchased this tractor last year and the first time out really working it my hydraulics on my loader started to go slow at times and lose power. Next day I want and mowed some grass and engine got warm. Cleaned out radiators good and never noticed it again. Last week had the same loader problem and tried to get through the job by using box blade instead of loader and hot hydraulics stared to affect my HST drive as well. Blew out radiator again hoping this would fix problem, but tonight with a clear radiator the loader started to give slow radiator performance. Guy I purchased it from had changed hydraulic filter 100 hrs before I bought it and it only has 750hrs. I'm pretty mechanical, but don't know what to start looking at for diagnosis. Don't have a WSM like I did for my last tractor so I probably should look into one of those but wondering if it's going to give me much diagnosis help for hydraulics. Have read some threads about hydraulics breaking down and pump no longer operating, but not sure why it's getting so hot. Any help would be appreciated.
MX5200 HST Hydraulics Overheating
- Thread starter tgarber22
- Start date
Did the pervious owner mention any problems? What brand fluid/filters did he use in the system? Why was he selling it? What is the actual fluid temperature? Is the fluid foamy? Are engine and hydraulic systems at the correct levels? What is the engine temperature? I assume you not only blew out the radiator but also the fluid cooler. Have you confirmed the brakes aren't locked up or dragging? When first starting (cold) the tractor are the hydraulics very responsive? Does everything return to normal when stationary and at an increased idle (1500RPMs). Purchase a WSM you'll being needing one way or the other. Consider carrying a heat gun to monitor the temperature. As the problem shows itself get off the tractor and check along the rear axels especially by the brake housings and along the transmission for hot spots, in theory everything should be at the same elevated temperature, you're looking for the area that's generating the friction. Just my .02
normal operating temp would be about 100 deg F above ambient. So on a hot day, 200 deg F.
What fluid? Cheap fluid doesn't do well with heat.....
Sometimes the radiator/cooler "looks" clean, but it ain't. Seen that a million times. Well maybe not a million but way too often.
Check your cooler hoses and pipes for bending or kinks. Look closely at those and then the pipes back by the suction filter as they kinda hang down and can get snagged/bent.
What fluid? Cheap fluid doesn't do well with heat.....
Sometimes the radiator/cooler "looks" clean, but it ain't. Seen that a million times. Well maybe not a million but way too often.
Check your cooler hoses and pipes for bending or kinks. Look closely at those and then the pipes back by the suction filter as they kinda hang down and can get snagged/bent.
I've not changed the fluid yet but that's my plan tonight. New Kubota fluid and filters. Previous owner was upgrading to Cab and XM radio supposedly and the service dept. said he did his own fluid changes and no record of problems. Levels are correct. How do you get an accurate fluid temp? Yes blew out all the coolers. Brackes don't seem to drag, but I'll use IR gun and monitor. Everything works good cold. Machine is in great shape. There was some dealer re-wiring done due to mice damage. Would like to put a hydraulic temp gauge on this. Where would I do that?
Somethings causing more heat then the cooling system can dissipate. You're looking for a representative temperature. You still haven't told us what the "warm" temperature is. I believe you have four points to drain the system. Note the condition and smell of the removed fluid. If the previous PO use a different fluid be reminded that you're not removing all of the fluid, there will be some dilution. Ensure that the correct filter is installed in the correct location. Good luck
I'm assuming "warm" temperature is IR temp readings in different areas of the case. I'll get that tonight. Thanks so much for your responses. I read something about the remotes valve in the right orientation, but haven't seen anything on that. I should add that I have rear and front remotes. Nothing attached to them when I'm overheating.
Who installed the loader?
Incorrect plumbing can be forcing fluid through a relief valve quickly elevating temperature.
Any hoses for hydraulics look different than most of the others?
Does it have rear remotes? Any implement connected to the remotes?
Does it have a 3rd function kit?
Has there been a backhoe installed at any time?
Dave
Incorrect plumbing can be forcing fluid through a relief valve quickly elevating temperature.
Any hoses for hydraulics look different than most of the others?
Does it have rear remotes? Any implement connected to the remotes?
Does it have a 3rd function kit?
Has there been a backhoe installed at any time?
Dave
kubotafreak
Well-known member
Equipment
GRAND l6060, L3560, B6100, gr2100, tg 1860, g1800, g1900, g2160
Does the three point lever make a noise(hiss) when it is raised to the max height? If so it will cause the system to hit relief and reduce system pressure. It will also cause the fluid to heat up very quickly. It is not uncommon for them to need adjustment. I always adjust till they hit relief, then back the other way a few turns.
Rear remotes + 3rd function kit installed by dealer. No backhoe, No implements attached. Bucket works fine until things heat up. Thanks for the response.
As a starting point, getting a $30 pressure gauge and male quick connect fitting might help you understand what is going on.
It is most unusual for hydraulic system performance to change with higher temps. High temps lead to component life shortening but simple things like a hydraulic cylinder loosing strength.............
Dave
It is most unusual for hydraulic system performance to change with higher temps. High temps lead to component life shortening but simple things like a hydraulic cylinder loosing strength.............
Dave
I will try this tonight on my 3pt at full extend. Where would this adjustment be? Having a hard time finding a PDF online I can download.
Likely the same or very similar to the MX5100.
See Position control Feedback rod adjustment at top of attached page
Dave
Did you check the rad screen, radiator, oil cooler for air flow?
Sometimes the rad fins get blocked if they've been washed down instead of blowing out the dust with an air compressor.
Sometimes the rad fins get blocked if they've been washed down instead of blowing out the dust with an air compressor.
rbargeron
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L5450, L48, L3250, L345 never enough attachments
Get an inexpensive IR temp gun like this and get a bunch of readings - see where the hotter spots are. Are the hot spots all related to hydraulics? Is there an engine temp gauge on the tractor? What's it doing when it gets hot? Is the thermostat opening?
What does the HST do differently when it heats up? (noises, smells, slippage?)
What does the HST do differently when it heats up? (noises, smells, slippage?)
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Thanks Dave for the instructions. I made the adjustments per the manual and doesn't hit the relieve valve. I'm pretty sure that was the issue. Earplugs in and 2400 rpms and I wasn't noticing that 1 out of 3 times I lifted the back boxblade to max and kept working the tractor that it was hitting that relief valve and heating up the fluid. Filter magnet didn't have many shavings as filters were only 100hrs old so hopefully nothing was damaged. If buying a HST always change the fluids to Super UDT2. I'm an engineer that likes to think I can always find a cheaper alternative, but why? Is it really worth the gamble. Knowing I had the right fluids in a machine that was owned before me is probably worth 20 points on my blood pressure and maybe a few extra years on Gods green earth running my tractor. Thanks for all the help and tips guys. Still looking for that MX5200 WSM PDF though.
Skyskier
New member
Equipment
Kubota L 3560, front bucket, ganon box w ripper's, an a 6 ft landscape rake
New Kubota owner here, 1st post,......I just got this back to the ranch last week an still learnig, .....my wife and I started building our "ranch" 45 years ago, I've had an old Ford 4,000 industial all these years, I'm just burned out tinkering with it, ANYWAY'S, we got the Kubota L3506 back home, an the 1st attachment I got was a landscape rake.....me & the wife ( she's 70 yrs old an I'm 74 ) managed to swap out the gannon box an put the rake on, yesterday, we took the rake off & put the ganon box back on an called it a day, went out to start it the next morning , fired right up, BUT, I couldn't get the loader to do anything ...NUTHIN, the control handle was locked up,.....I found the "lock / unlock" handle under the seat but couldn't move it at all ....after searching the whole damned innerweb, I went BACK to what we had done when switching out the ganon box, figuring the last thing I did was diconnect / re connect the 2 hydraulic hose's , when I pulled one of the hose connecter's out it started dribbling fluid, when I shoved it back in it didn't seem to go in as easy as the other one, after a couple of tries I got it back in, fired it up again an lo & behold.....bucket is operating as it should.....................ANYWAYS, sorry for the "novel" here, I'm sure MOST of you guy's probably woulda figured this out from the get !........hope this might help somebody out, AND, I'll most likely be asking stupid / simple questions now & then, but that's ok, at MY age, I can't be "embarassed 
