Ideas to make implements QH compatible

[wacnstac]

Great idea. I won't have to drill through the bolts or use the roll pins.

 

[OrangeKrush]

Great idea. I won't have to drill through the bolts or use the roll pins.

Expensive bolts but it should work as i7win7 suggested.. plus it’s adjustable!

 

[random]

Anyone ever modify a Land Pride plane/scraper to work with QH? That's the only one of mine left that looks like it might be a challenge. Hoping I can figure it out.

 

[i7win7]

Don't have a Land Pride plane/scraper. Bought this box blade

5′ Heavy Duty Box Blade | Behlen Country

Heavy Duty Box Blade

www.behlencountry.com

when assembled this way the lower pin spacing was to wide. Reassembled this way ang pin spacing was ok. it moved the top link further back. Added extended top hook and hydraulic top link for this implement.

 

[random]

Don't have a Land Pride plane/scraper. Bought this box blade

5′ Heavy Duty Box Blade | Behlen Country

Heavy Duty Box Blade

www.behlencountry.com

when assembled this way the lower pin spacing was to wide. Reassembled this way ang pin spacing was ok. it moved the top link further back. Added extended top hook and hydraulic top link for this implement.
View attachment 58336

So one problem with the LP is that the lower pins have metal frame on both sides. With the 3pt I have to lift the arm between them and insert the pin. So even if they're the right spacing for the QH I'm not sure I can get them to work together.

I'll have to look for some kind of bushing and verify the spacing I guess. Was just curious, not too high on my list right now.

 

[LobsterClaw207]

This is a great and informative thread!

I just got my QH yesterday, hooked it up today. Titan Attachments QH, bunch of Tractor Supply bushings. BX2680 tractor.

For shits and giggles, I tried to hook it up to my Land Pride box blade. No problem, top hook is mounted almost to the bottom of the holes, one hole from the bottom vacant. I dropped that and went to try my rear PTO snowblower.... That wants it almost to the TOP of the adjustment, if not the very top. I'm unsure how to make both items compatible at this time.... Can get pictures but I always struggle to make them small enough to post here.

 

[OrangeKrush]

This is a great and informative thread!

I just got my QH yesterday, hooked it up today. Titan Attachments QH, bunch of Tractor Supply bushings. BX2680 tractor.

For shits and giggles, I tried to hook it up to my Land Pride box blade. No problem, top hook is mounted almost to the bottom of the holes, one hole from the bottom vacant. I dropped that and went to try my rear PTO snowblower.... That wants it almost to the TOP of the adjustment, if not the very top. I'm unsure how to make both items compatible at this time.... Can get pictures but I always struggle to make them small enough to post here.

My LP rear blade has my top link hook set all the way to bottom holes, right now that’s all I have for my 3pt. Are there no other adjustment holes on your snowblower upper pin or your box blade? Pics would help.. I take mine with my phone and have no problem, I take it you’re on a desktop..

There’s all sorts of attachments to make it work. If all else fails and you can’t get it, at least it’s a winter implement and hopefully you won’t need to change the hook frequently.

 

[LobsterClaw207]

Delete, mistaken post.

 

[Magicman]

Can get pictures but I always struggle to make them small enough to post here.

Download a "resizer" app for your phone which will take care of that problem. I resize mine to either 640X480 or 480X640 depending upon which way they are oriented.

There should also be a way to reduce the picture quality on your phone's settings, but I just use the resizer.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

you should tell your 'smart' phone to take 'smaller' pictures......something called 'email' size, or VGA 'format'.... while you're at it 'lock' orientation as well....

 

[LobsterClaw207]

Look at me go, figuring stuff out!

As you can see, currently hooked to the box blade the top of QH is grabbing what appears to be a bolt with bushing. That portion has supports attached to it, so obviously I don't think I can just remove it.

The snowblower only has a single pin hole.

 

[random]

Here's my land pride scraper:

BTW that label on the side says "QuickHitch Systems"

So the bolt was through the lower hole originally. I raised it to the top hole and adjusted everything a little so it all fit. It originally had a bushing that is currently removed so I have one for shopping comparisons.

I think that just moving that up and getting similar bushings for the lower pins should do it - I need to recheck but I'm pretty sure the lower pin spread matches the QH.

Lobster, that looks a lot like my setup on my scraper.

 

[RBA50]

Change those bolts on the top hook to pins with hitch pins through them. See post #8 in this thread. It is then a 10 second job to reposition the top hook. If you know which implement you are going to need, you can do it before you even get on the tractor. Nearly everyone scraps the bolts in favor of pins.

 

[icehorse]

Sorry to wake up a zombie thread?

I'm trying to widen my 1200 pound mini round baler's bottom pins so I can use my QH. In another thread, folks have recommended that I weld supports onto the baler. That option is still possible, but this discussion makes me think that maybe I could just use really strong / high quality steel 7" or 8" bolts?

I've attached a picture of a "pin" I hacked together with cheap steel. The bolt is 8" x 3/4". The green stuff was just a temporary stand in for a bushing. As you can see, this bolt bent (and it bent within the first few minutes of testing it with the baler attached to the tractor).

Earlier in this thread people were talking about various grades of steel. I've come across three grading systems so far:

Grades like: 4.8, ... 8.8, 10.9 and 12.9
Grades like: A, B, C (ASTM)
Grades like: 5 (maybe that's shorthand for 4.8?)

Anyway, for those of us who aren't materials engineers, are there any hints about which grades would be strong enough? I'd rather error on the side of a higher grade than necessary.

 

[i7win7]

Grades like: 4.8, ... 8.8, 10.9 and 12.9 are metric grade specs.

English grades are 2, 5, 8
#2 usually zink plated, no marks on bolt head
#5 greenish or blue, 3 hash marks on bolt head
#8 goldish color, 6 hash marks on bolt head
bolts are only colored so sales clerks charge correct $$$ when store sells them in bulk, buy the pound

 

[icehorse]

Grades like: 4.8, ... 8.8, 10.9 and 12.9 are metric grade specs.

English grades are 2, 5, 8
#2 usually zink plated, no marks on bolt head
#5 greenish or blue, 3 hash marks on bolt head
#8 goldish color, 6 hash marks on bolt head
bolts are only colored so sales clerks charge correct $$$ when store sells them in bulk, buy the pound

Thanks! Any idea how to convert between these grades and also for example between these grades and something like "ASTM A307" which is something I found following the links to the FASTENAL website mentioned earlier?

 

[B737]

how much longer do the lower pins need to be? you can find Cat I pins that are 6.25" long. That is a lot more leverage but I used these extra long pins on my leaf blower (which 1/3rd the weight of your baler).

3rd photo down

My quick hitch journey, start to finish.

Strap in, this isn't going to be short. Last august I was completing a simple project where I needed box blade, landscape rake, and tiller. All inside of about 3 hours of eachother. It was 97° that day, and instead of enjoying the project, my brain was thinking about the slog of switching...

www.orangetractortalks.com

 

[icehorse]

how much longer do the lower pins need to be? you can find Cat I pins that are 6.25" long. That is a lot more leverage but I used these extra long pins on my leaf blower (which 1/3rd the weight of your baler).

3rd photo down

My quick hitch journey, start to finish.

Strap in, this isn't going to be short. Last august I was completing a simple project where I needed box blade, landscape rake, and tiller. All inside of about 3 hours of eachother. It was 97° that day, and instead of enjoying the project, my brain was thinking about the slog of switching...

www.orangetractortalks.com

On the baler, from outside to outside of the two bottom pin attachment points is 21 1/2".

My QH15 from inside to inside is 27". So the inside of the QH bottom links would start ~2 3/4" from the baler. In other words, there would be a distance of 2 3/4" between the baler and the start of the QH on each side. The steel on the baler looks to be super strong, 3/4" steel.

I just ordered a few Grade 8, 8" x 3/4" bolts from Grainger. I agree it's a lot of leverage, so the question is, will those 8" Grade 8 bolts be strong enough?

Would it increase the strength of the system to add extra nuts between the baler and where the QH connects?

Or... if the bushing was longer / I add enough nuts so that the bushing is tight from end to end, wouldn't that add some strength to the system? Make it harder for the bolt to bend?