Best way to grease zerk fittings

[Orange man hero]

Well, on my new LX2610 (sorry for the bold, seems stuck on it) I did not do the first 10 hour grease job as I was confused as it was a while since I read the loader owners manual or maybe the tractor manual did say 50 hours...anyway! Ready to hit it with my new grease gun and lock on attachment. What is the best way to get at the fittings? Right now the rig is sitting there looking lonely with the bucket down. IT looks like it will hard to get to some of those zerks. Is it better to have the bucket at a certain height for better assess to the zerks? I have around 25 hours and am a little late as soon at it warms up a little (any day now) in Alaska, I plan to do it right.

 

[GeoHorn]

Don’t worry too much about the actual “time” between grease-jobs... it’s really NOT that critical.

Just be certain to follow good safety-practices such as NOT to get beneath unsupported/raised hydraulic loaders/implements.... NOT EVEN FOR A MOMENT!

The “ten hours” between greasings is only a recommendaton....and NO ONE knows if that applies to LOADER USEAGE TIME (like anyone actually keeps track of THAT).... or if it means tachometer-recordation of total engine time. Frankly,...it’s only a RECOMMENDATION and no one should feel neglectful if they only ”average“ the ten-hour ”recommendaton”.

Hope that helps.

 

[Njtool]

Put the bucket in the resting position and grease every one you can. Then raise it up and get the ones that are accessible only when the bucket is raised
I believe there are 6 zirks on each side.

Don’t forget the 2 fittings on each side, right next to the bucket. And if you have a SSQA, there is one on each side to grease the spring.

I can count tomorrow but it’s simple. Every rotation point has a grease fitting.

Oh. And don’t forget the fitting under the tractor for the treadle pedal. You will need a 90 degree adapter for the grease gun. It’s a pain. I ordered a 12” extension for the fitting to extend it to the side, under the door. Then I won’t have to get under the tractor to grease it.

Oh oh. Don’t forget the zirks on the 3 point hitch. One on the top link and one on the tilt link.

I try to grease every 10 hours of bucket useage. Better to grease it more often then not often enough. Grease is cheap.

 

[forky]

I also plan on hitting all my zerks even though my tractor is new. looks like they need a small shot for sure. I picked up some all purpose red tacky grease hoping it is a premium grease....kina overwhelming how many different kinds there are....I stayed away from the cheapest option hoping that was a good decision.

 

[foobert]

I can’t help you with getting the right accessibility, generally, the best for getting the grease where you want it is to relax the tension/compression force on the joint so the fresh grease gets all around the load bearing surface. Also, a little goes a long ways for regular servicing — purging out a wad of “used” gease isn’t doing anymore good than the first portion that hasn’t yet made a mess of the joint.

 

[GeoHorn]

Forky.... whatever grease you used is good grease. Feel good about what you did.

But next time .... use a “moly” grease on your loader zerks. And Use “lithium” grease on everything else, and you’ll be in good shape.

Congrates!

 

[Bmyers]

As it was pointed out, I have the loader/bucket on the ground, grease everything I can reach. I then raise it and grease everything else I can reach that doesn't require me to get under the bucket. Finally I put my in my load cylinder safety stop and get underneath and get anything that is left.

 

[Njtool]

You don’t need to get under the bucket at all. The zirks are designed for easy access. Lifting the arms allows you to get the few remaining zirks. You shouldn’t be under anything.
Start greasing and you will see. It’s no big deal.
Just do it often

 

[RCW]

I admit sometimes I do raise the booms and roll the bucket down to grease it. Makes it go quicker and I don’t have to get down to the zerks. It’s a little BX and I’m tall.

It is better with everything on the ground.

 

[Magicman]

Sometime if a zerk doesn't want to take grease, rotate the joint a bit to reposition the pin/load.

 

[kubotafreak]

Don't forget the ones for the front axle pivot. The front has a square pipe plug that needs to be removed to fill. Fill till you see grease then re-plug. The rear does not have a plug just put a few pumps in. Too much and you will blow the seal and fill up the 4x4 drive tube.

Edit" Actually, that model may not have them there

 

[nbryan]

Just the 2 top zerks on the loader boom pivot pins, at the tractor, need the boom to be lowered to access. When raised, the boom arm hides the zerk inside itself, so I grease those 2 (L&R) with the FEL on the ground, then I raise the loader about 4 feet and use a 4ft piece of 4x4 to solidly prop up the fEL while completing the remainder.
And don't forget to grease the zerk on the brakes pedal pivot under the platform.

 

[nbryan]

I also plan on hitting all my zerks even though my tractor is new. looks like they need a small shot for sure. I picked up some all purpose red tacky grease hoping it is a premium grease....kina overwhelming how many different kinds there are....I stayed away from the cheapest option hoping that was a good decision.

I ended up going with Lucas X-tra Heavy Duty grease for my machine(s). Definitely not cheap, but so far after a few years using it, it's worth it. Got a 10-pack last time, 10-15% cheaper that way online. It really does seem to stick around for a very long time - as sometimes I'm going 20+ hours between grease jobs on the FEL, and and there's always some "old" grease comes out first while gunning the pins. Does not wash off in rain, or even a power wash! Is compatible, or "shear stable" with most other grease types. Usable for pins and bearings alike.

 

[Orange man hero]

Don’t worry too much about the actual “time” between grease-jobs... it’s really NOT that critical.

Just be certain to follow good safety-practices such as NOT to get beneath unsupported/raised hydraulic loaders/implements.... NOT EVEN FOR A MOMENT!

The “ten hours” between greasings is only a recommendaton....and NO ONE knows if that applies to LOADER USEAGE TIME (like anyone actually keeps track of THAT).... or if it means tachometer-recordation of total engine time. Frankly,...it’s only a RECOMMENDATION and no one should feel neglectful if they only ”average“ the ten-hour ”recommendaton”.

Hope that helps.

It does...thanks

 

[FrozenOrange]

I've been remiss in greasing things during the winter here in Alaska. I warm the grease gun indoors then run out and hit as many zircs as I can. Some will not take grease ( probably frozen) . This week we'll see 40's. Yeah spring is here. Time for some serious spring maintenance.
I've found a flexible hose on the grease gun sure does help.

 

[Orange man hero]

I've been remiss in greasing things during the winter here in Alaska. I warm the grease gun indoors then run out and hit as many zircs as I can. Some will not take grease ( probably frozen) . This week we'll see 40's. Yeah spring is here. Time for some serious spring maintenance.
I've found a flexible hose on the grease gun sure does help.

Yes, this has been a cold Bich of a spring...Global warming is a fake as 1 gender or the covid scaredemic or...or...or....

 

[Mossy dell]

Put the bucket in the resting position and grease every one you can. Then raise it up and get the ones that are accessible only when the bucket is raised
I believe there are 6 zirks on each side.

Don’t forget the 2 fittings on each side, right next to the bucket. And if you have a SSQA, there is one on each side to grease the spring.

I can count tomorrow but it’s simple. Every rotation point has a grease fitting.

Oh. And don’t forget the fitting under the tractor for the treadle pedal. You will need a 90 degree adapter for the grease gun. It’s a pain. I ordered a 12” extension for the fitting to extend it to the side, under the door. Then I won’t have to get under the tractor to grease it.

Oh oh. Don’t forget the zirks on the 3 point hitch. One on the top link and one on the tilt link.

I try to grease every 10 hours of bucket useage. Better to grease it more often then not often enough. Grease is cheap.

Thank for these details! I can't find in my owner's manual for my new B2601 the information on greasing the treadle pedal ("speed control pedal"). Under Every 50 Hours, it does list greasing the brake pedals and shows the zerk fitting; also the top link and lifting rod. That's it on the tractor, other than the battery terminals! The loader manual seems to show everything.

Speaking of the speed pedal, if it is greasable I want to be sure to do it because it seems stiff to use in reverse. Am finding it kind of hard to get used to. I asked the dealer and they said there isn't an adjustment but it will loosen as it breaks in.

 

[Njtool]

I’m glad you found everything.

I don’t think the stiffness of the treadle pedal is due to the grease point. On mine, it seems like a very sloppy fit. I would think the stiffness is caused by some adjustment along the linkage. Luckily my pedals aren’t stiff.

Also, I bought a “grease fitting relocation kit” from lock-n-lube to extend my treadle pedal zirk 12”. Now I can grease is without laying in the ground

 

[Orange man hero]

Thank for these details! I can't find in my owner's manual for my new B2601 the information on greasing the treadle pedal ("speed control pedal"). Under Every 50 Hours, it does list greasing the brake pedals and shows the zerk fitting; also the top link and lifting rod. That's it on the tractor, other than the battery terminals! The loader manual seems to show everything.

Speaking of the speed pedal, if it is greasable I want to be sure to do it because it seems stiff to use in reverse. Am finding it kind of hard to get used to. I asked the dealer and they said there isn't an adjustment but it will loosen as it breaks in.

Yes, I think the owners manual leaves a lot to be desired compared to many others I have read. People from Kubota probably read this so I don't feel bad about ranting here. One thing is they need manuals specific to the tractor not 2 of the same like LX2610 and 3310. Then they is the problem of it seems they prioritize the CAB model which I don't think there are many owners compared to the open station models. I get tired of searching for something and constantly have to weed out the CAB pages before I find what I need to find. It almost seems like and ad to sell the CAB models. Yes, the brake zerk is easy. I could not even find the one for the treadle, not even in the manual. Some folks on here that knee jerk saying look in the manual may have never seen a good manual.

I’m glad you found everything.

I don’t think the stiffness of the treadle pedal is due to the grease point. On mine, it seems like a very sloppy fit. I would think the stiffness is caused by some adjustment along the linkage. Luckily my pedals aren’t stiff.

Also, I bought a “grease fitting relocation kit” from lock-n-lube to extend my treadle pedal zirk 12”. Now I can grease is without laying in the ground

That kit sounds good!

 

[nbryan]

Thank for these details! I can't find in my owner's manual for my new B2601 the information on greasing the treadle pedal ("speed control pedal"). Under Every 50 Hours, it does list greasing the brake pedals and shows the zerk fitting; also the top link and lifting rod. That's it on the tractor, other than the battery terminals! The loader manual seems to show everything.

Speaking of the speed pedal, if it is greasable I want to be sure to do it because it seems stiff to use in reverse. Am finding it kind of hard to get used to. I asked the dealer and they said there isn't an adjustment but it will loosen as it breaks in.

No grease zerk on my B2650 speed pedal. I read somewhere to lube it though, so I spray the assembly when needed with some Fluid Film. Same with the loader lever linkage.