Box blade width

[Fastball]

I know its a topic beaten to nigh unto death here...but here goes. Does your box blade have to totally cover your rear wheels? I’m looking a LandPride BB for my L2900 (32hp), and the dealer was pointing me to the 54” model rather than the 60”...saying that a smaller one might be more practical. My tires are just under 60” in width. Am I better off with the 60”?

 

[S-G-R]

He may be trying to sell what he has on hand. My LX 2610 is about 54" wide and I went with a 60" BB so it would be slightly wider and the same width as my bucket.

 

[ken erickson]

I would think that the 60 inch would be a better choice, but with that being said, nothing would prevent you from running a narrower one especially if leaving tire tracks behind in your project is not a concern.


I ran a 48inch KingKutter XB box blade behind my L2501 all last summer. Not my first choice for the tractor but I already had the 48" for my B7100. The work I was doing with it went just fine even with the rear tires outside the box. The XB is a light duty box and I knew enough to not get it in situations where I might tear it up.

 

[UpNorthMI]

I’d go with a 60” to ensure you can do edge areas or drive edges. I would buy a unit with some weight. Bush hog have a SBX range, Woods, Land Pride and Everything Attachments all make a model that is just under 500 lbs in 60" width.

I use a heavy 60” wide box blade on my L3200 HS T with no issues, it performs well.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I run a 5' tiller,offset on my 6' wide tractor. Magicaly the left tire track is where I put the right tires on the next pass.......
before I had it centered, so the tire tracks became the walking paths. 5' beds with packed paths meant less weeds.
I assume you'll be making more than one pass, so a little narrower isn't bad, all depends on what the job is though.

 

[Fastball]

I run a 5' tiller,offset on my 6' wide tractor. Magicaly the left tire track is where I put the right tires on the next pass.......
before I had it centered, so the tire tracks became the walking paths. 5' beds with packed paths meant less weeds.
I assume you'll be making more than one pass, so a little narrower isn't bad, all depends on what the job is though.

Just doing some land rehabilitation, ie smoothing out bumps and ruts, evening out some mild slopes and humps, and driveway maintenanc.

 

[je1279]

60" for that tractor for sure. My Woods 60" is ~515lbs. If you can find one locally at a decent price, go for it. In fact, I purchased mine from a Deere dealership as the less stout Land Pride BB1560 was $250 more expensive and also not in stock.

 

[Fastball]

60" for that tractor for sure. My Woods 60" is ~515lbs. If you can find one locally at a decent price, go for it. In fact, I purchased mine from a Deere dealership as the less stout Land Pride BB1560 was $250 more expensive and also not in stock.

60” Woods runs about $1850 (CDN) here. Land Pride a bit less.

 

[je1279]

60” Woods runs about $1850 (CDN) here. Land Pride a bit less.

I would consider the Land Pride BB2560 then if offered for a better price than the Woods BSS60. Weight is a close second to width when it comes to box blades.

 

[bcp]

I would get the 60. It is only 3 inches wider on each side.

You can always take a smaller cut with a large blade, if necessary.

Bruce

 

[nbryan]

My BB1560 usually has the trailer hitch 3-point adapter and a chain strapped on top so the weight comes in over 500lb as ballast, and is plenty for the largest load the relief valve allows on the loader. IMO it's a perfect fit for my B2650.

 

[old and tired]

Personally, I run a 72" behind my L2800 with R4 tires (ie. poor traction). I do have Top-N-Tilt so I can feather my box when I need to. It worked great building a road down to the creek, although I do have to take smaller bites heading UP the hill.

Worked fine with cutting a side hill down to make a flat trailer spot. Soil here is pretty easy to work so if you have hard clay, 60" should be fine....

 

[Old_Paint]

If you're not digging deep with it, i.e., doing something like a shed excavation, it works beautifully for light levelling jobs behind the wider tires. IF, however, you want to start widening a dig and using that edge of the BB that few ever use (the side plate) to clean up the edge of the dig, then you're gonna have a big problem with the rear tires being in the way. You'll have to turn around and use the FEL to scrape the sides. I found this out the hard way doing my shed build excavation. I was only going down about 8 inches in one corner, but that was deep enough to show me how aggravating it is to not get close to the edge of the 'hole' with the blade. I did a work-around with the FEL to cut back the edge, and I reckon I did OK, but I was trying to do fine cutting to keep the whole thing as level as possible as I went. You're a lot better off if the BB is wider than your rear stance.