LX2610 how to slow loader drop?

[MNVikingsGuy]

Yeah, that valve has just over 2000 PSI on it, so moving the spool ain't gonna be easy. Once the flow starts though, and the pressure is equalized on both sides of the spool, it'll move quite easy. That's built-in stiction from pressure differential that can only be overcome with a pilot. It isn't as bad with hydraulics as it is with air because of obvious lubrication differences, but the principle is the same. The big difference is hydraulic oil doesn't compress, air does.

It's kinda hard to see how much the stick is flexing before movement starts, because you're normally watching the bucket so you don't hit something with it or to make sure you're filling it up. You'd need the eyes of a chameleon lizard to do that, be from a particular state that I kid my sister-in-law about, or maybe two or three cameras so you could synch up the video. You and I have the same valve, same tractor basically, but yours just has a bigger engine. Pretty sure the pressure specs are the same, though. I've locked the gimble to see how much movement there is, and while it restricts movement enough to prevent valve operation, there's still a little wobble at the gimble. Has to be, or it would constantly bind up or jam because of dirt. 3 feet away, that translates to a lot of movement.

Any easy (cost effective) way to add pilots or are they just for bigger machines?

 

[Orange man hero]

Stumbled up on this today.
W.R. Long, Inc. | Comfort Ride

I got this 2610 mostly to load and unload outboard motors....that quick drop business could be expensive I'm starting to think.

 

[Old_Paint]

Any easy (cost effective) way to add pilots or are they just for bigger machines?

Pilot operators are usually built into the valve, on higher end valves anyway. It's actually just a tiny valve that's easier to open because of it's size, that equalizes pressure on the spool to help move it. There are valves out there that don't have nearly as much stiction is the point. But, how much would it jack up the cost of a production tractor? There are normally things like servo amplifiers and such associated with the type of valve I'm thinking of. This one's just mechanical, but I don't know why it can't be made to operate as smoothly as the 3PH lift. I'd be much happier if I had to shove the stick around to make something happen rather than bumping it and having a bucket full of dirt yank the back tires off the ground. That can't be good for the boom or it's cylinders.

As for lifting boat motors, I would think a jib/boom on the 3PH would work better, but I guess that depends on the size of the outboard. The LX2610 is not a big tractor, nor is it an expensive tractor by a lot of measurements. It's possible to quick drop with the 3PH too, if the restrictor valve (down behind your right calf) is wide open. Down speed on the 3PH can be easily adjusted based on the weight of the load, but a heavier load will go faster and a lighter load slower, because the restrictor is for flow only and is pressure sensitive. It's just an orifice. Flow will increase with pressure through the same opening. Since the 3PH uses position regulation for the hydraulic flow to the lift cylinder, it'll be a lot smoother to lift with. Food for thought if you're using it for lifting something like engines or boat motors. Just pay attention to the weight rating of the boom, and make sure you have plenty ballast up front. Most I've seen are good for at least 1000 pounds at the boom point. That far from the tractor, you're gonna have to do a little math, but I'm thinking it's going to seem more like 3000-4000 because of the length of the boom. If you exceed the lift capacity of the 3PH, you'll know soon enough, but odds are, the boom will give up before the lift does. The LA535 is only good for about 1200 lbs (535Kg * 2.2), too, depending on what you've got hanging on the SSQA plate. And that's at the SSQA plate pins, not at the tip of the bucket or whatever you have on the front. The capacity drops very quickly as you get farther out because of the geometry of the boom and it's cylinders.

 

[Old_Paint]

I got this 2610 mostly to load and unload outboard motors....that quick drop business could be expensive I'm starting to think.

Yeah, that WR Long post is the one that I had second thoughts about. That might dampen the surges a little but it's gonna make that lift awfully bouncy, depending on the flow in and out of those accumulators. If you're handling crated outboards, that might just be the cat's pajamas if you're on a fairly smooth work surface. If you're lifting uncrated motors to mount on the transom of a boat, ummm, no, bad idea. You want something you can control the position with a lot better. See my other note about a 3PH boom attachment. If you're bouncing around on rough terrain, I'm not so sure adding those accumulators is a great idea. The better idea on rough ground is to smooth it out first, then go slow until you get it packed back down.

 

[Orange man hero]

Yeah, that WR Long post is the one that I had second thoughts about. That might dampen the surges a little but it's gonna make that lift awfully bouncy, depending on the flow in and out of those accumulators. If you're handling crated outboards, that might just be the cat's pajamas if you're on a fairly smooth work surface. If you're lifting uncrated motors to mount on the transom of a boat, ummm, no, bad idea. You want something you can control the position with a lot better. See my other note about a 3PH boom attachment. If you're bouncing around on rough terrain, I'm not so sure adding those accumulators is a great idea. The better idea on rough ground is to smooth it out first, then go slow until you get it packed back down.

I will be on gravel not too rough as trucks are parked there all the time. Some of the words above are over my newbie head. Are you saying it is better to not use the bucket as it puts the load too far out? Yes, on racks is where they will be put, not often boats too much.

 

[Old_Paint]

If you get pallet forks, you'll be a lot better off than trying to use the bucket. The accumulators I was referring to just attach to the hydraulic lines between the cylinders and the valve. They usually have a bladder inside the steel tank that is charged with pressurized nitrogen, which can compress, unlike hydraulic fluid which was designed for exactly the opposite (not to compress) This gives a little cushioning on the cylinder, but may actually aggravate the bouncing.

You should have a book for the LA535 loader. It will explain the difference in lifting close to the bucket/SSQA pins (where the boom actually attaches to the part you can curl up and down) versus farther out in front of them. If you're not going to be moving loose materials/dirt with it, I'd highly recommend pallet forks. They're lighter (gives you a little more lift capacity) and will fit under things usually so that you can pull them as close as possible to the end of the boom, keeping yourself closer to the full rating of the boom.

 

[Orange man hero]

If you get pallet forks, you'll be a lot better off than trying to use the bucket. The accumulators I was referring to just attach to the hydraulic lines between the cylinders and the valve. They usually have a bladder inside the steel tank that is charged with pressurized nitrogen, which can compress, unlike hydraulic fluid which was designed for exactly the opposite (not to compress) This gives a little cushioning on the cylinder, but may actually aggravate the bouncing.

You should have a book for the LA535 loader. It will explain the difference in lifting close to the bucket/SSQA pins (where the boom actually attaches to the part you can curl up and down) versus farther out in front of them. If you're not going to be moving loose materials/dirt with it, I'd highly recommend pallet forks. They're lighter (gives you a little more lift capacity) and will fit under things usually so that you can pull them as close as possible to the end of the boom, keeping yourself closer to the full rating of the boom.

On two other brands of tractor I looked at I remember the salesman telling me about a round knob right under the middle of the seat in front that adjusted hydro fluid flow?

 

[Orange man hero]

On two other brands of tractor I looked at I remember the salesman telling me about a round knob right under the middle of the seat in front that adjusted hydro fluid flow?

Yea, I am going to try the bolt on hooks on either side mounted just above the heavy metal scarper on the lip of the bucket but on the sides Then cross a chain across from the hooks and have the lift chain in the middle. If this does not work good will get a fork. Found a good adjustable bracket with hook mount by searching on web, but they will not ship it where I am. It mounts on the front of the lip in the middle and costs about 100 bucks. Found some bolt on hooks for $30.

 

[MNVikingsGuy]

Not that it helps now, but if I was buying a machine to move large boat motors around a gravel lot, I would have gotten a used skid steer.

 

[Old_Paint]

On two other brands of tractor I looked at I remember the salesman telling me about a round knob right under the middle of the seat in front that adjusted hydro fluid flow?

For the 3PH lift, yes there is a flow control for lowering, but not for the front end loader. That only controls the drop-rate on the 3 point hitch so you can adjust how fast the implement goes down (on the back, or in the middle if you have a mid PTO and lift). If you have something like my 850 lbs chipper on the 3PH, you really don't want to slam that on the ground. Typically you adjust the flow control for the weight of whatever you have on so that it doesn't jolt you and the tractor when the rear load is lowered by just pushing the lever all the way down, or suddenly stopping the lever. You can actually close that valve all the way to hold the lift in the up position. Not something I'd use for a safety, but perhaps more for transporting something in case you accidently push the lever down somehow. Plan B for lowering rate on the 3PH is that you can slowly push the lever down, but it will still jerk a little if you're not completely smooth with the motion of the lever. Only jerks going down, though. It depends mostly on weight.

Trying to shorten my answers a bit and address one question at a time. My answers are not be-all end-all, but I have had a good bit of hydraulics experience in heavy industry, and have done a lot of motion control with systems that operate on exactly the same principles. Nothing much scarier than a 60000 pound coil of 1400 degree steel balanced on top of a car that can go 20 mph.

 

[Old_Paint]

Not that it helps now, but if I was buying a machine to move large boat motors around a gravel lot, I would have gotten a used skid steer.

Kind of in agreement, particularly one with tracks. Or, an all terrain forklift. But if you're working in a smallish storage facility, maneuverability can turn into an issue very quickly with the AT forklift.

 

[Old_Paint]

Yea, I am going to try the bolt on hooks on either side mounted just above the heavy metal scarper on the lip of the bucket but on the sides Then cross a chain across from the hooks and have the lift chain in the middle. If this does not work good will get a fork. Found a good adjustable bracket with hook mount by searching on web, but they will not ship it where I am. It mounts on the front of the lip in the middle and costs about 100 bucks. Found some bolt on hooks for $30.

I think most in here will advise you not to use anything that attaches to the middle of the bucket, top edge or bottom. You might get away with one hook in the center of the bottom of the bucket, but I prefer staying as close to bent angles and gussets as I can get so that I don't compromise the strength of the bucket. If those motors are on skids or pallets that a fork lift can be used on, you'll be far ahead in that investment. They're not particularly expensive.

Did you get the quick attach bucket? Probably the same as my bucket, 54". Look for my earlier posts and you'll see where I put my grab hooks and some d-rings as well. Keeping them in line with the boom arms will keep bad things away from the boom. ALWAYS use both hooks to lift anything heavy with or you could twist your bucket or boom. If it's heavy enough, curling the bucket to a full dump position and using the d-rings in the bottom of the bucket puts you as close as you can get to the curl pivot pins, which will give you the maximum lifting capacity of your FEL. I've got the bolt-on hooks and d-rings. If I tear one of those off my bucket, I was being stupid. I don't think welded ones would be any better because the bolted ones distribute the force on the bucket sheet, and don't affect the annealing at the attachment point.

As always, no matter what you lift with, lift with CARE. Center of Gravity is friendlier if it's lower. Just make sure you keep it in the centerline of the tractor.

 

[Orange man hero]

Not that it helps now, but if I was buying a machine to move large boat motors around a gravel lot, I would have gotten a used skid steer.

Yes, I thought out the options. Was big on forklift for a while, but my ground is too rough except for the out of this world expense for the rough terrain type forklift. Skid-steers are very expensive also especially for a newer good condition one. Plus I do have a half-azz lawn I don't want to make look worse than it is already. One guy I know has a WWII big forklift that still runs but..... I pan to make this tractor work somehow or other.

 

[Orange man hero]

Got cha. I won't ever be approaching the limit of the loader, in fact most motors are just a few hundred pounds or even less. Already go the hardwear and hooks for the loader so will try that to save some $ before I get a fork.

 

[BigG]

You might use one of these on the tractor you have now. To make an off road fork lift with good brakes and no clutch.

http://edwards-equip.com/e.forklifts/

Just an idea but I understand there must be a way to improve the FEL that you already hav

 

[Orange man hero]

You might use one of these on the tractor you have now. To make an off road fork lift with good brakes and no clutch.

http://edwards-equip.com/e.forklifts/

Just an idea but I understand there must be a way to improve the FEL that you already hav

Looks like some good options. Titan has the removeable bolt on type forks to put on the bucket but then the whole rig will be so long.

 

[BigG]

Looks like some good options. Titan has the removeable bolt on type forks to put on the bucket but then the whole rig will be so long.

Look down the page to the mini lift TT3600

 

[Orange man hero]

Look down the page to the mini lift TT3600

I looked for it could not find it and gave up...IT's OK don't want to spend more $ anyway...

 

[Hot Rod]

I have to agree with Henro, my B2620 with a bucket full of dirt, when I push the lever all the way forward it does not come down rapidly enough to shake the tractor, it actually comes down smoothly, I believe you have a mechanical problem.

 

[Newaterman]

The only times I’ve had issues with my LX2610 bucket or grapple dropping too quickly is when it’s near max load and max height. Even then it’s mostly operator error.