barbed fitting for cab heater BX2370
- Thread starter BX'r
- Start date
You may want to look at installing into the block it self. There should be plugs on the engine somewhere.
Less hose clamping to go bad at the worst time.
Less hose clamping to go bad at the worst time.
85Hokie
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
Something like :
https://www.fillernecksupply.com/1-1-8-in-line-radiator-coolant-fuel-hose-tee-adapter-fitting-30mm/
then adapt up to the 5/8" barb
Or... you’ll have to make one up by using reducer-bushings ...so you’ll be buying at least 4 items... the 1-1/8 ”T”... two 1-1/8 to 5/8 reducers..... and two 5/8 barbs.
I may have found one a little larger that might work.
Y-Fitting 1 1/4" Radiator Hose to 5/8" Heater Hose - Universal Parts Inc. | High Performance Automotive Cooling | Humboldt, IA
Y-Fitting 1 1/4" Radiator Hose to 5/8" Heater Hose - Universal Parts Inc. | High Performance Automotive Cooling | Humboldt, IA
Doesn't the BX2370 have a small bypass hose? Some of us used that as a connection point rather than mess with the big hoses.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
for $11, I'd take that 1-1/8 inline T, drill the 1/4NPT port out to 1/2"NPT. then screw in a 5/8"barb-1/2NPT adapter.
it'd only take at most a 1/2hr to modify. though someone muust make/sell such a piece......
it'd only take at most a 1/2hr to modify. though someone muust make/sell such a piece......
The lower hose is the suction side of the engine to the radiator. I suggest that if you want to make your life easy, then do what I did in 2004, and remove the bypass hose, and purchase 2 right angle hoses of the correct diameter, and install that on one side of where the bypass hose was located. Using the other right angle hose, put that on the other side of where the bypass hose went. Then purchase a plastic adapter at the auto parts store that will bump the smaller hose up to the 3/4" heater hose. The engine will never know what you did, and you will have more than enough hot water flowing through the heater core. In the morning, I will get a picture of my BX22 with the heater hoses installed as I have described.
Last weekend, I installed the heater hoses in my new BX23S cab heater, and I did it the way that Curtis / Kubota said to do it in the instructions. It was just short of impossible to get the tee installed into the lower hose, since there isn't much of a straight section of the lower hose. So far, no heat, since the BX23S engine is colder than my ex. My BX22 comes up to temperature in less than 10 minutes, and the BX23S doesn't even open the thermostat after 1/2 hour of running!
Yes, I didn't explain it clearly enough, but as I said, it is the suction side. It actually goes from the radiator to the water pump. Some of our older members might remember when the lower hose had a metal spring in them, to keep them from collapsing. Today, the lower hoses are more reinforced, and the spring is no longer needed.
Here are the pictures of how I hooked up the heater in my BX22 (top picture), and my new BX23S (2nd & 3rd pictures. On the 23S, I used the instructions as provided by Kubota, and it was a difficult of a job, because the lower heater hose doesn't have much of a straight section to get the tee inserted into.
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DR;
Thanks for taking the time and making the effort to post the pictures.
The hose at the thermostat housing is what I had planned to use but I'll have to look at the lower hose below the thermostat housing , not sure what I have but I'll take a look and report back.
I have some trees to deal with today so I'll try for tomorrow.
Any chance you have an air lock in your BX23S preventing coolant flow?
Thanks for taking the time and making the effort to post the pictures.
The hose at the thermostat housing is what I had planned to use but I'll have to look at the lower hose below the thermostat housing , not sure what I have but I'll take a look and report back.
I have some trees to deal with today so I'll try for tomorrow.
Any chance you have an air lock in your BX23S preventing coolant flow?
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
nice pix, which 'kit' did you use for the bx23s ? pretty sure it'll get cold again next winter.....brrrrr
I had a Kubota deluxe cab installed, but I told them that I would do the heater lines myself. Saved myself 3 hours of labor, although they did install the factory heater instead of my receiving it in the box and installing it myself. I wanted to install a block heater, so I knew that I would be draining the block, and installing the heater lines at the same time. So far, the tractor hasn't gotten hot enough for the heater to work. My BX22 would get hot in less than 10 minutes. I think that my thermostat might be stuck open, but I hate the thought of draining it down again, just to check it. I will know better once I start working the tractor later this spring.
BX'r, your third pic clearly shows the short "bypass hose" on the thermostat/pump housing. When I added a heater to my home made cab, that bypass hose was removed and the heater hoses replaced the bypass hose connections. I ran the same size hose all the way up to the cab and then upsized with barb fittings to the 5/8" hose into the heater itself. Much easier to run the small size hose from the pump to the heater and there was still plenty of circulation for the heater to function properly.
When my cab is removed in the spring the bypass hose just gets reinstalled and all is well until the next winter.