Shopping for Snow Blowing Turbo Tractor - LX3310?

[MNVikingsGuy]

Have you looked at John Deere? Check out the 2038R, although it might be more than you want to spend I’m not sure.

[Just a joke, I don't care about tractor color or pickup brand]

 

[greg86z28]

 

[i7win7]

I hate the front blade because:
1. the blade it's self does not float
2. instead of skid shoes it should have wheels like highway plows
3. using FEL float the front axle raises instead of the plow
4. seems to work best if raised 2" from ground and clean up w/rear blade
5. angle front blade, curl has to be used to re-level it

Benefit of rear blade:
1. 3pt lift arms float (lift) easier than FEL
2. 3pt lift arms float independently - follows ground contour better
3. blade can be reversed and push more snow in reverse
4. angle rear blade, independent float of lift arms provides some compensation for blade level.

 

[ChrisO83]

I would consider a real 4x4 truck with a plow. Maybe a jeep or dodge M37. Thats serious business you are describing. You might need to spend $50,000 on a suitably outfitted Kubota tractor. You could find an older plow truck for probably under $10,000. You could always paint it orange. Just my opinion based on what hillbillies do here in the mountains of Southwestern Pennsylvania. The folks with money hire it done. Eighteen inches of snow near Seven Springs resort within the last week. An unusual occurrence.

I do have a plow on my Honda P500 that does a fantastic job when the snow is 6" or less. More than that it will work but takes a lot more time and effort, not something i want to depend on when we get a 12" dumping or more. But because of the topography of my property, the bottom line is I still need a blower as eventually there is no place for the snow to go unless it's blown. Since I need a tractor to handle a decent blower I might as well equip it with a plow for the heavy days.
I'm still looking at other options but, hey, when the wife says I need to get a enclosed tractor, I'm not going to argue with her, .
C

 

[ChrisO83]

The Aquiline chains are premium chains and ideal for gravel driveways but will be very damaging to asphalt. I would not go that route if you plan to have your driveway paved.

FWIW, no tractor tires are designed for snow so none are very good therein. That said, R4s are the worst, followed by R1s. Turf tires are considerably better than either. The jury is still out on the new R14s but I expect them to be nearly as good as turfs, perhaps even better.

SDT

Spoke to my local Kubota dealer today about tires and chains. For our area he is recommending the R14's then maybe the R1's. But if I end up needing chains then the R1's don't seem to help the chains as well due to the deep tread/groves. The chain tends to drop below the tread and becomes ineffective. He suggestion is start with the R14's then add chains if needed. I'll probably go with a standard chains as the Aquilines are very spendy and maybe even an over kill. Besides, it won't cost me much to dump the chains when the asphalt fairy shows up a gives me a new driveway, .
C

 

[rAzkid]

I have the R14 tires on my LX3310 and they are very good in the snow. I have a rear blower on mine and recently posted in the Fabrication and Customization forum how I mounted an inside rear view mirror so I don't have to turn in the seat when using the blower. The two outside mirrors work great to see the outside edges of the blower and the inside mirror allows me to see directly behind the tractor.

 

[doublebass73]

Spoke to my local Kubota dealer today about tires and chains. For our area he is recommending the R14's then maybe the R1's. But if I end up needing chains then the R1's don't seem to help the chains as well due to the deep tread/groves. The chain tends to drop below the tread and becomes ineffective. He suggestion is start with the R14's then add chains if needed. I'll probably go with a standard chains as the Aquilines are very spendy and maybe even an over kill. Besides, it won't cost me much to dump the chains when the asphalt fairy shows up a gives me a new driveway, .
C

The primary function of my Kubota is snow removal. I have R1's with with diamond pattern studded chains from tirechain.com and they work great. As you can see my tractor is only 2WD and my driveway is hilly. I have no issues with traction using my 3 point blower. My driveway is asphalt and I have no issues with damage to the asphalt from the chains either. Also, if you decide to get a 3 point hitch snowblower
do yourself a favor and get a pull type snowblower so you don't have to drive in reverse the whole time.

 

[BobInSD]

How much snow does it take until you can't get the tractor through the pile so the pull-behind can deal with it? Are there issues with the compacted strips from the tractor running on the snow before the blower gets a chance at it? I like the concept, but can picture getting stuck in the barn and unable to make that first cut. It would take a lot more snow to maroon me if I can lead with the snowblower.

 

[PaulL]

With a rear mount snowblower you can keep the FEL on. I feel like you're doing something wrong with your tractor if snow can stop a tractor with a FEL from moving forwards.

 

[BobInSD]

If I backed the tractor into the barn I could grab the first bucket full of snow. Where would I put it so that I could pick up the 2nd bucket?

With my Farmall M I could fill up that 9 ft bucket such that I couldn't back up, even with chains.

Not saying I regularly get enough snow to get a 4WD Kubota stuck, but I've had storms where I wouldn't be able to the the two wheel drive tractors (JD 3020, Ford 4000) out of the barn if I couldn't lead with the blower. I'm not saying the pull-behind is a bad idea, I'm asking how much wind-drifted snow it'd take till you couldn't use the pull behind.

 

[doublebass73]

How much snow does it take until you can't get the tractor through the pile so the pull-behind can deal with it? Are there issues with the compacted strips from the tractor running on the snow before the blower gets a chance at it? I like the concept, but can picture getting stuck in the barn and unable to make that first cut. It would take a lot more snow to maroon me if I can lead with the snowblower.

I haven't gotten stuck yet. The most I've dealt with at once is 2 feet so your mileage may vary.

There are no issues with compacted snow from the tractor running over it, that's an often repeated myth by people who have never owned a pull type snowblower. The tractor goes through the snow and a clean path is left behind the snowblower.

 

[biathlonguy]

Hello All,

I'm looking for a tractor with the primary use of snow blowing and plowing.
I am located at 8000 ft elevation in the Utah snow country (Wasatch Mts.). We have close to 300+yrds of road and roughly a third acre of area that will need plowing. We have some hills/grades but are not very steep, 4-10% grade.

This would be my first tractor, so there is a lot I need to learn, but I have a little experience using skid steers with blowers that have done a great job on the snow.

I'm looking for a front snow blower and, if effective, may also run a plow blade on the rear along with the blower. I haven't run a blade behind a tractor as yet so I don't know if that is worth pursuing. Of course a front loader would also be needed. Also, I hope to have the enclosed cab.

Because of our elevation it has been recommended that we look at a turbo charge unit. Of course, at first, the Kubota dealer was recommending a L6060 but once we were clear on my budget he settled on the LX3310.

It seems the LX3310 might be a good fit but there are so many different units that Kubota makes that it is a daunting task to figure out which one would be the best for my budget and needs.

I'm looking for input on comparable models, blower and blade recommendations, tires/chains, and anything else that might be important that I have overlooked.

I'm sure there are questions that will need to be asked.

Your help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
ChrisO

Chris,

I'm in a similar situation to you (and also live in Utah). I have 10 acres in the Wasatch Mountains as well. We are only at 6,600 feet though, and usually have 3 to 6 feet of snow on the ground (usually 6-18 inches per storm). My research and talking with dealers and an excavator friend has brought me to the same decision I think you are making.

I just received two local bids and working out a few minor details before placing an order. I'm going with the LX3310 because of turbo which largely resolves the loss of horse power at altitude. I'm also choosing a front snowblower (LX2980). While I have spent two years researching this decision and watching others in the same situation.

I do have a neighbor that has a L6060 (with cab) and front blower--that is an amazing machine. There is a cabbed L5740 (lightly used for sale on KSL--a local online site) right now too. He does a lot of work for those in our cabin community.

Good luck with your decision!

biathlonguy (John)

 

[biathlonguy]

Hello All,

I'm looking for a tractor with the primary use of snow blowing and plowing.
I am located at 8000 ft elevation in the Utah snow country (Wasatch Mts.). We have close to 300+yrds of road and roughly a third acre of area that will need plowing. We have some hills/grades but are not very steep, 4-10% grade.

This would be my first tractor, so there is a lot I need to learn, but I have a little experience using skid steers with blowers that have done a great job on the snow.

I'm looking for a front snow blower and, if effective, may also run a plow blade on the rear along with the blower. I haven't run a blade behind a tractor as yet so I don't know if that is worth pursuing. Of course a front loader would also be needed. Also, I hope to have the enclosed cab.

Because of our elevation it has been recommended that we look at a turbo charge unit. Of course, at first, the Kubota dealer was recommending a L6060 but once we were clear on my budget he settled on the LX3310.

It seems the LX3310 might be a good fit but there are so many different units that Kubota makes that it is a daunting task to figure out which one would be the best for my budget and needs.

I'm looking for input on comparable models, blower and blade recommendations, tires/chains, and anything else that might be important that I have overlooked.

I'm sure there are questions that will need to be asked.

Your help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
ChrisO

I forgot to add that I'm going with the R4 tires. I have no lawn to worry about. My choice was based on tire width, use of chains, and wear. The R4 and R14 have more width--surface area for traction. The R1 and R4 are made from a harder compound and should last longer (I just saw a lx3310 with R14s with under 150 hours and the front tires need to be replaced). Additionally, I think the R14s and R4s will work better with chains (in that order).

 

[BobInSD]

...There is a cabbed L5740 (lightly used for sale on KSL--a local online site) right now too. He does a lot of work for those in our cabin community.

L5740 is turbo and pre-pollution ridiculousness. Mine, with the HST, can move a lot of snow. I'm nowhere near there, but am curious to the details on this one.

 

[biathlonguy]

L5740 is turbo and pre-pollution ridiculousness. Mine, with the HST, can move a lot of snow. I'm nowhere near there, but am curious to the details on this one.

looks like a nice one:

Kubota L5740 hst

$34,999.00 Kubota L5740 hst for sale in South Jordan, UT on KSL Classifieds. View a wide selection of Farm Equipment and other great items on KSL Classifieds.

classifieds.ksl.com

 

[cthomas]

I have a LX2610 with cab, and the front mounted snow blower(residential 63 inch) running the R14's tires and had no issues getting stuck with it(even with missing the driveway and putting it in the 1 foot drop ditch). I would definitely recommend the winter fronts if going with the LX3310((and even I want them for my Lx2610)) as at thirty degrees the heater rocks(think blowing snow in your t-shirt), but, at minus twenty degrees it is worthless). Also with emissions on that tractor the exhaust has to be run hot to burn off the soot/particulates. Work at a dealership and dealt with a bunch of idiots that own a diesel truck but did not put the winter front on(or bra) because of laziness or do not like the looks of it(they really didn't like be speed limited due to emission issue)((engine/exhaust too cold to burn off soot/particulates.))

 

[biathlonguy]

Spoke to my local Kubota dealer today about tires and chains. For our area he is recommending the R14's then maybe the R1's. But if I end up needing chains then the R1's don't seem to help the chains as well due to the deep tread/groves. The chain tends to drop below the tread and becomes ineffective. He suggestion is start with the R14's then add chains if needed. I'll probably go with a standard chains as the Aquilines are very spendy and maybe even an over kill. Besides, it won't cost me much to dump the chains when the asphalt fairy shows up a gives me a new driveway, .
C

Make any decisions yet? I placed an order for an LX3310 since I wasn't in a hurry to get it--waiting for snow to melt and mud to dry up. Valley (Heber) and Bonneville (SLC) both have an LX3310 in stock--I think both cab and ROPS model.

I did go with the R4 tires, with chains I think it will be good enough traction for the winter.