Installed some rear LED Work Lights on my LX2610 w/ Cab. Looking to add the switch for them, but looking to get matching switches that goes along with the front and distinguishes them separately along with some sort of on/off light indication. Kubota OEM switch is like $60 which is CRAZY!!! for just a switch. Want to reuse the existing female harness connection vs reworking that end of it. Below is a pic of the back end of the existing switch for the front LED Work Light and a pic of the opposite connection end that I'm trying to reuse. Any help is much appreciated.
LX2610 w/ Cab - Light Switch for Worklights
- Thread starter bnauty255
- Start date
I agree that you're better off mating to the existing connectors rather than pulling pins. You can make a short interface cable to do the connections. Connectors will be automotive / motorcycle / sports type.
If you have the blanks that go in the switch cut-outs, then can modify to mount whatever switch that you want. If the blanks are rubber / plastic, then add material for stiffness.
I would see if the Kubota switch has a manufacturer's number or mark - that switch is not made by Kubota but is purchased. Then detective work to match the switch.
If you have the blanks that go in the switch cut-outs, then can modify to mount whatever switch that you want. If the blanks are rubber / plastic, then add material for stiffness.
I would see if the Kubota switch has a manufacturer's number or mark - that switch is not made by Kubota but is purchased. Then detective work to match the switch.
je1279
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
LX2610 w/ 60" MMM, LP 72" Snow Plow, EA Wicked 55" Grapple, and Woods 60" BB
Ebay has a pigtail that may work for you.
Kubota Type Work Light Switch Connector Pigtail B and L Series tractors | eBay
This is the hard to find connector with pigtail for adding light switch to your Kubota. Light Switch Connector for wiring harness on Kubota B and L Series tractors and may fit others. Having trouble finding the electrical connector or pigtail your looking for?.
www.ebay.com
Cstock5468
New member
Equipment
L3560 with loader, BH92, LP post hole auger, LP box scraper, Front PTO snow blow
L3560 Cab - I installed new LED work lights to replace the factory installed front and back work lights, so the respective switches were already there, just had to wire the new lights (used splice and crimps, weather sealed). They made a big difference in lumens and brightness. I also added front and back LED Light bars using a mounting bar I purchased from Specialty Repairs in Canada. The mounting plates went on well and were simple. I only had to drill mounting holes in them to mate with the LED Light bars i purchased (from northern tool). I did not really want to add another relay and circuit for these light bars unless necessary. I was able to use the existing wiring (with relay circuit) for the rear defogger option (i did not get or have needed). The switch for that option was blanked out up in the head liner next to the A/C Heater controls. I had to purchase a standard relay (local auto parts store, had specs from electrical schematics I had for tractor) and plug it in to the installed relay box, I had to get out the voltmeter to ”Re-orient” the leads in the existing/installed male plug for the defogger circuit on top of cab (had to remove roof) to line up with the Kubota light switch female end I purchased (yes paid close to 60$). I took a first cut at this on the circuit print out and found that one or two of the colors noted were not correct on which side of the relay they were. I was able to mount the light switch with some cutting in head liner (with dremel) switch frame where the defogger blank was located (light switch had a few profile bumps to account for. It now works well and the switch lights up when engaged. One Issue for some may be that both front and back light bars are on same circuit, but that works for me. In addition, the circuit will only energize when the ignition is engaged (as the defogger was set up). So, turning off the tractor and having these on, will not happen. When you have an attachment on front and working in dim light or dark conditions, the tractor headlights and work lamps really did not cut it for me. I did have to drill a hole in the front and back metal top frames to get the light bar wires through to connect to the existing defogger wiring downstream from the switch. Was able to get the right sized rubber grommets to keep the wires and drilled holes weather sealed. Long way to say, go with existing wiring when you can, it will be worth the cost of the switch when you look at the work to wire a new plug set up. pics are of all light bars and work light LEDs at dusk after install (and before zip tying rear wires up). BTW, when i added up the amperage draws on the Light bar LEDs to the work light LEDs, they were under the designed work light circuit load, so, i could have added the light bars to the existing front and back work light circuit. I felt more comfortable with having the added amperage requirements go through their own relay and fuse. Next project may be changing the lollipop hazard lights as all the trees around my work areas liKe to smack the lenses off. I have to “fold” them in when working along edges for forested areas or on trails.
Orange1forme
Active member
Equipment
B2650 HSDC, filled tires, wheel spacers, B2728B , LA534A FEL, 3rd valve kit
That is for the lights, not the switch.Ebay has a pigtail that may work for you.
Kubota Type Work Light Switch Connector Pigtail B and L Series tractors | eBay
This is the hard to find connector with pigtail for adding light switch to your Kubota. Light Switch Connector for wiring harness on Kubota B and L Series tractors and may fit others. Having trouble finding the electrical connector or pigtail your looking for?.www.ebay.com
Orange1forme
Active member
Equipment
B2650 HSDC, filled tires, wheel spacers, B2728B , LA534A FEL, 3rd valve kit
I added the lights to the rear of my B2650 cab and was in the same spot. After thinking about the time and effort to make an aftermarket switch work, I bought the OEM switch.
Could I do it, sure!! But what is my time worth, yours may vary.
I also removed all the factory ends from the light connections and replaced them with standard male/female spade connections with marine heat shrink.
This makes future light changes simple, in my opinion. Also, at the time nobody could find an OEM connector, like the one mentioned on ebay.
Could I do it, sure!! But what is my time worth, yours may vary.
I also removed all the factory ends from the light connections and replaced them with standard male/female spade connections with marine heat shrink.
This makes future light changes simple, in my opinion. Also, at the time nobody could find an OEM connector, like the one mentioned on ebay.
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You probably spent upwards of $30,000 on that tractor. Bite the bullet.
Just posting this for others that might find this thread. The light switches that Kubota uses are made by Carling. I am not certain, but I believe that they are the " Carling Technologies V-SERIES BK CARLING SWITCH", and that switch is available with a lot of different covers that snap on. Mostly used in the marine industry. I found this information in the installation instructions for the BX23S dealer installed cab.
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