Analysis Paralysis.....Need Help

[DME1234]

If you need to cut grass fast and save time get a commercial ZTR.

A SCUT or CUT is like a swiss army knife...does a little of everything but exceeds at nothing. I'd keep the MF165 for the bigger work or get a bigger loader tractor and a ZTR to save on time wasted mowing grass. Trying to consolidate to one machine will leave you disappointed for all jobs.

My experience has been its better to buy the right tool for the job, skimping or cheaping out ends up costing you more in wasted time and effort and you still end up getting two machines in the long run.

I appreciate your insight!

 

[DME1234]

According to the Op Man, the maximum single shaft brush cutter for a B2601 is 450 lbs and 48 inch. The RCR1860 weighs 599 lbs.
The B2650/3350 Op Man says 48 inch, 500 lbs.

Yeah I think my best and safest option is to sell the RCR1860 and purchase a cutter that the tractor was designed to run. That also frees me up to really consider the smaller B2601 without allowing my current cutter to sway my decision. It is too insignificant to have that be my deciding factor on a big purchase like this.

 

[DME1234]

Regardless of whether I choose the B2601 or the LX2610, I plan on getting turf tires. What do you all think about loading the rear tires? Obviously for loader work it would be the correct choice, but if I am using the tractor for mowing primarily and loader work secondary, would I be ok not loading the tires and just using rear ballast on the 3 point when I’m using the loader? My concerns with loading the tires are the additional weight and compaction/damage to the soil. On the other hand, my concerns with not loading the tires are stability and safety. What have your experiences been?

 

[je1279]

Regardless of whether I choose the B2601 or the LX2610, I plan on getting turf tires. What do you all think about loading the rear tires? Obviously for loader work it would be the correct choice, but if I am using the tractor for mowing primarily and loader work secondary, would I be ok not loading the tires and just using rear ballast on the 3 point when I’m using the loader? My concerns with loading the tires are the additional weight and compaction/damage to the soil. On the other hand, my concerns with not loading the tires are stability and safety. What have your experiences been?

I would seriously consider the R14 tires. They won't tear up your lawn unless it's wet and they offer far more traction than the turf tires. Either way I would load the tires from a safety perspective unless you feel that would cause issues with soil compaction. I have both loaded tires and a ballast box on mine and I wouldn't consider anything less when doing loader work.

 

[PaulL]

If you need to cut grass fast and save time get a commercial ZTR.

A SCUT or CUT is like a swiss army knife...does a little of everything but exceeds at nothing. I'd keep the MF165 for the bigger work or get a bigger loader tractor and a ZTR to save on time wasted mowing grass. Trying to consolidate to one machine will leave you disappointed for all jobs.

My experience has been its better to buy the right tool for the job, skimping or cheaping out ends up costing you more in wasted time and effort and you still end up getting two machines in the long run.

I see this opinion here a lot. It's a valid opinion, but it isn't one I subscribe to. I have one machine and use it for everything. And it does everything I need just fine. I have nowhere to store another machine, and no desire to maintain another machine. I like my tractor, and whilst it may not be perfect at mowing, it sure eats the ride on mower I used to have, and the ride on mowers of any of the neighbours.

I've never had a zero turn, so I'll accept the claim that they mow faster, although it doesn't quite make sense to me unless you had a lot of obstacles. But if I had a zero turn, I wouldn't have a tractor at all, and so I'd be giving up a lot - the FEL, the forks, the chipper, the ability to pull the boat and the trailer.

It's all horses for courses, if you've decided you don't want a zero turn, then nothing wrong with deciding you'd like to get a smaller tractor that both mows and does tractor jobs.

 

[PaulL]

Regardless of whether I choose the B2601 or the LX2610, I plan on getting turf tires. What do you all think about loading the rear tires? Obviously for loader work it would be the correct choice, but if I am using the tractor for mowing primarily and loader work secondary, would I be ok not loading the tires and just using rear ballast on the 3 point when I’m using the loader? My concerns with loading the tires are the additional weight and compaction/damage to the soil. On the other hand, my concerns with not loading the tires are stability and safety. What have your experiences been?

I have a B2601. I have turf tires. I haven't loaded them. I use the loader and have never had an issue (I have a ballast box).

To my mind a ballast box is better for loader work than loaded tires, as the weight is all behind the rear axle - it lifts weight off the front axle in a way that loaded tires don't. If you have the turning space then an implement is also fine ballast (a ballast box lets you get into smaller spaces). That rotary cutter would be excellent ballast.

I don't like the idea of loaded tires on the lawn. I also take the loader off when I mow, and it makes a big difference to how the front of the tractor feels - a lot less weight over the front axle. I would expect loaded tires to compact the lawn significantly more.

I have no current issues with stability. I have a roadside that I mow with a couple of steep banks that must be mowed along the side of the bank. They feel super uncomfortable to me (read - it took me a few goes to build up the courage to drive along it). I stop at the steepest part and rock the tractor every time, because it feels so uncomfortable to me and I worry it'll go over. The tractor never shows the slightest sign of tipping. So, in short, my testicular fortitude is far more of a limiting factor than the tractor's capability. I guess that could be different for every person, and it depends on what it is you want to do. But so long as you take things slowly when you have a load on, or on a very steep sideways slope, I don't think loaded tires are needed.

My other main observation is that you can always load tires later if it turns out that there's something you want to do that you can't do. It's inexpensive. It's harder to unload them if you do load them then change your mind. And if you do load them, you'll never know if you might have been fine without loading them.

To me the big downsides of loaded tires are ability to change and repair tires, and not being able to remove the weight when you don't want it. For a landscape tractor I think the latter is quite important. Having said that, people have been loading tractor tires for decades (or more), so it's not like doing so would be a bad choice. I just don't think it's needed for anything I personally do with my tractor.

 

[DME1234]

I have a B2601. I have turf tires. I haven't loaded them. I use the loader and have never had an issue (I have a ballast box).

To my mind a ballast box is better for loader work than loaded tires, as the weight is all behind the rear axle - it lifts weight off the front axle in a way that loaded tires don't. If you have the turning space then an implement is also fine ballast (a ballast box lets you get into smaller spaces). That rotary cutter would be excellent ballast.

I don't like the idea of loaded tires on the lawn. I also take the loader off when I mow, and it makes a big difference to how the front of the tractor feels - a lot less weight over the front axle. I would expect loaded tires to compact the lawn significantly more.

I have no current issues with stability. I have a roadside that I mow with a couple of steep banks that must be mowed along the side of the bank. They feel super uncomfortable to me (read - it took me a few goes to build up the courage to drive along it). I stop at the steepest part and rock the tractor every time, because it feels so uncomfortable to me and I worry it'll go over. The tractor never shows the slightest sign of tipping. So, in short, my testicular fortitude is far more of a limiting factor than the tractor's capability. I guess that could be different for every person, and it depends on what it is you want to do. But so long as you take things slowly when you have a load on, or on a very steep sideways slope, I don't think loaded tires are needed.

My other main observation is that you can always load tires later if it turns out that there's something you want to do that you can't do. It's inexpensive. It's harder to unload them if you do load them then change your mind. And if you do load them, you'll never know if you might have been fine without loading them.

To me the big downsides of loaded tires are ability to change and repair tires, and not being able to remove the weight when you don't want it. For a landscape tractor I think the latter is quite important. Having said that, people have been loading tractor tires for decades (or more), so it's not like doing so would be a bad choice. I just don't think it's needed for anything I personally do with my tractor.

This is exactly what I was hoping to hear, and you make an excellent point that it is easier to load them after the fact than it is to unload them. My closest dealer automatically loads the rear tires whenever a customer purchases a loader, so it got me worrying that I was going to be making the tractor very unstable if I didn't load them. I'm glad to hear that you actually have the setup I was thinking of and it is working. Thank you for sharing!

 

[Crash277]

This is exactly what I was hoping to hear, and you make an excellent point that it is easier to load them after the fact than it is to unload them. My closest dealer automatically loads the rear tires whenever a customer purchases a loader, so it got me worrying that I was going to be making the tractor very unstable if I didn't load them. I'm glad to hear that you actually have the setup I was thinking of and it is working. Thank you for sharing!

my machine is my ”do everything” machine. I didn’t get the tires loaded when I got it. I eventually loaded them myself using RV anti-freeze, I have a section of lawn thats wet until mid summer and even walking on it sometimes leaves footprints. i remove my loader when i pull my 5’ finishing mower, I got r4 tires installed and they don’t leave any marks In the lawn where my Ariens garden tractor didnt also leave marks. When I am using my loader I don’t always have my backhoe on. Usually it’s my box blade, which is why I decided to load the tires.

 

[michigander]

I'm running turf tires loaded at least back blade on back also when using the loader. Grass I mow isn't golf course green smooth. The B sits rather high in the air IMO loaded helps with stability even when mowing.

 

[je1279]

As others have mentioned, definitely remove the loader when mowing and loaded rear tires will improve stability on hilly areas. That having been said, always try to mow up and down rather than side to side.

 

[DME1234]

I'm running turf tires loaded at least back blade on back also when using the loader. Grass I mow isn't golf course green smooth. The B sits rather high in the air IMO loaded helps with stability even when mowing.

My lawn is nowhere near perfect either, and it has hills, so it sounds like loading the tires would be my safest route. Have you had any issues with the loaded turf tires doing damage to the ground?

 

[DME1234]

my machine is my ”do everything” machine. I didn’t get the tires loaded when I got it. I eventually loaded them myself using RV anti-freeze, I have a section of lawn thats wet until mid summer and even walking on it sometimes leaves footprints. i remove my loader when i pull my 5’ finishing mower, I got r4 tires installed and they don’t leave any marks In the lawn where my Ariens garden tractor didnt also leave marks. When I am using my loader I don’t always have my backhoe on. Usually it’s my box blade, which is why I decided to load the tires.

Thank you, this helps a lot!

 

[mikester]

I see this opinion here a lot. It's a valid opinion, but it isn't one I subscribe to. I have one machine and use it for everything. And it does everything I need just fine. I have nowhere to store another machine, and no desire to maintain another machine. I like my tractor, and whilst it may not be perfect at mowing, it sure eats the ride on mower I used to have, and the ride on mowers of any of the neighbours.

I've never had a zero turn, so I'll accept the claim that they mow faster, although it doesn't quite make sense to me unless you had a lot of obstacles. But if I had a zero turn, I wouldn't have a tractor at all, and so I'd be giving up a lot - the FEL, the forks, the chipper, the ability to pull the boat and the trailer.

It's all horses for courses, if you've decided you don't want a zero turn, then nothing wrong with deciding you'd like to get a smaller tractor that both mows and does tractor jobs.

The OP said
1. I need to save time
2. I only want one lightweight machine that does everything

These are mutually exclusive and the OP needs to pick ONE of these.

I was in a similar situation and didn't want to spend 3-4 hours a week cutting grass. I could have hired a lawn maintenance company but after 3-4 years it would have paid for a new commercial ZTR at that point. I bought a ZTR and I now waste 1 hour a week cutting grass.

No SCUT or CUT will cut as fast and save you the same amount of time.

The OP claims he wants option 1 when really he just want a new SCUT and to sell his current equipment. Sounds to me OP wants new toys and is trying to justify and wifey says no.

 

[nbryan]

" When I am using my loader I don’t always have my backhoe on. Usually it’s my box blade, which is why I decided to load the tires. "

Thank you, this helps a lot!

I do NOT have loaded tires in my B2650.

When I use my loader all that is needed is my B1560 Land Pride box scraper on the 3-point to enable me to lift as much as the tractor's relief valves allow. It's plenty enough ballast to keep the rear tires in decent contact with the ground.

So why load the tires?

 

[DME1234]

I do NOT have loaded tires in my B2650.

When I use my loader all that is needed is my B1560 Land Pride box scraper on the 3-point to enable me to lift as much as the tractor's relief valves allow. It's plenty enough ballast to keep the rear tires in decent contact with the ground.

So why load the tires?

My concern is more with stability on hills based on what others have said. Also, mentioned prior, I could start with no fluid in the tires and see how it performs. If I need the extra ballast for the hills I can always easily add fluid later.

 

[nbryan]

My concern is more with stability on hills based on what others have said. Also, mentioned prior, I could start with no fluid in the tires and see how it performs. If I need the extra ballast for the hills I can always easily add fluid later.

I think you'll find it quite stable without filled tires. And less weight messing up the ground. Of course it all depends on your land's topo and your specific usage!

 

[DME1234]

I think you'll find it quite stable without filled tires. And less weight messing up the ground. Of course it all depends on your land's topo and your specific usage!

Appreciate the help!

 

[GreensvilleJay]

re:
The OP said
1. I need to save time
2. I only want one lightweight machine that does everything


1) saving time ? where ? If 'when cutting grass', turn 1.5 acres of lawn into a veggie garden. Far less grass to cut, it feeds garden, garden feed you..

2) THAT machine does NOT exist ! Any 'all-in-one' machine will cost HUGE and be a PITA in changing implements. I've got dedicated 'rough lawn' rider, 'nice lawn rider/bag', snowblowing rider for 'landscaping jobs' LESS money in all 3 than 1/8th of what the BX23S cost.

Consider the MMM for the BX23S is about $3000 up here,ouch. I'm curious, can anyone tell me how long it takes to mount and remove it ? Now triple that time as I'm near 70,bifocals and missing 2 discs....
Hmm, front mount blower is about 5K......same problem....

 

[Oliver]

My concern is more with stability on hills based on what others have said. Also, mentioned prior, I could start with no fluid in the tires and see how it performs. If I need the extra ballast for the hills I can always easily add fluid later.

Yes I would suggest starting w/o filled tires which'll probably be just fine unless you're on pretty steep hills. If you decide you want more stability (which living here in WV I did on my L2501) add 2" rear spacers. For no more money (than tire liquid) they'll give you more stability without adding the weight, compromising ride over rough ground, and you won't have to deal with a mess when you get a puncture.

 

[DME1234]

After a few test drives and several nights of debate, we ended up purchasing an LX2610 with R14 tires, loader, 60" QA bucket, 60" box blade, and 60" MMM. I am going to see how it handles my RCR1860 rotary cutter before I sell it. Thank you to everyone who took the time to give their opinions!