Well I finally got back up to tractor. We had a couple of inches of snow on top of what I blew last time. I put the 911 red stuff in full tank of fresh diesel. I let tractor run for a half hour last night. This morning I took it out and It was doing the same thing. I had picked up a new fuel filter and air filter at dealer and installed them. Tried the tractor again and It just doesn't have the same power it had. I took it on the road to run it and in High range it just would stay up to speed. If i was going down hill it seemed fine. soon as I started to go up a incline and I am talking very minimal incline it just slowed way down. If i touched any controls the tractor would load down and slow. Same thing with the snow blowing . It was fine with the few inches but as soon as I went into the old stuff it would blow it but would just not feel right. Any other suggestion's. I am just hung up on something they did with the rear remote install. As far as the street running I cant really say for sure it was doing that before because I don't normally go far with it or put it in High range. Well we have a potential of 15 to 20" of lake effect snow coming and I will try and maybe rerun the chute rotation hydraulic lines to rear remote and use it and see what happens. Thanks for all the replies.
B2650 feels sluggish
- Thread starter Highmarket
- Start date
Highmarket, Who's your dealer up here? I've had an issue with one of them in the past with their service work.
Snow blower is heavy. So is cab. I expect that your rear tires are filled which is also heavy.
Too heavy to maintain high speed on inclines.
You're expecting too much.
Same when blowing compacted snow/ice.
SDT
RCW
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
A couple times in this thread you have mentioned pushing the HST pedal all the way down and also running in high range....
An HST pedal isn't like "mashing the gas" on your passenger vehicle. It actually has the opposite effect and reduces drive-torque greatly. It has the effect of putting a manual transmission in overdrive....
In doing so, it also taxes all the systems of the tractor. Easing off the pedal might get the result you're looking for.
Do you blow snow in L, M, or H Range?
I've run my BX front-mounted snowblower 8 seasons - - 3 feet a couple times, and 18+ way too many times.
I've never blown snow in anything but Low, but I only have 2 ranges. I do mow grass in high range, and move along pretty quickly.
With 3 ranges, maybe your B2650 could do M, but try L with the 'blower just ot see how it works?
Not saying it's not a tractor problem, but if it were me, I'd try low range, and go easy HST pedal......
An HST pedal isn't like "mashing the gas" on your passenger vehicle. It actually has the opposite effect and reduces drive-torque greatly. It has the effect of putting a manual transmission in overdrive....
In doing so, it also taxes all the systems of the tractor. Easing off the pedal might get the result you're looking for.
Do you blow snow in L, M, or H Range?
I've run my BX front-mounted snowblower 8 seasons - - 3 feet a couple times, and 18+ way too many times.
I've never blown snow in anything but Low, but I only have 2 ranges. I do mow grass in high range, and move along pretty quickly.
With 3 ranges, maybe your B2650 could do M, but try L with the 'blower just ot see how it works?
Not saying it's not a tractor problem, but if it were me, I'd try low range, and go easy HST pedal......
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Evans. Everything looks good. I didn't contact them yet. I wanted to try the filter changes first. It did ok with the snow today. Just seems like it lost a little power.
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My significantly more powerful B3350 would not do what you are expecting and it's a significantly lighter ROPS model.
SDT
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Evans is the better of the 2 around here, give Ryan a call I'am sure he'll have a answer for you. Like others have said you may need to lift off the HST pedal and you almost feel it down shift.
RCW
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
You guys get a ton of snow. I see snowmobile trailers heading up Route 12 your way all winter long.....
Maybe unhook the PTO just to ensure blower spins freely? It’s rear mount I think so pretty simple drive, but maybe bearing froze up....
Just tossing ideas.
I also went back and re-read your first post.
You mentioned the new remotes and if they were operated they bogged the tractor down. I missed that before.
This all started with the new remotes? Does it bog down with an implement attached?
Maybe unhook the PTO just to ensure blower spins freely? It’s rear mount I think so pretty simple drive, but maybe bearing froze up....
Just tossing ideas.
I also went back and re-read your first post.
You mentioned the new remotes and if they were operated they bogged the tractor down. I missed that before.
This all started with the new remotes? Does it bog down with an implement attached?
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I did that once, tractor running sluggish, mowed half the yard before I noticed the parking brake was on. Sheesse felt like dummy.
The blower spins freely I broke a shear pin and was able to turn it no problem. The new rear remotes had nothing hooked to them. When running down the road once up to speed if I push the pedal all the way forward it would feel like it was slowing it down. Again on flat road up to speed not full pedal if I touched the New remote with nothing hooked to them it would slow down. This could all be the way it has been as I never really run it fast . I just happen to run down the road to knock a snow bank down. The thing that Kind of got me paying attention was when I hooked the chute rotator up to the forward remote like it has been for the last 2 seasons that it would only rotate one direction. I swapped the hoses to go back the other way and it still didn't work right. Once I did a run snow blowing a few inch's it seemed to rotate fine. The next day the rotate didn't work again right away but once I started snow blowing again it worked fine and has worked fine since. Then that's when I ran down road and started noticing the other stuff. The blower did fine with new snow which was light if I went slow which I normally do. It just seemed a like something changed Hydraulically. I didn't get a chance to hook up to the rear remote. I was afraid to mess with it with the snow coming and everything was working. I am going back up Wed and will platy with it again.
Ryan was great to deal with when I bought it. He had that rear remote for 2 years waiting for me. I finally had time to get him the tractor in fall. I got it back and didn't use the tractor except for putting the blower on.
When you operate the remote valve control with nothing connected to the outlets you deadhead the pump against the relief valve.
It takes power to do this.
SDT
nbryan
Well-known member
Equipment
B2650 BH77 LA534 54" ssqa Forks B2782B BB1560 Woods M5-4 MaxxHaul 50039
Does your tractor still have a return quick-connect hydraulic hose where a backhoe hooks in? I had similar symptoms, but the 3-point and loader boom wouldn't raise. Found that the return line had come just loose enough to open the circuit so there was no return flow at all.
I had a really strange thing happen with my tractor where I lost power but the tractor seemed to work normally.
Turned out that after installing my 3PH backhoe, I forgot to lower the 3PH position lever and I was at the edge where the position control would fight to lift the 3PH, but could not move the 3PH, so I lost power. After posting a question, someone said check the 3PH position lever, and that was the issue.
I am just mentioning this because there are things that might be done that could produce your symptoms. Does not have to be a serious issue at all.
Not sure this helps at all...but posting just in case it might...
Edit: Thinking about it, nbryan may have hit on something important. You had no issue before the valves were installed in the circuit. Now you do. This indicates that something changed with the valve installation.
So if there was a restriction in the flow circuit through all the valves, which goes back to the tank, could this have some effect similar to dead heading the circuit when everything is operating normally? Seems like it might.
In other words, there could be a condition related to the installation of the new valves, that is only apparent when you are trying to get maximum output from the system. Similar to what would happen if you activate one of the control valve when there is nothing connected to the output connections, but to a lesser degree since there may just be a restriction, and not a blockage...
I am almost completely certain if I operate one of my hydraulic valves against the end of a cylinder stroke, while moving, the tractor lugs down until I release that valve. I have never tried feathering a valve in this situation to see the affect, but can imagine it.
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Just another thought. Worst case, you could take the incoming hose and outgoing hose off the new valve assembly and connect them together. This would eliminate the valve relatively easily (the power beyond connections, for lack of a better term), and you could verify that what you think you are experiencing is actually the case.
Once you conclude there really is a problem, you could address the issue as almost certainly being an issue with the new valve assembly or the connections to it.
Once you conclude there really is a problem, you could address the issue as almost certainly being an issue with the new valve assembly or the connections to it.