B2601 Top & Tilt, Triple Rear Remotes

[Tractor_Chunks]

I have dual rear remotes on my B2601 and have attachments that use them (one of them uses both rear rear remotes).
I may like to add top & tilt, and I'm wondering what my options are to buy that setup for the 01?
Then my next question is about using attachments that require the rear remotes. Given that I only have two, how do I manage this?
If I wanted to do a third rear remote, and possibly a fourth, what are my options?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Top & tilt no problem.

There are several ways to add a 3rd & or 4th set of couplers.

If you have the Kubota sets of rear remotes, then I suggest adding some diverter valves.
If you have 3rd party valves and they are stacking valves, you can simply add to what you have.
If they are a monoblock valve set, then I would get a new set of stacking valves and get the type of valves that would work best for your applications.

 

[Tractor_Chunks]

Top & tilt no problem.

There are several ways to add a 3rd & or 4th set of couplers.

If you have the Kubota sets of rear remotes, then I suggest adding some diverter valves.
If you have 3rd party valves and they are stacking valves, you can simply add to what you have.
If they are a monoblock valve set, then I would get a new set of stacking valves and get the type of valves that would work best for your applications.

Oh, wow. Controls on the 3ph lever - that's brilliant.
The only concern I see is that can't electronically controlled valves can be twitchy? Is anyone here using such a valve setup on their 3ph lever and is it accurate enough.

The next concern is removing the setup for when I need to use the backhoe. I was concerned about this with the stock hitch, but I've found I can put it on and off pretty quickly, just keeping all the arms attached to my quick hitch. If I make a little dolly to set it on, it'll be easy peasy.
I guess with a T&T setup, it's extra weight and four hose connections, but again, with a dolly, it shouldn't be too bad.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Oh, wow. Controls on the 3ph lever - that's brilliant.
The only concern I see is that can't electronically controlled valves can be twitchy? Is anyone here using such a valve setup on their 3ph lever and is it accurate enough.

The next concern is removing the setup for when I need to use the backhoe. I was concerned about this with the stock hitch, but I've found I can put it on and off pretty quickly, just keeping all the arms attached to my quick hitch. If I make a little dolly to set it on, it'll be easy peasy.
I guess with a T&T setup, it's extra weight and four hose connections, but again, with a dolly, it shouldn't be too bad.

Actually those are diverter valves, he would install the control grip on one of his existing rear remote levers. You control the cylinder exactly like you would with the std valve, because that is exactly what you are doing, just diverting that control to a different sets of couplers.

 

[Tractor_Chunks]

Actually those are diverter valves, he would install the control grip on one of his existing rear remote levers. You control the cylinder exactly like you would with the std valve, because that is exactly what you are doing, just diverting that control to a different sets of couplers.

Well, that isn't nearly as awesome. Wouldn't it be way more useful to set it up as electronically actuated valves? Basically, the same as the OEM third function valve for the loader, but on the back of the tractor, with the buttons on the 3ph lever.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Well, that isn't nearly as awesome. Wouldn't it be way more useful to set it up as electronically actuated valves? Basically, the same as the OEM third function valve for the loader, but on the back of the tractor, with the buttons on the 3ph lever.

If you don't like being able to feather the controls for cylinders. I believe that is the favorite most precise way of operating a top & tilt set as well as hydraulics on a snow blower. About any implement cylinder actually.

Not really that big of a deal for a grapple, open, close. But when you want to get an exact position, or get to that position smoothy, the std electric actuated valves are not the way to do it.

But if that is something that you want to do, have at it and be sure to have a step by step process for everyone to see.

 

[UpNorthMI]

I slowly learned each time I purchased a tractor that tractors should ideally have 2 sets of rear remotes, that allows a top and tilt or the chute rotate and chute tilt on a snowblower, I finally got it right with my third tractor. In most cases I can get away with the 2 sets. I guess I could run my snowblower on a top and tilt set up and need 4 sets of rear remotes, seems a little too much for day to day use. I normally run a top link and then the other set for a blade cylinder or a dump trailer. The issue is these rear remote set ups get expensive!