More off topic plumbing questions haha.

[Shadow_storm56]

Not really anything too crazy but I installed a UV system and when theres no water flowing for a while the casing of the unit will get pretty warm/hot. Is there risk of cracking the glass sleeve from the sudden temp drop of cold water? I know my aunt has the same setup but the use water all the time day and night with the number of people in the house so it's a non issue. Should I add a little bleed line that's just always flowing a dribble of water into a drain maybe? Or does the lamp getting hot and then suddenly cold not matter?

That's really my only remaining issue, everything works great and I have around 5-7Gpm at a wide open valve so lots of water that's clean in the end. It's limited by the wrong type of valve by the pressure tank which I'll swap out, they used a tap valve so it's a bit small. Idk I like to talk about this kinda stuff, learning new things is always fun.

Oh one last thing, a half to 2/3 size water heater would only be enough for one shower in a row I am assuming?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

If it's as good quality UV filter then it will have tempered glass so it's not an issue at all.
And anything less than 40 Gallon WH and you'll be taking some cold showers, you could go to a tankless and then it's a non issue.

 

[Shadow_storm56]

If it's as good quality UV filter then it will have tempered glass so it's not an issue at all.
And anything less than 40 Gallon WH and you'll be taking some cold showers, you could go to a tankless and then it's a non issue.

Apparently they are a quartz dome for the UV filter, rainfresh brand. I have a spare full sized water heater if it ends up being too small, wr setup a shower in our barn that never was used so it's literally just sitting there brand new water heat that's off.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Apparently they are a quartz dome for the UV filter, rainfresh brand. I have a spare full sized water heater if it ends up being too small, wr setup a shower in our barn that never was used so it's literally just sitting there brand new water heat that's off.

Yea Quartz glass is even greater at dealing with hot and cold changes, you should never have a problem from thermal changes.

If you want to create a more efficient UV filter set up you can have it turn on with the pump flow to keep it from running all the time.

 

[Shadow_storm56]

Yea Quartz glass is even greater and dealing with hot and cold changes, you should never have a problem from thermal changes.

If you want to create a more efficient UV filter set up you can have it turn on with the pump flow to keep it from running all the time.

Awesome well that's one worry gone, Yea a flow switch although if it left gaps in treatment that wouldn't be great.

 

[JimmyJazz]

I have two UV light filters. My water comes out of a mountain stream . The previous owners lived long healthy lives drinking the water unfiltered ,bathing, washing clothes , dishes..... Being a concerned city slicker I had the UV filter installed and after replacing the bulb several times I gave up on it. Cant tell the difference. I did install a UV light filter in my forced air heating/cooling ductwork and feel good about it. I thinks its a good idea. I would contact the manufacturer to see if "cycling" the bulb on and off frequently would lessen its life. My water filter bulbs were $80 each. Lucky to get a year out of one.

 

[34by151]

As we dont have town water all our water is via rainwater tanks
We have a creak, dams and bore water as well but dont use that for drinking water

Living in the subtropics rainfall is not an issue even in drought times.
Prior to entering the tank we have leaf eaters and and a wet pipe dischage system.
This drains the underground pipe going to the tank once the rain stops prevent stagnet water in the pipes.

All the tanks have sediment drains.
This is a simple matrix of pipes on the bottom of the tank and connected inside the tank to the overflow.
This means that the overflow is taking water from the bottom of the tank not the top. This removes the sediment via the overflow.

A pressure pump is connected to the tank which feeds the drinking water supply.
This has a pressure switch and a large 300L (80 Gal) pressure tank.
We have the first double filter + UV after the pump and before the pressure tank.
It passes from a 20micron prefilter though the UV and then to a 5 Micron before the pressure tank
The second filter is the same setup and after the pressure tank
Last we have a pressure valve to reduce the line pressure

Both UV tubes are only on when the pump is running, IE when water is flowing
The pump swich also has a fairly wide differential setting.
We pump the tank up to 140psi and cut the pump back in at 80psi.
The regulator then drops it down to 70psi.

Pump does not cycle much due to the tank size and high pressure diffential
We have had the UV filters in for 6 years now and are still on the origional tubes.

If we had them on all the time we would get about a year per tube
As it is setup the tube will outlast us

 

[ath42]

When I installed the Viqua UV treatment unit in our house, they recommended adding a temperature management valve that will release water if it gets too hot. It is a tee with the valve in one leg that gets installed right after the UV unit:
temperature management valve
I ran the plastic tube it came with down to the sump pump.

 

[GeoHorn]

When I installed a compressed-air distribution system in my hangar I was planning on copper lines until I noticed one of the long-respected automotive shops used common 3/4” PVC. I asked the owner of that shop how that worked out for them and how often they’d had to make repairs to it. (I had researched this topic and PVC pipe was specifically forbidden for such systems by respected engineering firms due to physical damaga hazards.)
The shop replied they’d installed the system in 1979 and the only modifications they’d made was when they extended the system into the newer repair-bays in 1985. They’d never had a failure.
What really surprised me was they are running their system at 160 psi.
I only wanted 125 psi.... so I created my system using the same 3/4” pvc and glue. I have almost 225 feet of pipe and almost 40 fittings and 6 manifolds. I completed the system in April 2000 and have never in these 20 years had a failure. (DAMN that went by fast!). Common 3/4” sched. 40 PVC is rated at 480 psi and I feel that running at 1/4 of that rating is sufficiently safe in a private non-commercial operation. YMMV

 

[NHSleddog]

When I installed a compressed-air distribution system in my hangar I was planning on copper lines until I noticed one of the long-respected automotive shops used common 3/4” PVC. I asked the owner of that shop how that worked out for them and how often they’d had to make repairs to it. (I had researched this topic and PVC pipe was specifically forbidden for such systems by respected engineering firms due to physical damaga hazards.)
The shop replied they’d installed the system in 1979 and the only modifications they’d made was when they extended the system into the newer repair-bays in 1985. They’d never had a failure.
What really surprised me was they are running their system at 160 psi.
I only wanted 125 psi.... so I created my system using the same 3/4” pvc and glue. I have almost 225 feet of pipe and almost 40 fittings and 6 manifolds. I completed the system in April 2000 and have never in these 20 years had a failure. (DAMN that went by fast!). Common 3/4” sched. 40 PVC is rated at 480 psi and I feel that running at 1/4 of that rating is sufficiently safe in a private non-commercial operation. YMMV

The reason plumbing PVC is not supposed to be used in air supply is it splinters when it explodes making it a grenade.

Hopefully your cheap solution never kills anyone as that would be very bad for them as well as you..

 

[GeoHorn]

The reason plumbing PVC is not supposed to be used in air supply is it splinters when it explodes making it a grenade.

Hopefully your cheap solution never kills anyone as that would be very bad for them as well as you..

Yes, that was my concern also and why I originally planned copper. The auto shops 40 years and my own 20 years of experience with it has removed a lot of such concern.

As for my “cheap solution” ...yes, cost is why I considered PVC and also why I specified mine is a “non commercial” and a “private” use.

 

[NHSleddog]

Yes, that was my concern also and why I originally planned copper. The auto shop and my own 20 years of experience with it has removed a lot of such concern.

As for my “cheap solution” ...yes, cost is why I considered PVC and also why I specified mine is a “non commercial” and a “private” use.

Private use is irrelevant when the insurance company is denying the claim. Or the injured persons lawyer is involved.

I am not sure if you have heard this or not but "things are not made the way they used to be". Don't expect todays PVC to be like 20yo PVC or even PVC from a different manufacturer. Really really bad advice to use plumbing PVC for pressured air. Don't take my word for it Geo, google it.

As to your 20 year installation - you got lucky and that is good for you.

Plumbers PVC pipe is NOT RECOMMENDED for use with compressed air. ... As with many plastics, PVC gets brittle over time and can crack, break, or even shatter.

Maybe it is time to renew the system before a bad failure?

 

[PoTreeBoy]

The reason plumbing PVC is not supposed to be used in air supply is it splinters when it explodes making it a grenade.

Hopefully your cheap solution never kills anyone as that would be very bad for them as well as you..

Yep. I think there have been enough documented failures causing serious injuries to show that practice to be irresponsible, except maybe if shields from exposure are in place.
I think there is something else going on (accelerated oxidation?) from exposure to compressed air that weakens and/or increases brittleness.

 

[NHSleddog]

Yep. I think there have been enough documented failures causing serious injuries to show that practice to be irresponsible, except maybe if shields from exposure are in place.
I think there is something else going on (accelerated oxidation?) from exposure to compressed air that weakens and/or increases brittleness.

Yes, the oils and the hot cold cycles of compressed air add to the degradation.

 

[NHSleddog]

If you want an inexpensive easy to install air setup. They do have plastic kits that are rated for it.

Amazon.com

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Yes, the oils and the hot cold cycles of compressed air add to the degradation.

Apparently, ABS is ok. But I've only seen ABS for drain systems, not pressure rated.

 

[34by151]

Blueline Poly pipe is rated for air and water (differnet pressure ratings)
For Air PN12 pipe is 180psi and PN16 is 230Psi

You need to be carefull with the compression fittings though. Most water fittings are not designed such the high pressure. The phillmac ones are fine.

In my shed I have two 3 phase compressors. (10Hp and 15Hp) these feed an A/C dryer via some filters and then a storage tank. The 15hp is rotary screw unitand the 10hp unit is my older piston compressor. The 10hp is also setup to only cut in if the pressure is low so its never on any more anyway just protects against a failure in the 15hp one.

I have a manafold connected to the tank which has a 50mm (2inch) poly lines. One line goes to the CNC Plasma which also has another storage tank. The other is in a ring around the workshop. Tapped off this are droppers with regulators and water traps.

The water traps are not needed as the A/C dryier removes all the water (even here in the tropical climate). Have never need to drain them in 6 years. Gave up checking the storage tanks

The droppers are all 50mm as well. The end fitting is reduced to 1/2" for the regulators

All the air lines are at line pressure (145psi). I went to 50mm to allow for pressure drop at max air air flow.

 

[GeoHorn]

Ya know... 20 years ago when I did this I was living on a tight budget and needed air in the shop. These days in my retirement my finances are different.
This thread has reminded me of that and maybe it is a good idea to convert the system to a water-distribution system and install an entirely new all-metal compressed-air system.
Thanks to all for the reminder.

 

[34by151]

As it happens I have 40mm blueline poly alongside the air lines for water supply

 

[D2Cat]

Anna, be thankful you have indoor plumbing!!