I'm not sure how I could use the tractor any different. When I first start it, it's only moved 4 or 5 feet, just so it's outside the shelter then left to warm up at an rpm of around 1500 just until the temp needle starts to move. The tractor is never worked under 2200 rpms and when it's blowing snow more like 25 to 2600. This is the second time over the 5 years I've owned it this happened and if I remember correctly it was doing the same thing, blowing wet snow while going up an incline. It has 800 hours on it now and I'm not going to panic yet as it did complete it's bake cycle and after being shut down and restarted it's no longer showing a code, same as last time. I've just kept working through pretty much all of it's regins while at a high rpm but as stated only had the problem twice. Next time it's ready for a bake I'll stop working it until it finishes and see what happens. Hopefully it just got too hot trying to move that heavy wet snow while moving so slow, turtle low. I sure do appreciate everyones input and I will definitely let everyone know the out come but it could be a while because the only time it gets used this time of year is clearing snow and we're done with that for this year right.To remove and EGR valve they usually require a special tool to do it. It's not difficult though.
Dealers actually don't remove an EGR to clean them. At least I haven't come across one that does.
I can't speak to the Kubota's, but I would assume that they clean them the same way Deere does.
Back when I had full access to the deere software I would run the engine up to operating temperature. Then clicked on the "EGR Clean" tab in the tests and functions menu.
It would cycle the EGR valve through it's full range of motion.
I would do that up to 30ish timesIf the unit was still throwing an EGR code after that then I would swap it out and calibrate the new one.
Honestly though, if your using your tractor the way it's supposed to, you will get many years out of an EGR valve without issue.
