Need for 3rd function

[JoeBabbs]

Do I really need a 3rd function valve to angle a hydraulic snow plow on a SSQA? I know I'll need to raise and lower the plow (using one set of valves on the loader), but I don't think I'll actually need to tilt it, as I do with my loader bucket. If I don't need to tilt the snow plow, that leaves the tilt valves on the FEL to angle it. Can I lock the tilt function into one fixed position, and use the snow plow this way, and without causing damage to the hydraulics?

The loader is a LA525 on an L3800.

 

[old and tired]

I'm guessing the tilt feature would be very spongy without the high pressure. To disconnect, you'll lose the high pressure. If you could capture the pressure inside the tilt hoses (ball lock?). Or these???

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[GreensvilleJay]

I plowed for years with a manual angle 6'6 blade on a CJ-5. By preplanning the lot, I only needed to get out maybe once or twice so it really depends on where you can get rid of the snow. You may find you don't really need it.

 

[chim]

Do I really need a 3rd function valve to angle a hydraulic snow plow on a SSQA? I know I'll need to raise and lower the plow (using one set of valves on the loader), but I don't think I'll actually need to tilt it, as I do with my loader bucket. If I don't need to tilt the snow plow, that leaves the tilt valves on the FEL to angle it. Can I lock the tilt function into one fixed position, and use the snow plow this way, and without causing damage to the hydraulics?

The loader is a LA525 on an L3800.

I use the curl and dump functions when backdragging away from the garage or when wanting a more aggressive cut. The blade normally floats via chains. To backdrag I dump the plow and usually the weight of the blade is sufficient. The frame is made to enable two more levels of downward force. Occasionally if more down pressure is needed I can float the loader arms and let them bear down on the blade frame. If there's something really stuck on, I can add the weight of the front of the tractor. The curl/dump is needed to get the geometry right for the different modes.

You will want to have the plow frame parallel with the surface that's being plowed. Otherwise when you angle the blade, one end will dig and the other may not even be on the ground. I have markings for the level indicator to return to that setting following backdragging, etc.

The way I built my SSQA plow followed the designs of Paul Short and Gordon Gould. If you search for "Setback Underslung Snow Plow" there's a lot of info to peruse.

I've had manual angle plows on a Jeep and a Power Wagon as well as several rear scraper blades on tractors that were manual. I've had power angle plows on a K5 Blazer and the Kubota. As Jay said, the manual plows work but take planning (and getting out of the warm to adjust them). I'd pick power angle if at all possible. I find myself swinging the blade when coming to the end of a push sometimes. It's easier to stack the snow with the blade straight.

Can't recall the whole conversation, but recently there was a post in which the guy complained about only being able to angle in one direction or some such situation when trying to use just the regular loader hydraulics.

 

[NHSleddog]

Need for 3rd function - Yes.

You can actually move a lot of snow without a plow at all, why use a plow? Why not a shovel? Power angle -it can be done without it, however having a fantastic hydraulic fluid management system (your tractor) sure makes it easy.

Plow power angle,
Grapple
Auger
Cement Mixer
Tree Grabber
etc.

 

[shelkol]

You would have to verify that your load valve curl function does not have a regenerative circuit which would make it dump faster. If it is just a 3-way valve and not a 4-way you can't use the curl function valve to angle your plow. You'll need a third function kit.

 

[je1279]

Do I really need a 3rd function valve to angle a hydraulic snow plow on a SSQA? I know I'll need to raise and lower the plow (using one set of valves on the loader), but I don't think I'll actually need to tilt it, as I do with my loader bucket. If I don't need to tilt the snow plow, that leaves the tilt valves on the FEL to angle it. Can I lock the tilt function into one fixed position, and use the snow plow this way, and without causing damage to the hydraulics?

The loader is a LA525 on an L3800.

I considered this option as well but after the first time plowing, I was glad I opted for the third function kit. In addition to the curl function not moving on its own as others have mentioned, I found that I used the curl function quite a bit when stacking snow from large snowfalls. You can always try it and if it doest work for you, then add a 3rd function kit.

 

[SDT]

I considered this option as well but after the first time plowing, I was glad I opted for the third function kit. In addition to the curl function not moving on its own as others have mentioned, I found that I used the curl function quite a bit when stacking snow from large snowfalls. You can always try it and if it doest work for you, then add a 3rd function kit.

Bingo, JE.

Though a diverter valve might be useful for doing what the OP desires to do, I find that I use curl about as often as lift when plowing snow with my hydraulically angled blades.

A more versatile option would be a rear remote valve to operate angle without a third function.

SDT

 

[i7win7]

I have the SSQA and 3pt blades. For me the 3pt blade is the better tool.

 

[chim]

Does your SSQA blade float on a chain? If it doesn't I can understand why you prefer the rear blade. After using the power angle floating front blade for a while, it suits me better than anything else I've had.

For about 20 years THE snow removal tool for me was a rear blade on three different tractors. For those years the main use was driveways for me and nearby neighbors. For smaller snows it was easy to run forward with the blade swung abut 45 degrees and make one pass down and another back. That shoved the snow to both sides of the driveway. There were times I used the FEL, but it isn't the ideal tool.

For deeper snows, I had to plow backwards or the blade acted like a rudder and the tractor went sideways. Parking areas generally required hopping on and off the tractor to swing the blade to cast the snow to the right or left or straight forward or back. Not a big deal, but not desirable.

Ran a rear blower for several years. It was fun to watch the snow fly, but for most of what I do it was slow. For the parking lots I clear, it was useless.

 

[JoeBabbs]

Bingo, JE.

Though a diverter valve might be useful for doing what the OP desires to do, I find that I use curl about as often as lift when plowing snow with my hydraulically angled blades.

A more versatile option would be a rear remote valve to operate angle without a third function.

SDT

Rear remotes are on my wish list for top and tilt control of my box blade, and I was thinking of including an additional valve for the angle function for a front plow. Thanks.

 

[i7win7]

Does your SSQA blade float on a chain?

Nope, I think the only thing that can salvage this is caster wheels. Must be a reason commercial plows have them.

 

[chim]

Looks like the SSQA plate would be fairly close to the ground in that picture. If it wouldn't be so nice and new looking it would be tempting to drag it into the shop and see what could be done to modify it.

 

[chriscozi]

Nope, I think the only thing that can salvage this is caster wheels. Must be a reason commercial plows have them.

A couple of things about plowing with this blade.
1. Get a plastic/rubber replacement blade or you'll gouge/scratch what you plow.
2. The blade has a latch/clip on each side, so that it looses the spring function, which helps over rough patches.
3. Third function is awesome to make BIG piles easy.
4. The skid plates? on each side are real handy when you plow a gravel drive.
5. Increases the front weight a lot so make sure you have rear ballast. See my post on using the front weights frame on the rear via hitch.

 

[i7win7]

A couple of things about plowing with this blade.
1. Get a plastic/rubber replacement blade or you'll gouge/scratch what you plow.
2. The blade has a latch/clip on each side, so that it looses the spring function, which helps over rough patches.
3. Third function is awesome to make BIG piles easy.
4. The skid plates? on each side are real handy when you plow a gravel drive.
5. Increases the front weight a lot so make sure you have rear ballast. See my post on using the front weights frame on the rear via hitch.

#1 Don't care - gravel drive
#2 Look at photo - clips are raised -not used
#3 Have 3rd function
#4 The skids are the problem
#5 550# rear blade

What using only the rear blade can do

 

[chim]

What using only the rear blade can do
View attachment 52928
[/QUOTE]
The big difference between the front and rear blade performance is the rear blade floats its own weight and the front blade floats its weight plus the FEL frame. You may also need to pay attention to the dump/curl to control how aggressive it is.