Do you guys ever use your box blade as a dozer to push dirt?
I did it yesterday to make a been and it worked well. I ripped the ground to loosen it then backed up to make a berm about 8 to 10 inches high.
I did 10 building pads like this so they could be soaked.
Am I setting myself up for damages?
Gotta agree with North Idaho Wolfman. Even a light duty BB is great for pushing loose dirt, and due to the nature of having two curled blades mounted back to back, it's pretty darned rigid. You're probably going to either stall the tractor or make it spin if you push too much. If you're going so fast that you break something, maybe that's a different problem altogether. If you're going to be using it in a lot of rough places, there are at least 3 different grades of BB that I've seen. General use, Commercial Use, and heavy duty. As I said, the general use will typically stop your tractor if you hit something it can't move. The heavier grades will too, obviously. The advantage of the heavier blades is the weight. They'll tear up soil faster. With any box blade, though patience is a virtue. The 3-point lift links are generally pointed down when the BB is all the way down, i.e. the pins on the BB are lower than the pins on the tractor. This will cause the rear of the tractor to lift as load increases on the blade. Geometry works.
I've dragged (forward) out 4 inch diameter roots and small stumps with the rippers on my little LandPride 1248, but a small mound of packed clay made my LX2610 (with ballast in the tires) stop and spin quite easily when I was pushing (reverse). The only damage to it so far is where I was silly enough to put a clevis in one of the holes on the top of the box and pull on something with a chain. Very minor cosmetic damage, but I still felt pretty stupid after I did it. I won't be doing that again. Obviously, if the dirt is wet, it's a lot heavier, and much harder to move. You might be better off moving it with the FEL. That's a pretty big tractor you have, so I can't see much getting in it's way.
