OEM Kubota 3rd Function Kit Install

je1279

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I recently purchased an OEM Kubota 3rd function kit for my LX2610 (part number B7368). While I am fairly handy with a wrench, I've never installed one of these before and the instructions provided with the kit basically only cover the changes if the tractor has a backhoe installed. I'm sure that I could fumble through it and figure it out but does anyone know if there are more useful instructions out there for these?
 
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OrangeKrush

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I recently purchased an OEM Kubota 3rd function kit for my LX2610 (part number B7368). While I am fairly handy with a wrench, I've never installed one of these before and the instructions provided basically only covered what to do if the tractor has a backhoe installed. I'm sure that I could fumble through it and figure it out but does anyone know if there is more useful instructions out there anywhere for these?
I’ll be watching, may want a grapple down the road. I’ve really never messed with hydraulic lines and or bleeding if necessary.
 
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je1279

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I’ll be watching, may want a grapple down the road. I’ve really never messed with hydraulic lines and or bleeding if necessary.
So I just found some helpful information courtesy of Ryan Lynch's YouTube channel. The detailed instructions for the 3rd function kit are included in the loader assembly instruction manual (the LA535 in my case). While I couldn't find this manual online, I did find one for the LA534 which is quite similar and I'm hoping that it provides me with everything that I need. Here is the link in case it is helpful for others as well.

 
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tthorkil

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So I just found some helpful information courtesy of Ryan Lynch's YouTube channel. The detailed instructions for the 3rd function kit are included in the loader assembly instructions manual (the LA535 in my case). While I couldn't find this manual online, I did find one for the LA534 which is extremely similar and should provide everything that I need. Here is the link in case it is helpful for others as well.

I found my LA535 Assembly Instructions. I started a 'Conversation' - click on the envelope just to the left of the magnifying glass at top right of the page.
 
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je1279

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I found my LA535 Assembly Instructions. I started a 'Conversation' - click on the envelope just to the left of the magnifying glass at top right of the page.
I installed the brackets and electrical connections today with a big help from the instructions that @tthorkil provided. I plan to complete the hydraulics tomorrow but the only issue so far is that the bolts for the valve mounting bracket need to be installed from out to in regardless of what the instructions say. Otherwise, the valve will not fit correctly the bracket. I will report back tomorrow on how it goes but so far, I have been pleased with both the quality of the OEM 3rd function kit and the ease of installation.
 
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Old_Paint

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Photos? Ain't real unless you post photos. ;)
 
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je1279

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Photos? Ain't real unless you post photos. ;)
As requested. Sadly, tonight did not go as planned. I removed the boom cylinder and routed the hard lines. This was fairly easy. The issue was when I tried to install the new tube stays to secure the hard lines in the loader arm. Even though I routed them exactly as depicted, the new bolt didn't even thread into the loader arm. I fiddled with it for about an hour and after making no progress, decided to go get some longer bolts. Well the longer bolts kind of worked but I then realized that I was unable to reattach the loader foot as it was hitting on the new tube stay. At this point I was just going to remove the lines, admit defeat and bring it to the dealership (I ordered the kit with the tractor but it wasn't supposed to arrive until late January so I asked to have the tractor delivered without it so I had something to plow with). Well thats when things got real fun as somehow while I was removing the lower tube stay, the head of the bolt sheared off (see last picture and yes I verified that the ratchet was in set to loosen). So now, I need to figure out how to get that out first. My attempts with two sets of vice grips this evening proved unsuccessful so I'm going to try the jam nut method or possibly some red loctite on a couple nuts tomorrow but I may have to run a die down the threads first as I already chewed them up pretty good. Just another reminder not to claim success while the project is still in flight...
 

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Old_Paint

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As requested. Sadly, tonight did not go as planned.
Bummer on the broken bolt. Paint in the threads in the boom before you tightened them? Hopefully there's enough of it left to use a Dremel and cut-off and you won't have to work a die handle in the confinement of that boom. Even if you hadn't mangled the ends of the bolts with pliers, chances are the last couple threads were hosed up by the bolt head twisting off. If you can get them out with a jamb nut method, might be a smart idea to chase the threads with a tap if you can get one to the holes.

Dunno where you got your longer bolts from, but there are some SAE threads that closely approximate metric threads. There is NO SAE threaded hardware used on Kubota. It's ALL metric. PERIOD. If you picked them up at your local Home Depot, chances are, the bin was contaminated (mixed metric/SAE) because they simply don't bother to keep them cleaned and sorted. Quite annoying to get home and find you have ONE bolt different and you're ONE bolt short of finishing your project.
 

je1279

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Bummer on the broken bolt. Paint in the threads in the boom before you tightened them? Hopefully there's enough of it left to use a Dremel and cut-off and you won't have to work a die handle in the confinement of that boom. Even if you hadn't mangled the ends of the bolts with pliers, chances are the last couple threads were hosed up by the bolt head twisting off. If you can get them out with a jamb nut method, might be a smart idea to chase the threads with a tap if you can get one to the holes.

Dunno where you got your longer bolts from, but there are some SAE threads that closely approximate metric threads. There is NO SAE threaded hardware used on Kubota. It's ALL metric. PERIOD. If you picked them up at your local Home Depot, chances are, the bin was contaminated (mixed metric/SAE) because they simply don't bother to keep them cleaned and sorted. Quite annoying to get home and find you have ONE bolt different and you're ONE bolt short of finishing your project.
Yeah I have had similar problems with the bulk bolts there in the past so I purchased two M6 x 40mm individually wrapped cap screws from the drawers. All I can think of is that they were low carbon and I got too aggressive trying to make it fit when tightening initially. Then when I attempted removal, game over. Once I get it out, I will probably have another go with the hard lines. I just don't understand how they were lined up correctly at both the cross member and exited correctly on the outside of the top of the loader arm but nothing I could do inside the arm itself would get the tube stays to fit around them. Frusterating as this should have been one of the easiest parts of the install.
 
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je1279

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So I'm always willing to admit responsibility for poor decisions and this is no exception. I realized today that metric bolt grades are in no way equivalent to standard bolt grades. For those unaware, a grade 5 standard bolt is your average bolt and a grade 8 is a hardened bolt. A grade 2 bolt would be used for something like a shear bolt on a snowblower auger. Well it turns out that anything less than a grade 8.8 metric bolt has the equivalence of a grade 2 standard bolt. I guess in that regard, the one that I purchased worked exactly as designed. A grade 8.8 is comparable to a grade 5 standard and a grade 10.9 is comparable to a grade 8 standard. Handy reference table attached so you avoid making the same mistakes that I have in the future.
 

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je1279

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I'm hoping to get the snapped bolt drilled out tomorrow and tonight I mocked up the hard lines with packaging tape to try to install them like this. Stay tuned...
 

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je1279

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Got some additional garage time after work today and made some more progress. Hard lines are now in and I also added flat face couplers and attached the hoses going from the hard lines to the third function valve. For others interested in this installation, I would suggest taping the hard lines as I did above and installing the upper tube stay first as that was the only way I could get them installed. Additionally, you will need to remove the forward most boom cylinder connector. The instructions do not mention to put the loader in the float position prior but that is the only way you will be able to remove it. I hope to finish the rear hydraulic connections and hoses back to the valve after Christmas. Does anyone know if this can be done without removing the tire, seat and seat bracket? Looks possible, but I'm just guessing.
 

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Oct 8, 2014
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Got some additional garage time after work today and made some more progress. Hard lines are now in and I also added flat faced couplers and attached the hoses going from the hard lines to the third function valve. For others interested in this installation, I would suggest taping the hard lines as I did above and installing the upper tube stay first as that was the only way I could get them installed. Additionally, you will need to remove the forward most boom cylinder connector. The instructions do not mention to put the loader in the float position prior but that is the only way you will be able to remove it. I hope to finish the rear hydraulic connections and hoses back to the valve after Christmas. Does anyone know if this can be done without removing the tire, seat and seat bracket? Looks possible, but I'm just guessing.
 
Oct 8, 2014
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oregon
Old member but I haven't been poking around here much lately. Search my user name for a RR install. The directions were awful since 'North' in one pic wasn't the same as 'North' in the other. I removed the seat in my L4740 but after the fact, why did I do that? Sure, it was easier but the time tradeoff wasn't worth it.
 
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je1279

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Old member but I haven't been poking around here much lately. Search my user name for a RR install. The directions were awful since 'North' in one pic wasn't the same as 'North' in the other. I removed the seat in my L4740 but after the fact, why did I do that? Sure, it was easier but the time tradeoff wasn't worth it.
Will do and thank you for the advice!
 

whitetiger

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There is NO SAE threaded hardware used on Kubota. It's ALL metric. PERIOD.
That is incorrect, there are several of the Kubota models that use some SAE hardware. Also, many of the attachments are some or all SAE hardware.
 
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je1279

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For those anxiously awaiting an answer, you can complete the installation without removing the rear tire or the seat. You will need to have small hands and be able to contort your body in inhuman ways, but it can be done. I hope to have this wrapped up tomorrow and I will post additional pictures then.
 

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je1279

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So I completed the installation this morning. No leaks and everything works as expected. Assuming you have an intermediate mechanical background this is something you should be capable of doing. Most challenging parts were getting the hard lines and tube stays on the loader arm to cooperate and trying to reinstall the banjo bolt on the rear without removing the seat or the tire. I still need to grind the parking stand a bit to get it to fit properly, but thats a minor inconvenience. All in all, I'm glad that I did it myself and look forward to being able to angling the plow blade without getting off and physically adjusting it. Another big thanks to @tthorkil as I couldn't have done it without him!
 

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