2017 BX23s - What...

[BX23S-1]

You do have gases in the fluid and the pressure changes in the fluid causes the gases to cause bubbles that then contract causing the tiny implosions that is cavitation. It is the shock waves that damage the material near the points of cavitation.

Thank you! That makes ALOT of sense to me now.

 

[whitetiger]

Here is a more detailed explanation of the corrosion/erosion of wet cylinder liners.

https://www.cumminsfiltration.com/s...oduct_lit/asia_pacific_brochures/3300963A.pdf

 

[lugbolt]

I have never ever heard or seen any sign of cavitation on any kubota and I looked hard. About zero % of them ever had a coolant flush/change other than what's in it from the factory, and if anyone has ever had a stick run through a hose they normally filled it with pond water or if they were mindful, 100% antifreeze. I can only remember ONE customer who ever wanted me to change the coolant but keep in mind he's extremely OCD, same guy asks me to wax his tractor twice a year....

Personally I think it's a non issue with kubota engines.

 

[BX23S-1]

Here is a more detailed explanation of the corrosion/erosion of wet cylinder liners.

https://www.cumminsfiltration.com/s...oduct_lit/asia_pacific_brochures/3300963A.pdf

Wowwww, great link! Thanks!

 

[GeoHorn]

This is a simple thing gone mad, and it IS very frustrating to try to find the elixir that meets the needs of the machine. These Kubotas are fine with ordinary automotive ethylene-glycol anti-freeze like original “Prestone” in the yellow plastic jug.
The confusion shows up with “Peak” and “Zerex” and colors that were supposed to mean something important and then that system seemed to be abandoned with “universal” fluids.

I’ve got two Kubotas and a John Deere engine to take care of. (Got several more engines but those are my only diesels.). The John Deere is the problem for me. It’s a JD 4239 and has a spin-on “filter’ in it’s coolant-return system. That filter has some sort of material in it that adds the appropriate amount of chemical for the ”wet sleeve” engine.... or at least I THINK it does. But the Deere dealer only tells me that I have to use a particular “color” of antifreeze..... which makes no sense in these days where the colors range from green to orange to yellow-to-PINK! The Deere dealer‘s fluid costs a ridiculous figure so when their parts guy put a jug on the counter and told me the price, I just walked out of the dealership and haven’t been back and don’t plan to return.
A friend gave me a small bottle of paper-strips which supposedly “test” for the proper amount of the necessary stuff...but I haven’t bothered since I cannot find any reliable reference as to what to do about it.... that engine runs with whatever whoever put into it whenever. (It’s an ‘87 engine that belonged to a state hwy dept which was sold years ago at auction to unknown owner who sold it to someone who sold it to me.... I think that’s correct.). There’s a sticker on it that says the coolant was changed at 1145 hrs.... but the hour meter now says “475”... so it’s all useless info.

Like the OP, I just wish someone would post a brand name and a specification I could find at NAPA AutoZone or WalMart and get on down the road.

(EDIT: So it becomes evident from an online discovery of JD’s Specs: D6210 and D4985, the former preferred.) see the next post for the text.)

 

[GeoHorn]

Diesel Engine Coolant
The engine cooling system is filled to provide year-round protection against corrosion and cylinder liner pitting, and winter freeze protection to -37°C (-34°F). If protection at lower temperatures is required, consult your John Deere dealer for recommendations.
John Deere COOL-GARD ™ Prediluted Coolant is preferred for service.
John Deere COOL-GARD Prediluted Coolant is available in a concentration of either 50% ethylene glycol or 55% propylene glycol.
Additional recommended coolants
The following engine coolant is also recommended:

• John Deere COOL-GARD Coolant Concentrate in a 40% to 60% mixture of concentrate with quality water.

John Deere COOL-GARD coolants do not require use of supplemental coolant additives, except for periodic replenishment of additives during the drain interval.
Other fully formulated coolants
Other fully formulated low silicate ethylene or propylene glycol base coolants for heavy-duty engines may be used if they meet one of the following specifications:

• ASTM D6210 prediluted (50%) coolant
• ASTM D6210 coolant concentrate in a 40% to 60% mixture of concentrate with quality water

Coolants meeting ASTM D6210 do not require use of supplemental coolant additives, except for periodic replenishment of additives during the drain interval.
Coolants requiring supplemental coolant additives[/TD]

[TD]Other low silicate ethylene glycol base coolants for heavy-duty engines may also be used if they meet one of the following specifications:

• ASTM D4985 ethylene glycol base prediluted (50%) coolant
• ASTM D4985 ethylene glycol base coolant concentrate in a 40% to 60% mixture of concentrate with quality water

Coolants meeting ASTM D4985 require an initial charge of supplemental coolant additives, formulated for protection of heavy duty diesel engines against corrosion and cylinder liner erosion and pitting. They also require periodic replenishment of additives during the drain interval.
Other coolants
It is possible that neither John Deere COOL-GARD nor coolants meeting one of the coolant standards listed above is available in the geographical area where service is performed. If these coolants are unavailable, use a coolant concentrate or prediluted coolant with a quality additive package that provides cylinder liner cavitation protection and protects the cooling system metals (cast iron, aluminum alloys, and copper alloys such as brass) from corrosion.
The additive package must be part of one of the following coolant mixtures:

• ethylene glycol or propylene glycol base prediluted (40% to 60%) coolant
• ethylene glycol or propylene glycol base coolant concentrate in a 40% to 60% mixture of concentrate with quality water

Water quality
]Water quality is important to the performance of the cooling system. Distilled, deionized, or demineralized water is recommended for mixing with ethylene glycol and propylene glycol base engine coolant concentrate.
IMPORTANT: Do not use cooling system sealing additives or antifreeze that contains sealing additives.


IMPORTANT: Do not mix ethylene glycol and propylene glycol base coolants.

 

[BX23S-1]

I gotta tell ya folks, i`m with @GeoHorn with this BS. I`m soooo tired of being a money slave to the manufacturers. But here i go going against what i just now said, and paid the big bucks at the kubota dealer for 1 GALLON of 50/50 pre-mixed coolant/anti-freeze. $25 FREAKIN DOLLARS, ARE YOU FREAKIN KIDDING MEEEEEEE...!!!!!

Because i can`t get a straight up answer, even the dealer couldnt tell me, or just wouldnt tell me because they wanted to sell me THEIR unicorn Kubota Kool-Aid, but i went ahead and just bought the OVERPRICED Kubota Kool-Aid unicorn coolant urine while i was right there. No point making an extra trip.

I dont want to take a chance on something so simple that a coolant test by kubota could cancel a warranty problem should it ever come to that. I`m one of those people that if i were to use walmart autozone or whatever brand is out there, i`d be THAT guy that will end up with a problem, then kubota would tell me to go chit in my hat because i didnt use THEIR Kubota Kool-Aid coolant.

So i sucked it up, paid for the gallon and came home with it. I only needed a touch just to put my res tank on the SAFE level mark. I`ll probably die long before i ever use the whole gallon up. But, it is what it is.

Only had to buy it once i guess. Buy once, cry once. But some of you that have much bigger coolant capacities, i feel for yah. A BX23s dosent hold alot of coolant, thank God!

 

[dlsmith]

You do have gases in the fluid and the pressure changes in the fluid causes the gases to cause bubbles that then contract causing the tiny implosions that is cavitation. It is the shock waves that damage the material near the points of cavitation.

I have seen cylinder sleeves on old NTC Cummins engines eroded completely through the liner, about 1/2" of tough cast steel, and leak water into the oil pan if the additive wasn't used.
When the engine runs, the thrust forces of the pistons on the sides of the liners move it slightly causing the cavitation. It will also erode the grooves for the lower liner sealing o-rings and destroy them too.

 

[whitetiger]

I gotta tell ya folks, i`m with @GeoHorn with this BS. I`m soooo tired of being a money slave to the manufacturers. But here i go going against what i just now said, and paid the big bucks at the kubota dealer for 1 GALLON of 50/50 pre-mixed coolant/anti-freeze. $25 FREAKIN DOLLARS, ARE YOU FREAKIN KIDDING MEEEEEEE...!!!!!

See pages 137-139 in your Operators Manual. There is no specific brand of antifreeze you have to use as long as it is EG. Change and flush every two years. The Coolant Cops are not going to get you.

Are you sure the Kubota Antifreeze you bought is 50/50 mixed? I have not seen Kubota pre mix.

 

[DustyRusty]

I will pay Kubota for some of their products that I feel are best for my tractor. Others, like filters, and fuel pumps, I will buy the least expensive for my BX, because I change them often, and I believe that a Wix filter is as good as any Kubota filter. Besides, I am absolutely certain that Kubota doesn't manufacture their own filters or fluids. It is the ASTM ( American Society for Testing and Materials ) standard that is important. If you know the ASTM standard number, you can check with most manufacturers to see if their products meet that standard. I buy Kubota Super UDT2, because it is readily available, and in comparison to tearing down the hydrostat transmission, it is inexpensive. Just like almost anything in life, there is a generic brand and a name brand. If it is a Kubota part, it might be superior to the generic brand, and you have to make the choice based on knowledge and price. Personally, my $20 fuel pump is just as good as the Kubota fuel pump. The same goes for my Baldwin oil filters, and my NAPA full synthetic engine oil. I change oil every 50 hours, and in 800 hours, my engine is still running strong.

 

[IveBeenRued]

I’m personally running Peak Final Charge NOAT in my 2018 BX23S as recommended by my dealer. Soon after getting the tractor, I did two drain and fills with distilled water and then two drain and fills with 50/50 of the new coolant just to make sure I got the old green coolant out and had proper concentrations of the new fluid after the fact. This coolant is rated at 8 years/15K hours compared to the old green coolant which is rated at 2 years/2K hours. The concentrate is available at Walmart for $12/gallon and distilled water is around a buck a gallon.

https://www.peakhd.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/PEAK_Final_Charge_NOAT_SpecSheet_1218.pdf?x38462