B2650 HST - Transmission Fluid Level Changing when Checking? Help/Clarification

[Yake-]

New owner here. I just did my 50 hrs maintenance on my B2650 HST. I feel crazy posting this issue but... I cannot get an accurate read on my transmission fluid after topping it off post-filter-change. Depending on if the tractor is cold or warmed up, the transmission fluid dip stick is giving me vastly different readings.

I called the dealer that I purchased from and their service dept said to "bring the engine to temp" when checking the fluid. The owners manual does not make it clear. When I check after warming it up, transmission fluid over flows from where the dip stick goes. When the tractor is cold, the dip stick isn't even hitting the low end of where the fluid should be.

I called a different dealer location (same chain) and their service dept tells me that the temperature of the engine shouldn't matter and the dip stick should read the same cold or warmed up. I tried to explain how I am seeing different readings and having an over flow of fluid or reading low and he didn't have any advice.

Some things to note:

• I used the Kubota recommended transmission fluid for my model from my dealer
• Tractor is on flat ground and engine is OFF when checking level
• Currently blower is attached, I have moved it up/down/side to side with the lever. It is resting on ground when checking
• 3 point hitch is all the way down

The level seems so fickle from my hands on experience. The different messages from service people are throwing me off. I don't want to use the tractor until I feel comfortable with the transmission fluid level. Any advice on what I should do? Is there a bigger problem here?

 

[DeepWoods]

When you changed your filters, how much fluid did you loose? Have you cycled all of you hydraulics to make sure any air is purged? It seems to me if your dipstick tube is overflowing, you have added to much fluid. When I check my fluid, the first time i pull the dipstick out, nothing shows on the stick. I wipe the stick clean, and reinsert, when I pull it out the second time I get it to show on the stick. It can be very hard to see, but with the right lighting on the stick, I can see the level of the fluid. I almost alway check with everything cold, and everything in a down position. Dont really know what might be going on with your fluid level, but if you get that much difference between warm and cold, something isnt quite right.

 

[Rcflyer330]

Here is what I have observed with my 2650 hydraulic fluid. I have checked it hot, cold, 3 point up, 3 point down, and front attachment is either on its stands (front broom) or on a 2 inch piece of wood/ foam block (blower). This is at 93hrs on the clock and I did what the owners manual said for the 50hr service.
When cold and 3 point up fluid is half way up the stick.
Cold 3 point down it reads full.
Hot 3 point up it reads full.
Hot 3 point down its reads just over full.

Engine oil on the other hand dosnt seem to move at all hot or cold.

So as long as the fluid reads between the marks hot and cold you should be fine.

 

[NHSleddog]

I have the same model tractor and do not see a lot of difference on the stick warm/cold maybe 1/4". I just did the 400hr on mine.

 

[Yake-]

Thanks for all the input and other experiences to refer to.

To answer the question of how much fluid did I remove, I'm not quite sure. I will say that since it was my first time I initially did drain extra off until I realized I was not doing a whole transmission change.

My most recent checks today have been with a cold engine and the dip stick is dry. I am concerned about starting the engine at this point. I suppose I should add more transmission fluid to get the level within the appropriate range...

 

[RCW]

Maybe I missed it, but how much variation do you see on the dipstick; 1/4”, 1/2”, etc. ??

Do the variations stay within the acceptable tolerance of the dipstick? (EDIT: Saw it was off the stick one time. )

I use a constant, engine/tractor cold, level surface. If it reads full or so, I’m good.

For what it’s worth, it seems many HST dipsticks read from full to off the stick in a quart or two. Capacity of my little BX is about 3+ gallons. A 1/4”-1/2” of variation is inconsequential. That amount of variation may equate to a cup or two in a total amount of gallons.

My tip is be consistent with checking level....my recollection is hydraulic fluid should be checked cold.

 

[i7win7]

Apply a film of oil on the o-ring seal and make sure it's fully seated before pulling it for level readings. I check mine before starting, minor leaks coupling hydraulic hoses.

 

[whitetiger]

New owner here. I just did my 50 hrs maintenance on my B2650 HST. I feel crazy posting this issue but... I cannot get an accurate read on my transmission fluid after topping it off post-filter-change. Depending on if the tractor is cold or warmed up, the transmission fluid dip stick is giving me vastly different readings.

I called the dealer that I purchased from and their service dept said to "bring the engine to temp" when checking the fluid. The owners manual does not make it clear. When I check after warming it up, transmission fluid over flows from where the dip stick goes. When the tractor is cold, the dip stick isn't even hitting the low end of where the fluid should be.

I called a different dealer location (same chain) and their service dept tells me that the temperature of the engine shouldn't matter and the dip stick should read the same cold or warmed up. I tried to explain how I am seeing different readings and having an over flow of fluid or reading low and he didn't have any advice.

Some things to note:

• I used the Kubota recommended transmission fluid for my model from my dealer
• Tractor is on flat ground and engine is OFF when checking level
• Currently blower is attached, I have moved it up/down/side to side with the lever. It is resting on ground when checking
• 3 point hitch is all the way down

The level seems so fickle from my hands on experience. The different messages from service people are throwing me off. I don't want to use the tractor until I feel comfortable with the transmission fluid level. Any advice on what I should do? Is there a bigger problem here?

If the oil is near the full mark cold, you run the tractor and then have oil running out of the dipstick tube right after a filter change tells me that you are sucking air at one of the filters. Check your old filters to see if the rubber seal is still on them, one may have stuck to the tractor.

Did you use Kubota filters or an "it will screw on" filter?
How tight did you tighten the new filters?

 

[Yake-]

I did use a Kubota filter and I am sure that I got the old rubber seal, because I did the engine oil filter first and noticed that seal stuck behind. I knew to look for that when I did the transmission filter. I will definitely double check this though.

Here are two videos to demonstrate the issue as of today.
Checking it first thing in the morning, tractor has been off all night.

Running for 10 minutes at ~1260 rpm and re-checking. Had to cut the video short when I realized I didn't have a bucket under the transmission, although I didn't expect it to erupt immediately like this...

 

[NHSleddog]

NOT NORMAL.

 

[RCW]

NOT NORMAL.

Holy smokes - I agree 100%.

Strike the nonsense I posted before, that's for sure...

Proves a picture is worth a thousand words....

 

[Yake-]

It sucks to know something is wrong but at the same time it is relieving. I do not see how I could have caused this.

My question is, how do I know that this issue was not always present? I never thought to check the transmission fluid of a new tractor... For all I know if I removed the dipstick when I first got it this could have happened.

Should I be reaching out to the dealership at this point?

 

[kubotafreak]

If the oil is near the full mark cold, you run the tractor and then have oil running out of the dipstick tube right after a filter change tells me that you are sucking air at one of the filters. Check your old filters to see if the rubber seal is still on them, one may have stuck to the tractor.

Did you use Kubota filters or an "it will screw on" filter?
How tight did you tighten the new filters?

Whitetiger is on to something,

Look for wetness around seals and orings to find the source of the air leak. The theory is the air is mixing with the fluid creating bubbles, thus increasing the fluid level. Proof would be if the fluid is more frothy-white/opaque when ran vs sitting for a day or so? Fluid should be clear in either situation.

Simple place like whitetiger stated is filters. Sometimes the oring sticks and a new filter is installed over the top of the old oring. My other suggestion is the suction line to the pump.

v/r,

 

[RCW]

whitetiger earlier mentioned sucking air. He's a very smart guy.

Did this stuff happen before the filter change?

Also - shot in the dark, but an HST is vented. Is the vent plugged by a mud dauber or similar? Again - shot in the dark.

 

[nbryan]

Likely not the issue, but I found that when I check the hydraulic oil level the dipstick needs to be pulled out the first time, cleaned and re-inserted, then the oil level becomes visible on it when pulled out again.
The first time the dipstick is pulled, it it will come out DRY.
That is because the oil level can go below the dipstick level when the tractor is running and hydraulics in use, even though the oil level is correct when parked. Once the oil drops below the dipstick, it will not refill the dipstick tube even though the oil level is correct.
That is because the o-ring seal at the top of the dipstick prevents air escaping when the oil level rises to a resting state, so the oil level in the tube remains below the bottom of the dipstick.
Just remove the dipstick, then reinsert and pull to check thelevel.
This issue had me running in circles for a few months after I bought my new tractor until the cause became apparent.

 

[Yake-]

Thanks to all the posters here so far for the feed back. It's hugely helpful and appreciated.

I did just double check my transmission filter for an extra seal from the old one. I confirmed that the seal did come off with the original filter as I had thought. It was set on there nice and snugly.

At this point I have contacted the dealer and am awaiting to hear from management about potentially getting someone over here to check it out in person. I am lucky to have a dealer in my town.

Once I have a real answer of the issue, I will update this thread with the solution and maybe it will help someone else out someday.

 

[DeepWoods]

Likely not the issue, but I found that when I check the hydraulic oil level the dipstick needs to be pulled out the first time, cleaned and re-inserted, then the oil level becomes visible on it when pulled out again.
The first time the dipstick is pulled, it it will come out DRY.
That is because the oil level can go below the dipstick level when the tractor is running and hydraulics in use, even though the oil level is correct when parked. Once the oil drops below the dipstick, it will not refill the dipstick tube even though the oil level is correct.
That is because the o-ring seal at the top of the dipstick prevents air escaping when the oil level rises to a resting state, so the oil level in the tube remains below the bottom of the dipstick.
Just remove the dipstick, then reinsert and pull to check thelevel.
This issue had me running in circles for a few months after I bought my new tractor until the cause became apparent.

Thank you for this explanation. It is exactly what I described earlier in this thread. Now I understand what is happening when I check my fluid level, and makes perfect sense. I always thought I was losing fluid, but after checking the second time, it was always spot on.

 

[Yake-]

Just updating this - I think that the issue is resolved for now. I ended up speaking with the manager of service at my dealer about this issue. He said that the vent may be blocked - which I think someone else said in this thread. To be specific, the vent in question was the little black rubber "J" shaped vent that is near the transmission dip stick. I did not know this was a vent until this point. I checked it, and sure enough the vent was plugged with a lot of dry mud. Since dislodging it, I have been checking the transmission regularly and it has leveled out. The readings are no longer all over the place. Thanks again to all who responded so I knew what I was seeing was abnormal!

 

[DeepWoods]

Just updating this - I think that the issue is resolved for now. I ended up speaking with the manager of service at my dealer about this issue. He said that the vent may be blocked - which I think someone else said in this thread. To be specific, the vent in question was the little black rubber "J" shaped vent that is near the transmission dip stick. I did not know this was a vent until this point. I checked it, and sure enough the vent was plugged with a lot of dry mud. Since dislodging it, I have been checking the transmission regularly and it has leveled out. The readings are no longer all over the place. Thanks again to all who responded so I knew what I was seeing was abnormal!

Thanks for letting us know what the problem turned out to be. Just another little tidbit of information to stick in my brain. Now if I can just remember it, if it ever happens to my tractor. Although, with my poor memory, there aint much hope.