anyone know where i can get a pto shaft for a fs 1020 rototiller, new or used. google has failed me! thx
Good idea. Here are some photos. One end of the shaft is just a regular pto connector. The other end has an adapter welded on to connect to a spline that connects to the rototiller. That end has 13 spline teeth and a key channel. I think you can see that end clearly in some of the photos.It might help if you described the ends and stated the approximate length required. For example my rototiller shaft is female PTO shaft on both ends. I don't recall the length offhand.
I checked them out online but I couldn't find one from their pictures and their descriptions are not detailed enough for me to tell. I will have to take it in to get help.Tractor Supply or pretty much any other agri supply store has PTO shafts.
thank!. never heard of a driveline shop but i will see if i can locate one here in south cental ky.Your pictures seem to indicate you already HAVE the driveline but it's broken. Take it to a driveline shop, they can probably repair or replace it. Out West here I'd take it to Six States Distributors. I have no idea where you're located or what's handy to you.
yeah. all of a sudden -- notill!It looks like the thinwall 'tube' ripped away, maybe 'something' made the tiller stop REAL QUICK ? !!
Any machine shop should be able to weld a new 'tube' to the 'ends'.
i was surprised at how thin the tubing was. a standard pto staft would probably worked just as well but probably cost more. maybe a heavier tube could be used. i don't weld but maybe 1/4 in could replace the thin walled original.It looks like the thinwall 'tube' ripped away, maybe 'something' made the tiller stop REAL QUICK ? !!
Any machine shop should be able to weld a new 'tube' to the 'ends'.
That may have saved you a major failure. You'd probably be surprised how thin an automobile/truck drive shaft is. A hot rod shop can point you to a drive shaft shop.yeah. all of a sudden -- notill!
i was surprised at how thin the tubing was. a standard pto staft would probably worked just as well but probably cost more. maybe a heavier tube could be used. i don't weld but maybe 1/4 in could replace the thin walled original.
there is no sheer pin or slip clutch. it goes from pto to shaft to gearbox. maybe the thin metal IS the sheer pin! i bought this rototiller used about 5 years ago and there was already a split in the shaft,but it lasted 5 years that way. i only use it to rototill a few acres so maybe that's why it lasted as long as it didThat may have saved you a major failure. You'd probably be surprised how thin an automobile/truck drive shaft is. A hot rod shop can point you to a drive shaft shop.
In the meantime, you need to find your shear pin or slip clutch and get it working right before you wreck the gearbox or drive, if you haven't already.
If there’s no slip clutch or shear pin you really need to add a slip clutch in the driveline to keep from tearing up your tractor, tiller, or both. This time the thin, already compromised tube was the weakest thing in the system. Next time might be something a lot worse. The slip clutch does take up space in the system so you’d need to account for that in the new shaft length if you add one.there is no sheer pin or slip clutch. it goes from pto to shaft to gearbox. maybe the thin metal IS the sheer pin! i bought this rototiller used about 5 years ago and there was already a split in the shaft,but it lasted 5 years that way. i only use it to rototill a few acres so maybe that's why it lasted as long as it did
That would work on the tractor end if there is enough room for it. Finding one to fit the tiller end spline might be tough. Or you might get the machine shop to cut the yoke and weld the clutch in between while they're making a drive shaft.If there’s no slip clutch or shear pin you really need to add a slip clutch in the driveline to keep from tearing up your tractor, tiller, or both. This time the thin, already compromised tube was the weakest thing in the system. Next time might be something a lot worse. The slip clutch does take up space in the system so you’d need to account for that in the new shaft length if you add one.
Not saying this is sized right for your application but in case you don’t know what I’m referring to, this is an example:
Slip Clutch-PTO Slip Clutch
This PTO slip clutch includes an 8 bolt hub assembly, surrounding the 6 spline shear pin and it can be used with a 4, 5 or 6 series PTO shaft.www.agrisupply.com
The folks that sell these things can assist with proper sizing for your application. If you have a good dealership you deal with, that’s not a bad place to start with the slip clutch.
Maybe check for a shear pin after the gearbox? It seems highly unlikely that anybody would make a PTO powered attachment without some sort of protection.there is no sheer pin or slip clutch. it goes from pto to shaft to gearbox.