Tire Chains For Mud???

[NCL4701]

I see a lot of folks on here using chains for snow. See some suppliers such as TireChains.com with varieties of chains that are also rated for mud. Anyone using chains for mud? If yes any thoughts or advice?

I have clay and R4’s. 95% of what I’m doing the R4’s are preferable as there’s a lot of mowing and loader work. The other 5% is pulling a trailer loaded with firewood across two muddy creeks and up rather steep hills. Not that the tractor doesn’t get it done but wondering if chaining the rears (or all 4) would give better traction or just be a waste of money. Even if I could I would NOT switch to R1’s due to the more routine mowing duties that involve quite a bit of maneuvering (and turf damage with R1’s). Been there and done that with the Ford the Kubota replaced so R1 v R4 isn’t a question for me.

 

[BigG]

Yes chains will help you in the mud. But you must remember they are a pain to put on. If you do go with chains you will need to find a style that is NOT the normal "ladder" looking style. They will ride down into the space between the tire lugs. There are several different styles to choose from and of course they cost more then the ladder type.

Aquiline MPC Tractor Tire Chains | Tire Chains 'R' Us

Shop Aquiline MPC Tractor Tire Chains. Free shipping on orders over $75. Note: These chains are for Tractors only. They will not fit a Skid Steer. Image is for reference only, tire/wheel/rubber tensioners not included. Chains only. Chains are sold in pairs (2 chains) and will cover two tires..

www.tirechainsrus.com

 

[mikester]

Chains on mud all day long - check out logging equipment. I'd go with euro style chains with cleats. Great for re-surfacing your asphalt and garage floors.

R1's are better for traction, you need to decide between traction and floatation. Or find an older tractor with R1's and use it as your second tractor for hauling wood.

 

[SDT]

I see a lot of folks on here using chains for snow. See some suppliers such as TireChains.com with varieties of chains that are also rated for mud. Anyone using chains for mud? If yes any thoughts or advice?

I have clay and R4’s. 95% of what I’m doing the R4’s are preferable as there’s a lot of mowing and loader work. The other 5% is pulling a trailer loaded with firewood across two muddy creeks and up rather steep hills. Not that the tractor doesn’t get it done but wondering if chaining the rears (or all 4) would give better traction or just be a waste of money. Even if I could I would NOT switch to R1’s due to the more routine mowing duties that involve quite a bit of maneuvering (and turf damage with R1’s). Been there and done that with the Ford the Kubota replaced so R1 v R4 isn’t a question for me.

Yes, tire chains will help enormously in mud.

Follow the recommendations on the tirechains.com website regarding type of chains.

I have 2-link ladder type chains for both of my smallest Kubotas, used only for snow and nonly in some conditions.

Be advised that tire chains usually (always?) require modifications for proper fit but properly fitted and installed they will not move and no tensioners, etc., are necessary.

Yes, you will struggle to properly fit and install a set initially but subsequent installations will be much easier.

SDT

 

[GreensvilleJay]

re: But you must remember they are a pain to put on.

really ???

I've never had a problem. easier to put on than any 3pt implement !!

If you think they're a 'pain', try getting a stuck-in-the-mud tractor out... spending 10 minutes putting chains on won't seem to be painful....

 

[Henro]

As mentioned above, with R4 tires, simple ladder chains fall between the tire lugs a good bit. I kept my chains on for ten years probable, on my R4 tires. Finally took them back off only because my clearance was so close that if something shifted they would hit the fenders.

Even with the chains falling between the lugs a lot, they still made the R4s perform better in mud that bare tires.

I do not have that much mud and we have not had much snow since I took the chains off. I may regret not having the chains on if we get a lot of snow this year...

I would buy chains that are designed so they do not fall in between the tire lugs if I really thought I needed chains. Ladder chains only advantage is price from what I can see...

 

[SDT]

As mentioned above, with R4 tires, simple ladder chains fall between the tire lugs a good bit. I kept my chains on for ten years probable, on my R4 tires. Finally took them back off only because my clearance was so close that if something shifted they would hit the fenders.

Even with the chains falling between the lugs a lot, they still made the R4s perform better in mud that bare tires.

I do not have that much mud and we have not had much snow since I took the chains off. I may regret not having the chains on if we get a lot of snow this year...

I would buy chains that are designed so they do not fall in between the tire lugs if I really thought I needed chains. Ladder chains only advantage is price from what I can see...

Two-link ladder chains (without cleats) are much less damaging to pavement than most other styles yet do not ride badly.

They do not fall between the cleats of R-4 tires badly if properly sized and installed.

SDT

 

[NCL4701]

Appreciate all of the advice. One more question: Is it worth the extra trouble and money to chain the fronts or just chain the backs where most of the traction is?

My father has a 9N Ford and Farmall H, both with R1’s of course but even with the R4’s the 4wd Kubota will outpull either of them any day on any surface, partly because it just weighs a lot more. Not excited about a fourth tractor. If I had the ideal stable of equipment I’d have gotten a smaller machine in the 25hp range with turf tires and something closer to 60hp with R1’s. That’s just a lot of money in purchase, maintenance, and insurance that was too much to justify. The L4701 with R4’s was a compromise in both machine and tires that will get everything done but not “ideal” for everything. The wood hauling is a short time project that usually lasts about 1 to 2 weeks a year at most. I was thinking I could get a couple of loads of rip rap from the local quarry to improve the crossings but if I can get chains for around $1000 to use once a year, that would be cheaper than the amount of rip rap I’d need. If we’re crossing with the 4 wheelers or Mule or even the 9N or Kubota without 4000lb of wood in tow, they’re fine as they are.

I’m thinking what I’ll probably do is give it a go without any improvements and if it ain’t working, get some chains. I do usually park it in a building with a concrete floor but for a couple of weeks it should hurt its feelings too much to park it in the dirt floored pole shed.

 

[SDT]

Appreciate all of the advice. One more question: Is it worth the extra trouble and money to chain the fronts or just chain the backs where most of the traction is?

My father has a 9N Ford and Farmall H, both with R1’s of course but even with the R4’s the 4wd Kubota will outpull either of them any day on any surface, partly because it just weighs a lot more. Not excited about a fourth tractor. If I had the ideal stable of equipment I’d have gotten a smaller machine in the 25hp range with turf tires and something closer to 60hp with R1’s. That’s just a lot of money in purchase, maintenance, and insurance that was too much to justify. The L4701 with R4’s was a compromise in both machine and tires that will get everything done but not “ideal” for everything. The wood hauling is a short time project that usually lasts about 1 to 2 weeks a year at most. I was thinking I could get a couple of loads of rip rap from the local quarry to improve the crossings but if I can get chains for around $1000 to use once a year, that would be cheaper than the amount of rip rap I’d need. If we’re crossing with the 4 wheelers or Mule or even the 9N or Kubota without 4000lb of wood in tow, they’re fine as they are.

I’m thinking what I’ll probably do is give it a go without any improvements and if it ain’t working, get some chains. I do usually park it in a building with a concrete floor but for a couple of weeks it should hurt its feelings too much to park it in the dirt floored pole shed.

Front chains are very helpful if steering is an issue, especially in snow.

If traction is the only problem, save your money. You can always use the steering brakes when you have steering problems.

SDT

 

[Henro]

Two-link ladder chains (without cleats) are much less damaging to pavement than most other styles yet do not ride badly.

They do not fall between the cleats of R-4 tires badly if properly sized and installed.

SDT

I do not recall if my chains are two link but think they may be. Mine do fall between the lugs pretty badly. Love to see a picture of ladder chains that do not mostly fall between R4 lugs...If I had double the cross chains I think the result would be the same.

(looking again I bet they are 4 link ladder chains...)

Still better than no chains though...

 

[NCL4701]

I do not recall if my chains are two link but think they may be. Mine do fall between the lugs pretty badly. Love to see a picture of ladder chains that do not mostly fall between R4 lugs...If I had double the cross chains I think the result would be the same.

(looking again I bet they are 4 link ladder chains...)

Still better than no chains though...

View attachment 50947

Obviously I’m no expert on tire chains but for a picture of something that doesn’t mostly fall between the lugs, this is the general type of chain configuration I was looking into.

Just looking at them they don’t look like the would fall in between the tire cleats. The also look like they’d shred asphalt but we don’t have pavement so that’s not an issue.

 

[BigG]

Appreciate all of the advice. One more question: Is it worth the extra trouble and money to chain the fronts or just chain the backs where most of the traction is?

My father has a 9N Ford and Farmall H, both with R1’s of course but even with the R4’s the 4wd Kubota will outpull either of them any day on any surface, partly because it just weighs a lot more. Not excited about a fourth tractor. If I had the ideal stable of equipment I’d have gotten a smaller machine in the 25hp range with turf tires and something closer to 60hp with R1’s. That’s just a lot of money in purchase, maintenance, and insurance that was too much to justify. The L4701 with R4’s was a compromise in both machine and tires that will get everything done but not “ideal” for everything. The wood hauling is a short time project that usually lasts about 1 to 2 weeks a year at most. I was thinking I could get a couple of loads of rip rap from the local quarry to improve the crossings but if I can get chains for around $1000 to use once a year, that would be cheaper than the amount of rip rap I’d need. If we’re crossing with the 4 wheelers or Mule or even the 9N or Kubota without 4000lb of wood in tow, they’re fine as they are.

I’m thinking what I’ll probably do is give it a go without any improvements and if it ain’t working, get some chains. I do usually park it in a building with a concrete floor but for a couple of weeks it should hurt its feelings too much to park it in the dirt floored pole shed.

The link I sent you shows the chains for 17.5 - 24 for $847 shipping included.

 

[NCL4701]

The link I sent you shows the chains for 17.5 - 24 for $847 shipping included.

I do like the square link with the crossbars on the Aquilines you linked. And the price appears reasonable. Appreciate the info.

 

[mikester]

Appreciate all of the advice. One more question: Is it worth the extra trouble and money to chain the fronts or just chain the backs where most of the traction is?

My father has a 9N Ford and Farmall H, both with R1’s of course but even with the R4’s the 4wd Kubota will outpull either of them any day on any surface, partly because it just weighs a lot more. Not excited about a fourth tractor. If I had the ideal stable of equipment I’d have gotten a smaller machine in the 25hp range with turf tires and something closer to 60hp with R1’s. That’s just a lot of money in purchase, maintenance, and insurance that was too much to justify. The L4701 with R4’s was a compromise in both machine and tires that will get everything done but not “ideal” for everything. The wood hauling is a short time project that usually lasts about 1 to 2 weeks a year at most. I was thinking I could get a couple of loads of rip rap from the local quarry to improve the crossings but if I can get chains for around $1000 to use once a year, that would be cheaper than the amount of rip rap I’d need. If we’re crossing with the 4 wheelers or Mule or even the 9N or Kubota without 4000lb of wood in tow, they’re fine as they are.

I’m thinking what I’ll probably do is give it a go without any improvements and if it ain’t working, get some chains. I do usually park it in a building with a concrete floor but for a couple of weeks it should hurt its feelings too much to park it in the dirt floored pole shed.

On a 4WD and towing in mud chain all four tires or rears only. On ice I chain my fronts only for snow blowing and I don't tow with it. I wouldn't do that if I was in your situation, too much torque on the front end.

 

[edritchey]

Always better traction with a correctly installed set of chains...

 

[SDT]

I do not recall if my chains are two link but think they may be. Mine do fall between the lugs pretty badly. Love to see a picture of ladder chains that do not mostly fall between R4 lugs...If I had double the cross chains I think the result would be the same.

(looking again I bet they are 4 link ladder chains...)

Still better than no chains though...

View attachment 50947

The chains in the photo look to be 2-link ladder type but they are not tight enough and not properly fitted.

SDT

 

[SDT]

Obviously I’m no expert on tire chains but for a picture of something that doesn’t mostly fall between the lugs, this is the general type of chain configuration I was looking into. View attachment 50948
Just looking at them they don’t look like the would fall in between the tire cleats. The also look like they’d shred asphalt but we don’t have pavement so that’s not an issue.

GREAT for traction but do not go near asphalt or concrete.

SDT

 

[Henro]

The chains in the photo look to be 2-link ladder type but they are not tight enough and not properly fitted.

SDT

They are not on the tractor now, but could you explain further how chains like this would be properly fitted? They were quite tight, and I was using the spring type tensioners. To get the springs on I had to use a pipe through the center circle, with the end over a lug nut (for leverage), to be able to get the springs installed.

I can’t imagine how I could’ve made them tighter without using some kind of mechanical turnbuckle set up in place of .the springs.

How would one fit ladder chains to prevent them from slipping off the R4 lugs and into the grooves during use? Seems like it would be near impossible for me to accomplish.

Please give further details as it would be helpful if/when I put the chains back on. Likely helpful to others as well.

 

[SDT]

They are not on the tractor now, but could you explain further how chains like this would be properly fitted? They were quite tight, and I was using the spring type tensioners. To get the springs on I had to use a pipe through the center circle, with the end over a lug nut (for leverage), to be able to get the springs installed.

I can’t imagine how I could’ve made them tighter without using some kind of mechanical turnbuckle set up in place of .the springs.

How would one fit ladder chains to prevent them from slipping off the R4 lugs and into the grooves during use? Seems like it would be near impossible for me to accomplish.

Please give further details as it would be helpful if/when I put the chains back on. Likely helpful to others as well.

The chains as installed appear to be too large for the tires, both width and (hard to see) length.

The cross links should end near the base of the lugs, well away from the rims. Perhaps you can rectify this by removing some length from the circumferential chains (perhaps a cross link or two also, but cannot tell), perhaps not. DO NOT cut chains before test fitting at least once and preferably twice.

I have rarely (never?) bought a set of tractor tire chains that did not need modification, sometimes major modification, upon initial installation. Manufacturers manufacture tire chains to fit multiple tire sizes so compromises are (almost) inevitable.

This is why initial installation is critical and why I stated in a previous post that one would struggle upon fitting/initial installation.

Recently, I spent about four hours fitting and initially installing a set of rear (perhaps one hour for fronts) tire chains for my B3350 but the effort was time well spent.

The chains now fit very tightly, do not move regardless of load, do not contact the fenders, do not ride into the tire grooves (much) except near the tire edges, and cannot be installed loosely because I have removed excess length. They are simply too short to be installed loosely.

Subsequent installations can be done in about one hour. Yes, I find it necessary to attempt to lock the circumferential chain ratchets multiple times as I repetitively move side chains about to gain length and I do lie on the ground while doinig this. One should expect to spend more time to install tire chains on larger tires for multiple reasons, especially the weight of the chains.

If one expects to install tractor tire chains quickly, even for a B2650/3350 sized tire, one should not expect to achieve proper fit/installation and one should expect the need of tensioners, etc.

SDT

 

[leveraddict]

I cant believe the prices on chains! Dang expensive!