Finally had to replace the cooling fan on my 2008 BX2660 with just under 500 hours.
Not an easy thing, but not too bad.
If you are about to do this on a BX2660 be aware of the following:
I keep my tractors pretty clean, but the amount of dirt built up under the floor pan, and packed around the top of the transmission was amazing.
Since I had it apart I serviced both front and rear CV joints… Funny I had a slight vibration that I had posted about here on the forum a few years back. Seems most folks thought it was my phone in my back pocket or my imagination. It came and went but was there when the tractor was sitting still or moving. That vibration has gone away now.
A LOT of work for a $6.50 fan. But it gave me a chance to service and clean my tractor.
M
Not an easy thing, but not too bad.
If you are about to do this on a BX2660 be aware of the following:
- Some you tube videos show (I believe a BX25 series) the coupler is in two pieces and bolts on in front of the fan. This is NOT the case with the BX26 series. It is a solid piece containing the CV joint and the whole thing slides onto the transmission splined shaft. The drive shaft, with splines and the collar with the CV balls fit into this one piece. The fan bolts to this solid piece.
- There is not enough room to slide the shaft fwd without moving the engine fwd 2 to 3 inches. Again you tube videos show a piece mounted to the back of the engine that can be removed to gain space, this is not so with the 26 series. The CV coupler bolts to the engine, and again the splined shaft with the 4 balls slide into this coupler.
- Lifting and moving the engine fwd 3 inches is not hard at all, but you must remove the fwd motor mounts (easy thing, 2 nuts per side and it is free) and just the top nuts on the aft motor mounts.
- You do NOT need to disconnect any hoses etc from the engine to move it fwd 3 inches.
- Removing the mat first makes it easier to remove the floor pan.
- Don’t forget to replace the little O rings under each ball in the CV joints.
- The handles on either side of the fenders have bolts coming up from the bottom into brass inserts in the handle base, the aftermost two of these bolts need to be removed to remove the fenders (the fwd ones do not need to be removed). On my tractor these inserts spun free with the bolts. Once out I used JB weld to re secure them into the handles.
- The MMMower height adjuster knob and the hyd lift flow valve knobs simply pull off.
I keep my tractors pretty clean, but the amount of dirt built up under the floor pan, and packed around the top of the transmission was amazing.
Since I had it apart I serviced both front and rear CV joints… Funny I had a slight vibration that I had posted about here on the forum a few years back. Seems most folks thought it was my phone in my back pocket or my imagination. It came and went but was there when the tractor was sitting still or moving. That vibration has gone away now.
A LOT of work for a $6.50 fan. But it gave me a chance to service and clean my tractor.
M
