Water in Hydraulic fluid

[tom39]

My new-to-me 2010 RTV1100 has water in the hydraulic fluid. I am not sure how the prior owner got it in there but the oil is a milky color and now I have to figure out how to get it out.
My initial thought was to do a couple fluid changes but at $96 a 5-gallon bucket for Kubota UDT2 that process would get fairly pricey quite quickly. So I was wondering if had anyone had any thoughts on or know of any ill effects that would result if I were to use the TSC Travelers Universal Tractor Trans/Hydraulic fluid to flush the system a few times and then the last fluid change use the Kubota UDT2 fluid. TSC Travelers Universal Tractor Trans/Hydraulic fluid is only $39 for a 5-gallon bucket and I could get 3 change outs with 2 buckets.

Thanks in advance,
Tom

 

[bx tractorjoe]

Are you seeing a milky color through a sight glass? If so the one on my l2501 also looked like that.. turns out it is the sight glass so you can see the level clearly

 

[mikester]

Is the oil milky?

Get the machine hydraulic oil hot, drain all the fluids, change the filter and use the proper stuff. Run the machine to get the oil hot again to drive off any residual moisture.

If you never run the machine long enough to get everything hot and if you leave the machine parked outdoors in the elements you will have moisture problems.

 

[tom39]

Are you seeing a milky color through a sight glass? If so the one on my l2501 also looked like that.. turns out it is the sight glass so you can see the level clearly

Yes the oil is a milky yellow white color. Unfortunately, I have verified that the oil is throughout the entire system.

Thank you
Tom

Is the oil milky?

Get the machine hydraulic oil hot, drain all the fluids, change the filter and use the proper stuff. Run the machine to get the oil hot again to drive off any residual moisture.

If you never run the machine long enough to get everything hot and if you leave the machine parked outdoors in the elements you will have moisture problems.

My plan was to drain and fill the system a few times to flush out the water. I purchased the machine less than 2 weeks ago and knew that there was an issue and that it would have to be addressed. As far as I know, the prior owner parked the machine outside and not allowing the machine to run long enough to get hot may be the reason for the water. I really do not know.
I have purchased all new Kubota filters and oil but was wondering if anyone has used a cheaper oil to flush a system. In the end, the running oil would be the Kubota UDT2.

Thank you
Tom

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I'd probably run for an hour or more, USING it( drive around NOT idling..) to be sure everything is hot.... then drain the oil. When it's 'ready' to refill, STOP. Put another pan under the drain hole and walk away for a day,at least overnight ! You may be surprised how much MORE oil comes out. I did this to a JD TT40 HST and got another 1/2cup or so of 'oil'. Depending on floor slope, tire air pressures, etc. you may want to jackup, to get more oil to flow out of the drain. Be sure to clean the fill plug/dipstick, remove any oily white buildup and inside the filler neck BEFORE adding the new oil.

 

[Kennyd4110]

Here is my take....the cheap oil can't do any worse damage than the watery crap you have in there now, use it to flush the system a few times before putting in the good stuff.

 

[tom39]

I'd probably run for an hour or more, USING it( drive around NOT idling..) to be sure everything is hot.... then drain the oil. When it's 'ready' to refill, STOP. Put another pan under the drain hole and walk away for a day,at least overnight ! You may be surprised how much MORE oil comes out. I did this to a JD TT40 HST and got another 1/2cup or so of 'oil'. Depending on floor slope, tire air pressures, etc. you may want to jackup, to get more oil to flow out of the drain. Be sure to clean the fill plug/dipstick, remove any oily white buildup and inside the filler neck BEFORE adding the new oil.

Last night I pulled the lines for the snow plow and blew them out with compressed air. Your post got me thinking that I may just disconnect all lines and pull all of the cylinders and clear those out too. The reservoir tank is only held in with 1 strap and has 2 lines going to it. I may pull the tank and flush it out with some cleaner.

Thanks for your help
Tom

 

[tom39]

Here is my take....the cheap oil can't do any worse damage than the watery crap you have in there now, use it to flush the system a few times before putting in the good stuff.

That is a great point! Flushing with new cheap oil is way better than the watered-down Kubota oil that is in it now .

Thanks for your help,
Tom

 

[lugbolt]

i was gonna make suggestions until it turned into another oil war

im out

 

[Kennyd4110]

i was gonna make suggestions until it turned into another oil war

im out

Really? What "war" is going on?

 

[tom39]

I thought I would add a progress report.

I have removed the hydraulic tank and filter and started to drain some of the lines. The fluid was much more milky than I thought but I am hopeful that it has not caused too much wear on the machine.

Additionally, this process has given me the opportunity to reroute some hydraulic lines and wiring and clean a few things up; like the field mouse nest that set up shop on the side of the hydraulic tank and started to rust the bottom seam of the tank and the snow plow hydraulic lines that were run through the cabin equalization vent.

In this pic is the cavity where the tank lives. At this point, I have removed all of the mouse nest material and droppings and wiped that surfaces clean. It is not really seen in the pic but right under the hydraulic tank suction tube the finished surface of the metal has released itself from the frame and will need to be cleaned and repainted.

Here is a pic of the tank. I didn't take a pic of the before but the bottom seam is were the nest laid and began to start the rusting process. Fortunately I was able to catch it before it got to the point that it caused the tank to leak. I am not sure what kind of paint was used originally on the tank but I used what I had and it was a flat black heat paint that I bought for my BBQ grill. It actually matched up very well and there is no noticeable difference between factory paint and the Rust-Oleum.

This is the inside of the tank after I cleaned it out. I didn't use anything special, just some brake clean in a spray can. The interesting thing is the weld spatter in the tank.

Here is a pic of the oil that I drained from the tank. It is a lot milkier than I hoped it would be.

This is a pic of the plow hydraulic lines that I rerouted that were originally run through the vent (the square holes right below the two lines). I had drilled the firewall and added some grommets. Rerouting the hoses will make the vent functioning again but because of the number of years that the lines were in place the rubber flap was ruined and the flap had to be replaced. That is why the hole is open at the moment the pic was taken and you can see thorough the firewall. My guess is that the install was completed by the selling dealership and they took the easy way out.

Lastly, here is a pic of the lines rerouted and laid flat in the chase. I don't have a pic of the before but be assured that it didn't look very pretty.

Thanks for looking,
Tom

 

[SidecarFlip]

Only aspect of the diesel Kubota side by side's I don't care for is the top speed. My wife bought a Kubota 850 GX and it's top speed is just under 50. and it has all kind of power. In fact, I use it for my spray rig and pull a 12 foot wide tine harrow with it in high range. Basically the same chassis and floor pan as yours, just a twin overhead cam gas engine and a CVT 2 speed trans with selectable 4wd.. No snow plow, just a winch and I installed it and did it right. Dropped the skid pans and ran the cables underneath.

 

[tom39]

Only aspect of the diesel Kubota side by side's I don't care for is the top speed. My wife bought a Kubota 850 GX and it's top speed is just under 50. and it has all kind of power. In fact, I use it for my spray rig and pull a 12 foot wide tine harrow with it in high range. Basically the same chassis and floor pan as yours, just a twin overhead cam gas engine and a CVT 2 speed trans with selectable 4wd.. No snow plow, just a winch and I installed it and did it right. Dropped the skid pans and ran the cables underneath.

The 850 GX Sidekick is a very nice machine and fast for sure. I had looked at one during my search but what for what my intention for a machine was, having the factory full cab was a better fit for what I was looking to do with it.

Thank you,
Tom

 

[Fordoldfart]

My brother-in-law has an 1100 that did this fluid looked like a milk shake.it was so bad the the hydraulic filter froze and return pressure blew the filter gasket out causing a leak. We drained the tank and removed the filter. I had a slightly used engine filter that had the right threads screwed it on and put 3 gals of diesel in the tank and ran it. Like that for about ten minutes work all the hydraulics steering and bed. Then drained that and put on a new filter and filled it with AW32 hydraulic fluid from local farm store. Will do this again this coming spring. Now how does this happen the tank is sealed is covered by the solid plastic seat yes it does set outside but it is a full cab machine and with only the dump bed and power steering.

 

[whitetiger]

My brother-in-law has an 1100 that did this fluid looked like a milk shake.it was so bad the the hydraulic filter froze and return pressure blew the filter gasket out causing a leak. We drained the tank and removed the filter. I had a slightly used engine filter that had the right threads screwed it on and put 3 gals of diesel in the tank and ran it. Like that for about ten minutes work all the hydraulics steering and bed. Then drained that and put on a new filter and filled it with AW32 hydraulic fluid from local farm store. Will do this again this coming spring. Now how does this happen the tank is sealed is covered by the solid plastic seat yes it does set outside but it is a full cab machine and with only the dump bed and power steering.

It gets the water in the oil from condensation. That is why it is important to change the oil regularly.

 

[Tx Jim]

Check to be sure hyd tank breather isn't clogged. Clogged breather prohibits warmed moisture from escaping hyd system when oil reaches operating temp..

 

[Ikc1990]

Done this to several water loged equipment. Run for 15 min get warm mabey longer depending upon temp. Drain, change filter, then put in several gallons of cheap hydrolic fluid then add a few gallons of kerosene. You want about a 50 50 mix. Run for 20 to 30 min get fluid sloshing around. Drain change filter fill with good fluid run for 20 hrs check if still milky again repeat. The kerosene will lube, prevent rust and capture any moisture. If chanve. Aaggsin you can add seafoam for hydraulic systems this will help too.

 

[Shadow_storm56]

I had a tractor that did that, water in fluid so bad that the main transmission hydraulic pump would not allow it to go in gear, could sense the fluid was bad. It ended up being a manufacturing defeat tiny crack in the transmission casing. It was a deere but still, likely not that severe in your cause but look for places that water, ice and snow sit. If there's a bad seal on somthing or a crack or any way for water to get in then it'll find a way. You probably don't have too bad of wear because hydraulic fluid is designed to deal with some amount of water, but that fluid does not look good.