Hey everyone, new guy here. I have a friend with a 2003 model bx2230 and the oil drain plug is screwed. My question is can the oil pan be removed without pulling the engine? Thanks for any help. Chris
Oil Pan
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85Hokie
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When you say "screwed" - you mean cross threaded and will not stop leaking or will not tighten?
My 1st thought is a heli-coil
Second thought would be based on if any threads are left - reworking the crush washer.
Explain what is wrong with the current bolt/hole
If the problem is just threads on the drain hole you should be able to get a tap of the proper size and pitch to clean up the threads.
It was stripped by someone who changed the oil. He jad it retapped with a course thread bolt. He called me because after someone changed the oil for him it was leaking. I drained the oil and put a new washer on it bit the bolt will not tighten. Got the drip stopped. He got a hold of me this morning and said he ordered a new pan and gasket. He wants me to change it.
85Hokie
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I imaging that pan was not so cheap! What $120 for the pan?
To answer your question - I am not sure the pan can come out without lifting the engine - all the driveline for 4wd should be close in the way.
Someone has done it - so hopefully they will chime in here soon.
To answer your question - I am not sure the pan can come out without lifting the engine - all the driveline for 4wd should be close in the way.
Someone has done it - so hopefully they will chime in here soon.
I've had good luck with an expansion plug on my Jeep CJ. However I see that's not really your question. The guy bought the pan and wants YOU to install it.
Hey what about having a flange machined with proper ID & thread then silver solder it on Also risk of explosion is good when doing this fill the crank case with argon first choice or exhaust gas.
Not a tractor...(my Ram P/U)... I had an oil change done by WalMart and the idiots cross-threaded the drain plug and tried to hide it by using blue LockTite to seal it up... planning to only use an evacuator in the future.
(Of course an evacuator won’t work well on a 4WD Kubota because of the dual-drain-plugs of the double-cavity sump due to the 4WD drive-shaft tunnel.)
I made them pay for a new oil pan installation ($600) but it took me MONTHS to get them to pay me.
Anyway.... one solution you might try is to drill-out the drainplug “boss” and install a bushing, tapped for another drain plug. However, if he’s already bought a new oil pan/sump... You’ll have to drop the drive-shaft if it’s a DT and support the tractor with jackstands because that sump is part of the tensile-strength of the tractor. I’ve never done this to a Kubota... (done a few Fords tho’ and the tractor has to be split for the old ones).....just imagining what you’ll be up against.
(Of course an evacuator won’t work well on a 4WD Kubota because of the dual-drain-plugs of the double-cavity sump due to the 4WD drive-shaft tunnel.)
I made them pay for a new oil pan installation ($600) but it took me MONTHS to get them to pay me.
Anyway.... one solution you might try is to drill-out the drainplug “boss” and install a bushing, tapped for another drain plug. However, if he’s already bought a new oil pan/sump... You’ll have to drop the drive-shaft if it’s a DT and support the tractor with jackstands because that sump is part of the tensile-strength of the tractor. I’ve never done this to a Kubota... (done a few Fords tho’ and the tractor has to be split for the old ones).....just imagining what you’ll be up against.
North Idaho Wolfman
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I think it just require you to remove the front drive shaft to remove the pan, but I'm not 100% sure.
Go to kubotabooks.com and download the BX25 WSM (aka service manual) and that should help get you the answer.
whitetiger
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I have replaced a few oil pans on BX tractors, but I always just pull the engine out of the frame. I did not want to lay under the engine cleaning the RTV off of the block. Then comes trying to line the pan back up while coated with ThreeBond or Permatex, start the bolts and not mess up the sealer. If the pan will drop down, it will be all but rubbing the inside of the frame and tipped to clear the front axle.
Where it is a stand-alone engine, it takes less than 30 minutes to disconnect and lift off. You then have plenty of room to work.
Use two studs to help line up the pan. Of course this means buying studs or making from the appropriate bolt prior to the install.
That will reach you for using a Wally World flunky oil changer...
I never use an evacuator, no way can you suck the oil from the BOTTOM of a pan.
whitetiger
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Actually, Flip... this WallyWorld experience taught me I was wrong about that asSUMPtion... the drain-plug actually leaves MORE old oil in the pan than an evacuator. (at least on the Ram 4.7L oil pan it does). About a cup-and-a-half of oil is left in there even if the truck is up on ramps. The evacuator gets all but a tablespoon or so.
I discovered this when the shop handed me the old oil pan they had to remove to cure the WM mistake.. That drain plug is not the lowest point in the pan, but the evacuator-tube goes all the way to the bottom when it’s inserted... I can feel when the tube stops as it touches the bottom.
Unfortunately, I still have to lay down under the damn thing to change the oil filter.... Ram engineers made certain to put lots of equipment in the way so the filter is still inconvenient.... and although they designed a “drain-trough” for the filter, all that does is collect the filter’s spilt oil so that it spreads the mess out and requires a wad of paper-towels to clean up the trough. (Can’t even use the old zip-lok-bag trick without making a mess.)
Sounds like my wife's Suburban. GM uses a die cast aluminum sump pan on the 5.3 V8 and the oil filter is recessed into the sump casting so one, it requires a slip on filter wrench and 2, it's a messy change. Just changed it yesterday, first time. Least the sump holds 6 quarts, not like the Ford's that hold 5. The Ford's drain plugs are on the backside of the sump pan at the bottom so when the cars are on the ramps, the lowest point of the sump is the drain plug. It all comes out. Never had a FCA product. Not fond of them having dealt with FCA in my pre retirement job and knowing what I know about them which I won't get into here.
I will say that in GM's favor versus Fords, GM's are much more 'user friendly' under the hood than Fords are, IOW, less cluttered. Things like dipsticks are easily accessible. Have a friend with a F150 (new one) in 4wd (aren't they all 4wd today?)... he has to climb up on the bumper to get the dipstick out and the trans has no dipstick at all. Has a level plug underneath. Great design..... not. GM did that a while back with their small cars, didn't turn out so well.
BIL is a design engineer at Fords. I asked him one time where they came up with some of the hair brained crap they do, he just shrugged his shoulders......
I will say that in GM's favor versus Fords, GM's are much more 'user friendly' under the hood than Fords are, IOW, less cluttered. Things like dipsticks are easily accessible. Have a friend with a F150 (new one) in 4wd (aren't they all 4wd today?)... he has to climb up on the bumper to get the dipstick out and the trans has no dipstick at all. Has a level plug underneath. Great design..... not. GM did that a while back with their small cars, didn't turn out so well.
BIL is a design engineer at Fords. I asked him one time where they came up with some of the hair brained crap they do, he just shrugged his shoulders......
Most auto-trans these days dispensed with dipsticks because they are so much improved over old designs and use synthetic fluids...they don’t leak, don’t consume, and don’t need fluid.
Guess what else..? They also rarely have drain-plugs...you have to remove the entire tranny-PAN to change the fluid.
The GM engines are NOT any easier than Fords or FCA’s IMO.... my wife’s Buick has a simple spin-on filter....BUT... if you use ANY kind of filter wrench on it...you’d better be careful!!!! Because it’s immediately NEXT TO the starter-terminal and it’s only a matter of time you WILL have sparks flying if you don’t blow the fusible-link! Grrrr..... AND..the oil drains DIRECTLY onto the starter and main wiring harness. REally makes a damn mess!
Makes my RAM/DODGE appear pretty good, actually.
Guess what else..? They also rarely have drain-plugs...you have to remove the entire tranny-PAN to change the fluid.
The GM engines are NOT any easier than Fords or FCA’s IMO.... my wife’s Buick has a simple spin-on filter....BUT... if you use ANY kind of filter wrench on it...you’d better be careful!!!! Because it’s immediately NEXT TO the starter-terminal and it’s only a matter of time you WILL have sparks flying if you don’t blow the fusible-link! Grrrr..... AND..the oil drains DIRECTLY onto the starter and main wiring harness. REally makes a damn mess!
Makes my RAM/DODGE appear pretty good, actually.
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My wife's new Burb has one (dipstick) TH 400 btw. No drain pan plug and takes good old Dexron-Mercon IV too.
Her Transit also has a dipstick and no pan plug either but I'm used to pulling the pans anyway. Only way you can see if the box is committing suicide.
As a matter of fact, I'm about to drop the pan on her transit, change the filter, clean the pan, drop the converter fluid and refill with synthetic which is what it requires.
My Ford Diesel has a drain plug and I still drop the pan and change the filter. Only thing the drain plug dies is reduce the mess.
Sealed slush boxes are false economy. They may go 100-150 thou but the heat-cool-heat cycles eat the additive package up (just like your engine) and at some point the slush box commits suicide and so does your wallet.
Slush box is like a hydrostatic trans in a Kubota but instead of an external multi ratio gearbox (like a Kubby hydro has), all the 'gears are inside the case along with the clutch packs and bands, all making heat along with the TC.
You change the oil in a Kubby I think?
Her Transit also has a dipstick and no pan plug either but I'm used to pulling the pans anyway. Only way you can see if the box is committing suicide.
As a matter of fact, I'm about to drop the pan on her transit, change the filter, clean the pan, drop the converter fluid and refill with synthetic which is what it requires.
My Ford Diesel has a drain plug and I still drop the pan and change the filter. Only thing the drain plug dies is reduce the mess.
Sealed slush boxes are false economy. They may go 100-150 thou but the heat-cool-heat cycles eat the additive package up (just like your engine) and at some point the slush box commits suicide and so does your wallet.
Slush box is like a hydrostatic trans in a Kubota but instead of an external multi ratio gearbox (like a Kubby hydro has), all the 'gears are inside the case along with the clutch packs and bands, all making heat along with the TC.
You change the oil in a Kubby I think?
You're confusing me. It's my understanding they are two completely different operating theories?