Not sure if this is the correct spot to post this, but I am seeking info from anyone who might have experience with orange line trailers. Getting a package deal soon from a local dealer which includes the TH70 trailer. The trailers aren’t expected in for a month so I was using this time to get ready to haul it home when the day comes. I was looking into brake controllers and called the dealer to see if they offered any. They said that as long as I had a 7 pin connector on my hitch (I do), that an on board brake controller was not needed. I took that at face value for a day but it kept bugging me because I had never heard of such a thing. I called back, spoke with an actual salesman (first conversation was with a parts guy) and he said the same thing. The brakes were self adjusting and didn’t require an on board controller to work as long as you had a 7 pin instead of a 4 pin. Anyone have personal experience with these trailers and able to confirm? Thanks for any help.
Orange line trailers
- Thread starter Zachm24
- Start date
BigG
Well-known member
Equipment
l2501, FEL, BB, Rotary cutter, rake,spreader, roller, etc. New Holland TL80 A
Some trailers come with surge brakes. They activate when you brake the truck. The trailer pushing on the ball hitch will cause the brakes to work.
What kind of truck do you have? Year, make and model? Some trucks now come with the brake controller built into the truck but not all trucks. The 7 pin plug does not mean the trailer brakes will work. You need to look up the options that are on your truck, if you are still unsure call the dealer and speak to the service manager.
What kind of truck do you have? Year, make and model? Some trucks now come with the brake controller built into the truck but not all trucks. The 7 pin plug does not mean the trailer brakes will work. You need to look up the options that are on your truck, if you are still unsure call the dealer and speak to the service manager.
Thanks for the reply. I have a 2014 tundra. From what I’ve read I’m 2 or 3 years short on having an integrated controller built into the truck.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
I was curious, as I design/build 'brake controllers' .That trailer has 4 ' Nev-R-Adjust Electric Brakes ' so you WILL need a 'brake controller'. I looked up those brakes and they appear to have the regular 'coil' to engage the brakes, so about 4 amps per tire. Whether your truck has one built in, you'll have to ,sigh, read the manual. I know my '97 F150 didn't, though it was prewired with the 4 pin connector for the 'controller'.
Whatever trailer you get, be sure to get/add BACKUP lights as well as 'work lights'.
Whatever trailer you get, be sure to get/add BACKUP lights as well as 'work lights'.
Thanks for the info. I know my truck doesn’t have an integrated controller. Looks like I’ll have to get one. But that’s why I asked here. Glad folks know more than me about it. I just assumed the people that sell the stuff might know what they’re talking about. Maybe that isn’t the case here.
I tow my B2650 with extras on my 20’ PJ equipment trailer with my 2018 Tundra. I do have the factory brake controller, and it is a step down from the Tekonsha P-3 that I was used to. I’d recommend that controller and the factory fit pigtail so you can simply plug it in.
My load is about 7,500# and the truck goes it wonderfully. I do drop the transmission down into 5th gear so it doesn’t “hunt” in and out of 6th on every little bump.
Yes you need to add a brake controller the Tundra has a plug in for it under the dash so it’s an easy install
Thank you for the reply. Seems common consensus is I will still need a brake controller on the truck. So I suppose I will get one and have it ready for when the package is all ready to pick up. Thanks everyone.
torch
Well-known member
Equipment
B7100HSD, B2789, B2550, B4672, 48" cultivator, homemade FEL and Cab
Be aware that there are brake controllers and then there are brake controllers.
Cheaper "time delay" controllers simply send slowly increasing power to the trailer brakes each time the pedal is pushed. Yes, you can adjust the timing and max power, but you will never get good brake feel, and when adjusted for normal driving, you don't get brakes soon enough in a panic stop situation. Conversely, when braking gently in slippery conditions, the trailer will brake harder and harder until the wheels lock up.
I discovered this while towing an empty trailer in the snow around a moderate right-hand curve approaching a stop when I noticed the trailer attempting to pass my truck in the on-coming lane.
"Proportional" controllers use sensors that detect how fast the truck is decelerating and ramps up the trailer brake power accordingly. Older designs used a pendulum, which had to be adjusted and limited the mounting angle. Newer designs use electronic inertia sensors and can be mounted at any angle. They cost more (+/- 30%) than "time delay" models.
Other things to look for:
Brakes connected indicator -- confirms electrical connectivity
Quick load adjustment -- a loaded trailer needs more power than an empty one.
Power or Gain indicator -- useful when adjusting for load.
Manual "spike" -- useful for testing, adjusting and the occasional time when you want trailer brakes only.
Vehicle-specific wiring adapter -- if your truck has a towing package with a 7-pin plug, then there will probably be a connector waiting under the dash. But Chevy connectors are different than Ford connectors, etc. An adapter will be an extra-cost option, but makes life easier when installing the controller and doesn't void any warranties.
The gold standard is probably the Tekonsha 'P3' . I have a Hopkins 'Agility'. There are dozens of other makes out there.
Cheaper "time delay" controllers simply send slowly increasing power to the trailer brakes each time the pedal is pushed. Yes, you can adjust the timing and max power, but you will never get good brake feel, and when adjusted for normal driving, you don't get brakes soon enough in a panic stop situation. Conversely, when braking gently in slippery conditions, the trailer will brake harder and harder until the wheels lock up.
I discovered this while towing an empty trailer in the snow around a moderate right-hand curve approaching a stop when I noticed the trailer attempting to pass my truck in the on-coming lane.
"Proportional" controllers use sensors that detect how fast the truck is decelerating and ramps up the trailer brake power accordingly. Older designs used a pendulum, which had to be adjusted and limited the mounting angle. Newer designs use electronic inertia sensors and can be mounted at any angle. They cost more (+/- 30%) than "time delay" models.
Other things to look for:
Brakes connected indicator -- confirms electrical connectivity
Quick load adjustment -- a loaded trailer needs more power than an empty one.
Power or Gain indicator -- useful when adjusting for load.
Manual "spike" -- useful for testing, adjusting and the occasional time when you want trailer brakes only.
Vehicle-specific wiring adapter -- if your truck has a towing package with a 7-pin plug, then there will probably be a connector waiting under the dash. But Chevy connectors are different than Ford connectors, etc. An adapter will be an extra-cost option, but makes life easier when installing the controller and doesn't void any warranties.
The gold standard is probably the Tekonsha 'P3' . I have a Hopkins 'Agility'. There are dozens of other makes out there.
Really informative there as I have 0 trailer brake experience. Thank you for that. I emailed the manufacturer in hopes they can give me the exact specs to know what I’ll be dealing with and what to prepare for. Thanks again.
BAP
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
2012 Kubota 2920, 60MMM, FEL, BH65 48" Bush Hog, 60"Backblade, B2782B Snowblower
I would not buy a trailer from a dealer that has no idea how trailer brakes work and what your vehicle needs to operate them. Most of these packages that some dealers put together with trailers, implements and tractors end up being lesser quality because the trailers and implements are the lowest quality that manufacturers make in order to make you think that you are getting a great deal.
pokey1416
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Grand L4060HSTC, BH92 Backhoe, HLA Snow Pusher, Dirt Dog Tiller, EA DiscHarrow
I have a Tacoma here’s link to my brake controller install. I think Tundra uses same or similar harness.
[URL="https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/brake-control-install-write-up.428999/page-3#post-20184252"]Brake control install write up.[/URL]
[URL="https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/brake-control-install-write-up.428999/page-3#post-20184252"]Brake control install write up.[/URL]
The nice part about the Tekonsha P3 is it is very easy to set up. The instructions are good, and it is bullet proof after setup.
Read the directions and follow them. You won’t be disappointed! Since it uses a decelerometer to determine how fast you’re trying to stop, you don’t get the stupid brake slam that is common with more basic controllers, or one that is improperly adjusted...
I have the Reese Compact IQ brake controller on my 2016 Silverado. I wanted a controller that could be mounted in the dash where the factory one goes instead of a box mounted under the dash. There’s a three function dial (power, boost, manual override) and an LED that indicates trailer brake wiring attached (green) and brakes active (red). It is a proportional unit that’s easy to adjust on-the-fly with a simple twist of the dials. It works great with my 7k lb car trailer.
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torch
Well-known member
Equipment
B7100HSD, B2789, B2550, B4672, 48" cultivator, homemade FEL and Cab
BAP is right on. Obviously, your dealer / salesman is either woefully ignorant about trailers and pulling them or just want to make a sale. Remember, when you leave their lot on go down the road, it's 100% on you, not them.... and how about the securement of the tractor to the trailer. Is the dealer supplying straps or chains and binders or is that on you as well? Better learn the correct securement procedure and how many securements are required and where they go on your tractor. Remember again, when you leave the dealer and go down the road, that responsibility is 100% on you. Anything falls off the trailer and causes damage to another vehicle, property or a person, it's 100% on you plus you might wind up in court with a criminal charge.
I didn't even know Kubota sold trailers, my dealer don't (far as I know of), but then my tractors are a mite large for conventional trailering anyway. When mine get hauled, it's usually on a roll back or my tri axle gooseneck.
Now I'm curious. I'd like to know who is making the trailers. That in itself would give some good insight into the build quality. Lots of trailer manufacturers out there. Some are good, most aren't and some are downright horrible.
As a rule, I always have my dealer provide transportation to and from. Sure, I pay for it but any liability is on them, 100%, not me.
Was interested in who made them for Kubota. ORANGE LINE TRAILERS trademark by Contract Manufacturer, L.L.C. in Madill, OK, 73446. Also shows as CM Trailers http://www.cmtrailers.com
Thanks for the advice. They factored in tie downs into the whole deal according to the quote. Looking back on some pictures on their dealer FB page, it looks like they use heavy duty nylon (presumably) ratchet straps. I was planning to try to get them to swap those out for chains and binders instead. They sell the binders for $40/each. Didn’t see what they sell the chains for. But I figure if I make a big deal of it they won’t lose a sale over 4 or 5 sets. I assume a minimum of 2 for the tractor and then one each for every implement I’m getting that can’t all be secured to the tractor itself at one time.