I have taken the loader on and off without issue several times on my one year old L4060. I had taken it off two days ago, and in trying to put it back on two of the four hydraulic quick connects will not go back on. They are the bucket curl and dump fittings. All of the valves are free on the tractor side but not on the loader side. I need to hook them all up in order to get the loader reattached. Loader is sitting on flat pavement. Thoughts?
Hydraulic fittings on loader won’t go back on
- Thread starter troverman
- Start date
Both my loaders will act the same way at times... Easy (but messy) fix. Take the loader connector in your hand and take a small round, flat faced punch and a hammer and whack the rod / punch against the internal poppet in the coupler. That will relieve the pressure and allow you to couple them. Be apprised, the fluid will squirt out and it goes everywhere, including on you.
I have my wife hold the coupler while I whack the poppet with a rod and hammer so I get oiled and she don't.
I do that quite often.
Has to so with temperature changes causing the fluid to expand.
I have my wife hold the coupler while I whack the poppet with a rod and hammer so I get oiled and she don't.
I do that quite often.
Has to so with temperature changes causing the fluid to expand.
BigG
Well-known member
Equipment
l2501, FEL, BB, Rotary cutter, rake,spreader, roller, etc. New Holland TL80 A
Best is the easiest and least cost. Punch, hammer and a willing partner of course. Far as being environmentally correct, a quick squirt on your dirty shirt is all well and good and hydraulic fluid, unlike motor oil, washes out.
BAP
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
2012 Kubota 2920, 60MMM, FEL, BH65 48" Bush Hog, 60"Backblade, B2782B Snowblower
Try this morning while it is cold. You may find that the fluid has contracted some in the cold and they go right on. I find that if I take my loader off and it sits in the sun, the fluid expands and I can’t get some of the couplers to connect.
I prefer to use a plastic screwdriver handle rather than metal to metal contact.
May make no practical difference, but some of my connectors have a ball inside that looks like it can rotate, so I do not want to scratch it.
May make no practical difference, but some of my connectors have a ball inside that looks like it can rotate, so I do not want to scratch it.
Use a piece of hardwood or plastic. I did damage with a piece of allthread. I modified a small cheap grooved pliers and cut pieces of hardwood from an old axe handle. I'll snap a pic next time I'm in the shed.
Edited to add pics. When in actual use, I wrap a rag around the end because it'll squirt pretty good.
Edited to add pics. When in actual use, I wrap a rag around the end because it'll squirt pretty good.
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Pioneer 'disconnect under pressure' (breakaway) males will have a semi pointed check valve in the end. Pioneer round ball are non breakaway. Kubota uses all Pioneer style disconnects It does make a difference (ball or tapered flat point as to how the internal pressure is relieved but the escaping fluid is very minimal.
BAP seems to be correct. Today is a cooler, cloudy day and the fittings went right on. I did come prepared with a flat bolt to fit the conical pioneer valve to tap on, but no need. Now just fighting to get the loader pins aligned. Thanks for the help.
nbryan
Well-known member
Equipment
B2650 BH77 LA534 54" ssqa Forks B2782B BB1560 Woods M5-4 MaxxHaul 50039
This drove me nuts too trying to connect the loader in the friggin freezing cold sometimes, and releasing pressure on the loader lines by forcefully compressing the ball valve-end is the only way. Putting a rag over the end first helps keep the mess down.
I bet higher-hour units don't lock up as much, can seep enough.
I bet higher-hour units don't lock up as much, can seep enough.