Can't get BX1500 to start.

[O'boy]

Here is what happens. I turn the key and everything is normal up through glow plug heat. Then nothing. No clicking - nothing. This time it will not start at all and this is day 2. I have checked the safety switches under the seat, in front of seat, the PTO clutch Lever, the PTO select lever, and the range gear shift lever. Are there any others? I have checked the ignition switch. I have checked the battery and fuses. I changed the fuel solenoid and key switch timer a few months ago and they are working fine. What else do I need to check? The starter? If so how would I go about that. Thanks!

 

[Roadworthy]

What is the battery voltage just sitting and what is the voltage when you try to crank? Disconnect the battery. Clean the terminals. Clean cable ends. Have battery load tested. Reconnect cables. Follow ground wire to frame. Clean and tighten. This may not solve your problem but it will give a decent starting point for further troubleshooting.

 

[O'boy]

Thanks. 12.65v and when I try to crank 12.06v. Ground is clean and tight. I checked the power going to the starter solenoid and it was only 0.28. What could cause that?

What is the battery voltage just sitting and what is the voltage when you try to crank? Disconnect the battery. Clean the terminals. Clean cable ends. Have battery load tested. Reconnect cables. Follow ground wire to frame. Clean and tighten. This may not solve your problem but it will give a decent starting point for further troubleshooting.

 

[O'boy]

EDIT - Not a bad wire. Bad safety switch that I mistakenly thought only controled the fuel solenoid and was doing that. It also controls the starter solenoid and that side was faulty. Now I am trying to figure out how to replace it.
I figured out what could cause it. Bad wire. I unhooked the wiring harness that hooks to the ignition switch and there was no continuity between the harness and the blade connector at the solenoid. I made a bypass wire and it started right up.

Thanks. 12.65v and when I try to crank 12.06v. Ground is clean and tight. I checked the power going to the starter solenoid and it was only 0.28. What could cause that?

 

[old and tired]

I see you figured it out... {deleted my reply}

 

[O'boy]

Didn't get a chance to see it but I thank you for your reply!

I see you figured it out... {deleted my reply}

 

[Henro]

I figured out what could cause it. Bad wire. I unhooked the wiring harness that hooks to the ignition switch and there was no continuity between the harness and the blade connector at the solenoid. I made a bypass wire and it started right up.

Sounds like you bypassed (eliminated) the safety circuit with your bypass wire. Am I reading this right?

 

[old and tired]

Didn't get a chance to see it but I thank you for your reply!

Re-posting what I deleted, in case someone else might be helped from it...

...I have checked the safety switches ...

How did you check them? Did you check them for alignment?

My tractor is different but if I get a No Crank; this is what I do to find out if one of the safety switches is out of alignment: I keep holding the key in the start / crank position, wiggle my butt in the seat. If you can Crank and reach down to the the seat's safety switch, I would jiggle that by hand, hold down the operator present lever.

If nothing, I would move to the HST pedal (assuming you have one) continue to hold in crank position and slowly move the hst petal back and forth (see if there is a spot where the starter kicks in).

Normally it's one of those two... you can play with the PTO safety switch the same way... Good luck, hope it's something easy.

 

[O'boy]

100% accurate! After I did the temp bypass I started to follow the wire and the black/white wire from the solenoid goes down under the tractor and that black/white wire that comes from the ignition switch goes a different way. I assume that this makes a loop through a switch somewhere. I just now downloaded the service manual so I can see where the wires go.

Sounds like you bypassed (eliminated) the safety circuit with your bypass wire. Am I reading this right?

 

[O'boy]

OK - my error was thinking the switches only controlled the fuel solenoid! The PTO clutch lever and range gear shift lever switches turn off the fuel and starter solenoid! I jacked it up removed the wheels and tested both sides of the switches. It is the starter solenoid side of the Safety Switch for PTO Clutch Lever. Now the BIG question. HOW DO YOU GET THAT THING OFF! It says that Part 1 is the Safety Switch Stay but the bolts also hold everything inside the yellow on. But the two little nuts appear to just be on a bolt that can only be accessed by taking off that plate. Do I have to take off the PTO select lever and then remove bolts A? Because you can't get the top left A bolt off with the PTO select lever there. They sure designed this well /s. Lets put the part that fails the most in the worst possible place and hook it on in the worst possible way!