BX Clicking Noise Sounds Sluggish

[bluedunn]

Hi-

while using my BX today I noticed that the clicking noise that I hear with the key in On position has started to sound sluggish. I believe this is either an electric fuel pump or solenoid...apologies not sure what this called. I’m used to hearing this and it usually sounds “lively”, but sound less so today...not sure how to best describe this other than “sluggish”. Is this possibly up for replacement? It’s a 2012 BX1860 with 275 hours.

Thanks for any help with this!

 

[Dave_eng]

On many tractors the fuel pump, (aka lift pump) is not needed all the time as gravity often can deliver fuel when the tank is full and the tractor is on level ground.

When the fuel level is low and you are driving up a hill now gravity cannot deliver fuel and the lift pump is needed.

See if you can correlate the change you notice in fuel pump sounds to other factors such as fuel level in the tank.

Dave

 

[Henro]

First I congratulate you for still having great hearing.

That clicking sound is likely the fuel pump. Either you perceive a change that is not there, or it is there.

I would just run the tractor as is unti it became a problem. IF I really could not live without the tractor for a couple days, I would order a new fuel pump and fuel filters to have on hand when necessary.

 

[skeets]

OK first off,, slugish,, FUEL ,,, have you replaced the fuel filters? yes both of them, have you treated your fuel with anything? Are you sure there wasnt GASOLINE dumped in by mistake,, yes it do happen. The clicking, does it happen when you tram or just sitting with it at idle? Just some food for thought

 

[bluedunn]

OK first off,, slugish,, FUEL ,,, have you replaced the fuel filters? yes both of them, have you treated your fuel with anything? Are you sure there wasnt GASOLINE dumped in by mistake,, yes it do happen. The clicking, does it happen when you tram or just sitting with it at idle? Just some food for thought

Just replaced both fuel filters a month ago. Fuel is fresh, is not gas, and is treated. The clicking I'm referring to is the clicking one hears when the BX key is turned to the on position, but the engine has not yet fired. I believe this to be the fuel pump, which is located not he underside of the tractor. As I mentioned, it just didn't sound as 'lively' as I have come to expect.

 

[skeets]

OK I misunderstood. The machine runs OK doesnt it? Do all the lights work, I mean as bright as before, there might be a bit of crud on the ground not letting it get full voltage. Just tossing things out here

 

[bluedunn]

OK I misunderstood. The machine runs OK doesnt it? Do all the lights work, I mean as bright as before, there might be a bit of crud on the ground not letting it get full voltage. Just tossing things out here

Oh yea, the tractor itself is running like a top. It's just this part of the ignition cycle that I was wondering about. Lights all seems strong. I installed a voltmeter earlier this year and it reads that the electrical system, or at least the batter, is operating just fine.

I'll check it again after work tonight - may just be me being paranoid about my baby.

 

[skeets]

Well then ya got me,,lol,, this is kinda like if it aint broke dont fix it

 

[bluedunn]

Well then ya got me,,lol,, this is kinda like if it aint broke dont fix it

I think I’m just being paranoid.

 

[Mark_BX25D]

Nah, not paranoid. Sounds like your fuel pump is on the way out, OR there is a problem with the wiring. Some corrosion along the way will reduce the voltage available to the fuel pump, so it will run more slowly.

If'n it were me, I'd check the voltage at the pump while the pump is engaged. Might need some test probes and a partner to do that.

If it's low, I'd look for a bad connection somewhere. If it's fine, I'd order a new fuel pump.

 

[bluedunn]

Nah, not paranoid. Sounds like your fuel pump is on the way out, OR there is a problem with the wiring. Some corrosion along the way will reduce the voltage available to the fuel pump, so it will run more slowly.

If'n it were me, I'd check the voltage at the pump while the pump is engaged. Might need some test probes and a partner to do that.

If it's low, I'd look for a bad connection somewhere. If it's fine, I'd order a new fuel pump.

That I can do - I have a multimeter, which I don't use all that often, but purchased just in case. So should be 12v at the pump correct? If I do find the voltage is low, should I then trace back using the multimeter until I find the drop?

Thanks!

 

[William1]

A few tests.
Without doing anything, first check the battery voltage BEFORE you turn the key. It should be at 12.8 volts. Key on, clicking (the fuel pump running) voltage should drop a little, perhaps to 12.6. Start tractor. At idle, voltage will be over 14 and at 2,000 rpm, it will be at 14.3
If before you do anything, the at rest voltage at the battery is low, consider it is possible the battery is getting past its' prime.
If all the tests more or less match the numbers, then test at the pump, key on and the pump wires unplugged, you should get the same as battery voltage. Then key on, pump connected (and clicking) you should be getting the same voltaqge as you do at the battery. If there is a difference in the voltage, you have a poor connection and excessive resistance exists due to a bad relay, loose connection, corrosion or other malady.

 

[bluedunn]

A few tests.
Without doing anything, first check the battery voltage BEFORE you turn the key. It should be at 12.8 volts. Key on, clicking (the fuel pump running) voltage should drop a little, perhaps to 12.6. Start tractor. At idle, voltage will be over 14 and at 2,000 rpm, it will be at 14.3
If before you do anything, the at rest voltage at the battery is low, consider it is possible the battery is getting past its' prime.
If all the tests more or less match the numbers, then test at the pump, key on and the pump wires unplugged, you should get the same as battery voltage. Then key on, pump connected (and clicking) you should be getting the same voltaqge as you do at the battery. If there is a difference in the voltage, you have a poor connection and excessive resistance exists due to a bad relay, loose connection, corrosion or other malady.

Ok, checked these items, as you suggested, and battery is good. I didn’t think this was the problem as I put in a new battery last fall, but never hurts to check. Also the voltage is almost identical at the pump, so I think I’m ruling out the electrical. I think I’ll order up a new pump to have on hand as it seems like this one is on its way out.

Thanks for the help (all) in this!

 

[William1]

Ok, checked these items, as you suggested, and battery is good. I didn’t think this was the problem as I put in a new battery last fall, but never hurts to check. Also the voltage is almost identical at the pump, so I think I’m ruling out the electrical. I think I’ll order up a new pump to have on hand as it seems like this one is on its way out.

Thanks for the help (all) in this!

While a defective pump is possible, and if you think it is a pump, the next confirmaton check would be to disconnect the fuel line after the pump, stick a length of line on it, loop it up and then down into a fuel can, see if the behavior persists. If the pump just runs, slowly pinch the line extension off (clamp, pliers, vise grips) and see if the clicking changes. As I understand the pump design, it is a bypass pump and is low pressure, so restriction should not change things unless (the kicker) the bypass valve is stuck closed. That would cause pressure to slow down the ability to pump, and the clicking would be labored, slower, possible louder and also the current draw would jump and voltage to drop. There is no way to service the bypass valve and a new pump is required.
If the bypass is stuck, the pump will be over loaded and will stop pumping prematurely, probably. If you know the pump is truly bad, replace it before it stops working, which is always the square of the time to distance from tools and in direct proportion to rain and mud.
I recently had a fuel filter clog episode and I was very careful while using the tractor waiting for new filters to arrive to be in a position to be able to tow or park it in a good spot and not go out in to the woods and end up being in a bad place.