10w-30 or 15w-40 rotella class ex EGR

[Stumpuller]

I'm at 50 hour mark on my L5240. My choice for the first crankcase change is to go with Rotella T. The manual indicates for the l5240 with external EGR to use oil class CF or CI4. Researching the rotells web site http://www-static.shell.com/static/...ricants/rotella/rotella_triple_protection.pdf
The 10w-30 meets this class for L5240 with external EGR. How can i assure my L5240 has the extenal EGR?

 

[eserv]

I'm at 50 hour mark on my L5240. My choice for the first crankcase change is to go with Rotella T. The manual indicates for the l5240 with external EGR to use oil class CF or CI4. Researching the rotells web site http://www-static.shell.com/static/...ricants/rotella/rotella_triple_protection.pdf
The 10w-30 meets this class for L5240 with external EGR. How can i assure my L5240 has the extenal EGR?

Your L5240 does have an external liquid cooled EGR. Incidentally, the
cf or CI4 oil would be suitable even if you didn't have EGR.
ED












c

 

[Stumpuller]

Thanks for the reply. Do you opt to do a seasonal change in viscosity? Or is it best to stick with same viscosity year round.

 

[ETRon]

Thanks for the reply. Do you opt to do a seasonal change in viscosity? Or is it best to stick with same viscosity year round.

I'm just a little further down the "hours" road than you are and I've used 10/30 year round with no problems. The Rotella 10/30 seems to be a little harder to find 'round here, IIRC I found it at Tractor Supply.

 

[Stumpuller]

Thanks for the reply. I went with the 10W-30 Rotella. I felt more comfortable with the way the API was expressed on the label than the 10W-40. Just did the change with filter and at 9.5 qts a show a overfill on the dip stick. I drained to no drip. Manual says 9.9. Any luck on taking some out?

I ran the the engine a couple of minutes after pressure light went out.

 

[Bulldog]

If it's not but a little over you'll probably be okay. You could alway crack open the drain plug and just let a small amount out then lock it back down. If you wanted to spend the money Northern Tool sells a vaccum can that will pull oil out of the dip stick tube. I bought one for changing oil in gear boxes that don't have a drain. Work pretty good.

 

[Stumpy]

If you wanted to spend the money Northern Tool sells a vaccum can that will pull oil out of the dip stick tube. I bought one for changing oil in gear boxes that don't have a drain. Work pretty good.

That how we did it at the quick lube I used to work at. Hook a pvc hose up to our diaphragm trash pump, set it in the diff's fill port and let it run for about 5 minutes. You'd be surprised how many automotive rear diffs don't have a drain plug these days.

Anyway you can find a small vacuum pump at most autoparts stores that will do the same thing. It'll have a little 1/2 quart container and a pistol grip vacuum pump. Or you can just yank the drain plug. Do it with cold oil though, I had to do it hot for 2 years and still managed several burns through my thick pvc gloves.

 

[Stumpuller]

Thanks for the replys. I was successful backing out the drain plug. Got a pretty good surge at first but I noticed when I did the initial drain that it was slow unitl I took off the add oil stopper. Kept the stopper and got about a half quart out.