How far can I lift front tires to gain depth on rear auger / Auger extension build

[Timmer92]

Hi all,

I have a L3901. I am sinking fence posts 5 feet deep. My rear 3 pt auger only goes down 3 feet. After doing a few and then completing the last 2 feet by hand, I'm looking for a way to reduce my work. My thought is I could raise the front end of the tractor by driving up on blocks or something and gain depth in the back. Any thoughts on how high I might go with the front? 10"? More? Any stress on equipment or operational dangers?

PS. I have been searching for a compatible auger extension for weeks, so yes, I've thought of that.

 

[bird dogger]

I can't say if you'd gain a whole lot by lifting the front wheels to gain depth in the rear. wouldn't your auger head get in the way shortly?

Regarding extensions: they're pretty easy to make. Here's a link to a thread I posted in with pics of my extension I made for just the same reasons as you are looking for.

Post hole auger size

There is a post hole auger coming up in a local auction and if I can get it cheap enough and it will work for my purpose I might buy it. It comes with a 24" auger. I realize that a 24" auger would probably be too big for my little Kubota L2501, especially since I have alot of clay around my...

www.orangetractortalks.com

If you're close by in MN. you can even borrow my extension.

david

 

[Timmer92]

I can't say if you'd gain a whole lot by lifting the front wheels to gain depth in the rear. wouldn't your auger head get in the way shortly?

If you're close by in MN. you can even borrow my extension.

david

Well now I'm just embarrassed! I was trying to go all engineer and think about angles and didn't really think it through. You are correct, the auger head will still be an issue so I wouldn't gain much by lifting the front.

I have a County Line from Tractor Supply, that I learned is made by Speeco. The auger bit/blade has a 2" round drive receptacle, and 1/2" pin/bolt holes that are perpendicular at 1 1/8” and 3 1/8”. Maybe I could rent yours if you are close by? I live north of the metro.

 

[SidecarFlip]

I tool a length of schedule 80 black pipe and made an extension. Easy-peasy.

If that isn't quite enough, I 'loft' the front end with the bucket rolled down so the edge is on the ground and lift the front end as much as required.

 

[Henro]

I tool a length of schedule 80 black pipe and made an extension. Easy-peasy.

If that isn't quite enough, I 'loft' the front end with the bucket rolled down so the edge is on the ground and lift the front end as much as required.

how much space do you have under your auger tip when the 3PH is all the way up?

in my case not much, so if I were to use an extension, I would have to install it and remove it at every hole. Not something I would do, without extreme need.

Your situation may may be different...

Flip’s procedure would help. But in my case I bet a foot lift by the bucket would add only about 2 inches depth to the hole. Could be wrong on that...but probably not.

 

[bird dogger]

Well now I'm just embarrassed! I was trying to go all engineer and think about angles and didn't really think it through. You are correct, the auger head will still be an issue so I wouldn't gain much by lifting the front.

I have a County Line from Tractor Supply, that I learned is made by Speeco. The auger bit/blade has a 2" round drive receptacle, and 1/2" pin/bolt holes that are perpendicular at 1 1/8” and 3 1/8”. Maybe I could rent yours if you are close by? I live north of the metro.

LOL! No need to feel embarrassed! Welcome to the club! Shucks, we're at opposite sides of the borders, me being just outside of Grand Forks. Have relatives in White Bear Lake but don't get over there much in the summer time. You couldn't rent it.....but I'd sure let you use it as the dimensions seem identical. If you know anybody that could weld one up for you it's an easy project.

Like Henro mentioned, when using the extension I drill all the holes to the augers normal depth first and then add the extension. Depending on how you have the auger set up (there are some adjusting holes on my Speeco frame) and your three point hitch set up, you might get by without removing the auger to lift the extension up out of the hole. Otherwise, you drop the auger in the hole, attach it to the extension when centered over the hole and drill away. Still much quicker than the long handled jabbers!! And using some clevis pins with clips is much quicker than the bolts when doing it this way.

If you, or anyone you know, gets up this way I would sell you mine cheap and I could just build another.

david

 

[UpNorthMI]

I’ve run into the same problem but I own an extension. I fitted the extension at each hole, had pins with clips rather than bolts for use with extension, it was a lot faster and easier than trying to dig another 24”.

Flip suggestion of making extension from black pipe is a good one, it’s readily available and quick to do.

Good luck with your project.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Why in the BLEEP are you burying a fence post 5 feet in the ground?
Three feet is more than sufficient!

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Posts need to go below frost line, which varys where you live. Also the deeper you go, the longer the post will stay straight and be stronger. There's a formula the Hydro line guys have up here to bury their poles....

as for the extension... you dig ALL the holes 3' deep THEN add the extension to dig the final 2' in ALL the holes. then toss all the posts in.

 

[Tornado]

Down here in Florida you take any load bearing fence post pretty deep and then cement it or it wont last long Sand just doesn't hold a post too well. The good is that I dig all my holes by hand. You can dig a 5 foot hole with a post hole digger in just 1-2 minutes.

 

[Timmer92]

Posts need to go below frost line, which varys where you live. Also the deeper you go, the longer the post will stay straight and be stronger. There's a formula the Hydro line guys have up here to bury their poles....

Exactly. Not only do I want to go below the frost line, but I want to make sure my posts are solid. I'm using a simple rule - post height above ground needs to be equal or less than below ground. I'm sinking corner posts for a pasture, gate openings, etc. Opinions may vary I'm sure.

 

[Timmer92]

I tool a length of schedule 80 black pipe and made an extension. Easy-peasy.

I haven't purchased a whole lot of pipe, so i don't how many variations are available. I don't have a welder but I do have a drill press. Do you think I could find pieces with proper outside and inside diameters in order to connect and make it work without having to weld?

Think a welding shop would give me the time of day for something small like this?

 

[GreensvilleJay]

You might be surprised ! My local fabshop LIKES 'oddball' jobs...something different.. believe me it gets BORING whackin out 1000 pieces of this, punching 5,000 holes, etc....
Never hurts to ask .

 

[Timmer92]

I was looking at black pipe online from a manufacturer. I'm not sure of industry standards how readily available it is, but here are some pipe dimensions. I'm wondering if I could pull it all together just using these 2 pipes and bolting them together.

SCH 40 Pipe 1 1/2 in
Outside Diameter 1.9"
Inside Diameter 1.61"

SCH 40 Pipe 2 in
Outside Diameter 2.375"
Inside Diameter 2.067"

• The inside diameter of the 2" pipe would be .067" wider than my auger receptacle on my existing auger bit (part that attaches to auger head)
• Inserting the 1.5" pipe into the 2" pipe would have 0.167" clearance
• Inserting the 1.5" pipe into the auger bit would have .1" clearance

So in summary, with questions:

• My connection at the auger head would have just over 1/16" more space than what I have now. That doesn't seem like too much slop given the 2 bolts attaching it to the shaft.
• The connection from the pipe to the auger bit would have under 1/16" clearance. That seems tight but likely doable.
• Putting 1 pipe inside the other would have just under 3/16" clearance. Is that too much slop? I could bolt it in multiple places.

Further, depending on lengths of pipe, I could make it adjustable by how far one pipe goes into another.


UPDATE - The various big box hardware stores have these pipes with the exact specs in stock. I'm going to give it a try.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

odds are real good the MFR (Speeco ?) use 'off the shelf' tubing to make their stuff. 'pipe' spec is always +-xxx and will vary between batches ,but one dimension is supposed to be 'tighter spec'. That being said 1/16 to 1/8 'slop' should be ok. what counts is reasonably tight holes for the bolts/shear pins. Having the extrension adjustable sounds good but really maybe you'll never adjust it,so a waste of time ?
Heck, it's only couple lengths of pipe... try it ! Ask at local fab shop for some 'cutoffs',should be cheap or free !!

 

[ThomasH]

Posts need to go below frost line, which varys where you live. Also the deeper you go, the longer the post will stay straight and be stronger. There's a formula the Hydro line guys have up here to bury their poles....

as for the extension... you dig ALL the holes 3' deep THEN add the extension to dig the final 2' in ALL the holes. then toss all the posts in.

About 20 Years ago, I built a fence under contract with the Bureau of Land Management to fence in some land that had recently burnt, to keep cattle out. The BLM specs for the electric fence was posts 10' long, 6' in the ground. It was in sandy loam. Or more accuratly loamy sand, lol. Overkill? Absolutely. It was a pain in the ass, but that fence isn't going anywhere. I feel sorry for the poor soul that has to remove those posts some day.

 

[Timmer92]

The project is under way!

I picked up 2 pipes. I've got the hardest holes drilled. Those are the perpendicular holes for the connection to the shaft and the connection to the auger bit (2 on each end). Now I just have to drill some holes to connect the smaller pipe inside the larger pipe.

The pipes are only schedule 40, not schedule 80, but I'm hoping they hold up. I'm in sand, so it's not as rough as other environments. They seem pretty heavy duty. Using a hacksaw to shorten them was tough. In hindsight I should have wacked them down with a hand grinder and then used a bench grinder to finish it nicely. I actually forgot I inherited a bench grinder. It is tucked under my workbench. The only disappointment so far is that the outside diameter of the 1.5" pipe is not as wide as the posted specs. It's a bit sloppier than I would have hoped, but hopefully the bolts will hold it in place.

When complete I will post some pics.

 

[bird dogger]

The project is under way!

The only disappointment so far is that the outside diameter of the 1.5" pipe is not as wide as the posted specs. It's a bit sloppier than I would have hoped, but hopefully the bolts will hold it in place.

When complete I will post some pics.

You should be in good shape and drilling holes shortly. If the "fit" is a little too sloppy with that pipe and it flops around too much.....you can cut some thin metal flashing material and wrap it around the pipe at each end of the overlap. Hold it in place with some good tape. Use anything to just keep the pipe centered and a little more snug fitting when bolted in place. Better would be to sometime have someone run a weld bead around the ends of the overlap and grind them down for a snugger fit. It's doubtful you'll
need to go that far. Kudos for deciding to make one yourself!!
david

 

[Creature Meadow]

Pertaining to your post but not the auger.

Do you plan on treating the bottoms of your posts?

Recently pulled some up and although treated, from ground level down some were nearly have the diameter as the parts above ground. Just started rotting away over time.

Read on here about treating bottoms of posts with used motor oil to preserve them so that is what I've been doing. I brush on the oil to about a foot above where I intend to bury them allow to dry and bury them. We will see how they hold up.

 

[Timmer92]

Pertaining to your post but not the auger.

Do you plan on treating the bottoms of your posts?

That is certainly a consideration. I looked into it a bit, but I dismissed the idea for 2 reasons. First, we have so many projects going on I thought it was just too much additional work. Also, I was looking at buying a product to accomplish it and we would have needed a whole lot, as all of our posts are wood, not just the corners. I'm already way over budget and had to draw the line.

I'm hoping that because we live in sand it won't deteriorate as quickly. I might live to regret the decision, and most certainly will if I end up spending all of this money again in a few years!