Using the 3pt hitch on my BX1850 with a 2” receiver adapter to move my trailers around the property, and it will not stay in the up position. After I raise the trailer up I can visually see it going back down fairly quickly. This is my first compact tractor, so not sure where to start troubleshooting. I am assuming if I raise it, it should stay up correct? I haven’t used the 3pt hitch for anything until now, so I might not have noticed it raising / lowering the mower deck.
3 Point Hitch not staying up
- Thread starter MW3Designs
- Start date
You say falls quickly. How quickly is that? Inches in seconds or inches in minutes? There will be some creep since it is a quarter inching valve and not a regular three point setup like the bigger tractors have that keep it at a constant level. You might try closing the valve once you get your hitch to the level you want some that it holds in one position. I have to do that when I tow a trailer with my bx 2380, otherwise I am constantly raising it.
Chris
armylifer
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Equipment
BX1860, FEL, RCK54P MMM, BB1548 Box Scraper, Quick Hitch, Piranha Bar, BX6315
Until you figure out the problem you might try locking the 3 point hitch by closing the knob that is just below the seat. Turn that knob clockwise to lock the 3 point in the position you want it to stay at. The knob I am speaking of is not the one with numbers on it.
raise the hitch with a load on it.
turn off the implement drop speed adjuster (knob). Turn engine off, wait. Does it still leak down? If yes, the cylinder will need to come off of the transmission and be rebuilt with new seals. It'd be advisable to check for wear in the bore and on the piston too. If it does not leak down, the drop speed adjuster is leaking internally.
There is also a remote possibility of the control valve leaking although that is very remote and honestly at this point I shouldn't have mentioned it. If it had a problem, you'd have other problems like lack of lift.
turn off the implement drop speed adjuster (knob). Turn engine off, wait. Does it still leak down? If yes, the cylinder will need to come off of the transmission and be rebuilt with new seals. It'd be advisable to check for wear in the bore and on the piston too. If it does not leak down, the drop speed adjuster is leaking internally.
There is also a remote possibility of the control valve leaking although that is very remote and honestly at this point I shouldn't have mentioned it. If it had a problem, you'd have other problems like lack of lift.
I raised the 3pt all the way up, closed the speed adjuster, shut off the tractor and the 3pt still lowered itself, but not all the way. It seems as if it falls to a specific point and stays there.
This is my first compact tractor so I’m still figuring it out.
Ok, so what can I start working on to fix this issue? Is it possible to rebuild the cylinder myself? I’m sure this would be costly at the dealer.
RCW
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Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Do you have the workshop manual (WSM)?
if not I think kubotabooks.com has it.
I can’t swear to it but I think the WSM covers it.
if not I think kubotabooks.com has it.
I can’t swear to it but I think the WSM covers it.
Kubotabooks.com doesn't show a WorkShop Manual for the BX1850 but there is one for the BX1860. The parts look the same for that area, so it'll probably do for this. You can get the parts and proper manual from your dealer or online. Doesn't look too involved. Good luck!
And you can see a parts list at https://apps.kubotausa.com/illustrated-parts/ or Messick's.com or others.
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The following parts illustration is for your 1850.
The parts to be replaced are seal #70 and the backup ring #60 both very cheap items
Part #50 fits about 25 different tractors as do the O ring and backup ring.
The next pages are from a BX1800-2200 WSM but will be very similar to your 1850.
They show how to disassemble and extract the piston.
The WSM shows using compressed air to remove the piston, perhaps someone will comment on using the tractor's hydraulics.
Dave
The parts to be replaced are seal #70 and the backup ring #60 both very cheap items
Part #50 fits about 25 different tractors as do the O ring and backup ring.
The next pages are from a BX1800-2200 WSM but will be very similar to your 1850.
They show how to disassemble and extract the piston.
The WSM shows using compressed air to remove the piston, perhaps someone will comment on using the tractor's hydraulics.
Dave
Wow, this is great information! I did find a manual for my BX1850, and will look for this in my manual. Do you know if the body of the tractor needs to be removed for this repair?
I answered my own question once I found it in my WSM. Looks like most of the work is removing the body panels. All that for two rings? Crazy.
Do you guys think its possible I could have blown out that seal by moving my trailers around? biggest trailer I moved is my 18' boat trailer, but there isn't much tongue weight, lifted it no problem. I did just get the tractor, so I'm sure it needs some maintenance.
One more thing before I gear up to make this repair. Is there anything else I should look into first before diving into the ring replacement? Maybe something that can be easily worked on?
RCW
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Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Don't just blindly replace the seals if the cylinder/bore is in bad shape.
Only thing worse than doing something once, is doing it twice....
Think the same as if replacing pistons and rings on an engine.
If necessary, the bore might need a hone. Check WSM for that.
Otherwise, if the filtration system was working, you should be fine.
Good luck, and post your progress!!
RCW
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
I doubt it, unless you went 60 mph over plowed field....
They're made to lift weight, period. Probably shot when you bought it.