ZD323 won't start

Thatjohn

New member

Equipment
ZD323
Jul 22, 2020
4
0
1
Leighton, AL
I have a zd323 that 'sometimes' won't start unless I hook a battery charger to it. Sometimes it will. I have to move the blade engage level to find the sweet spot on the safety switch. Put a new switch here and it seemed to work fine for a month or two then the problem has returned. Some days it cranks fine by moving the blade lever, then other times i have to connect the BC to it and wait 5 mins or so. Only a small 10 amp charger. Hot or cold doesn't seem to matter on temps. Yesterday after waiting 15 mins with BC connected I switched to my truck with jumper cables and it cranked. Sometimes I've disconnected the fuse by the starter, then reconnected and it starts, other times this doesn't work and I go back to the battery charger. New battery had no affect either. Any ideas ????

Adding, I mean the starter won't engage when I say it won't start. I can hear the fuel pump running once the key is on. I can hear the solenoid or relays clicking as I move the blade lever to open and close the safety switch and with the key switch in the start position.

Just read this about a ZD28 from another forum, may be my issue:

I just posted this in answer to another question, but it applies here too. Consider a low voltage relay kit. When you turn the key electrical current flows from your ignition switch through your PTO neutral, clutch safety, and all the other safety switches, to the starter solenoid. When all the switches, cables and battery, etc. are new there is very little resistance.
With time and age, resistance builds up and eventually will cause a voltage drop at the starter solenoid. This voltage drop will vary according to temperature, humidity and other factors. That’s why some times it'll work fine and other times it won’t. The starter solenoid needs approx. 9 volts to fully engage, anything less and it won’t fully make contact to send current to run the starter motor. Yes it will click, but it needs just a little more power to fully seat on the contacts and allow the starter motor to run. Instead of replacing all the components in the system to reduce the voltage drop, try a low voltage starter relay. Several companies have come up with a pre-wired relay kit with instructions, John Deere, Scag, and others, have them available. The low voltage relay kit will work with as low as 4 volts.
Stop by your local John Deere dealer and get JD kit part #AM107421, it’s easy to install, It's pre-wired, comes with instructions. Mount the relay and change a few wires... The instructions that come with the kit and are easy to follow – a 15 minute job. The Parts man at a JD dealership told me about these kits years ago when I thought I needed a solenoid, he said it’s a common problem, and saved me a bunch of money. I have solved the “sometimes it just clicks” problem several times on different brands of machines with this kit.
 
Last edited:

Dave_eng

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
M7040, Nuffield 465
Oct 6, 2012
5,252
1,031
113
Williamstown Ontario Canada
I have a zd323 that 'sometimes' won't start unless I hook a battery charger to it. Sometimes it will. I have to move the blade engage level to find the sweet spot on the safety switch. Put a new switch here and it seemed to work fine for a month or two then the problem has returned. Some days it cranks fine by moving the blade lever, then other times i have to connect the BC to it and wait 5 mins or so. Only a small 10 amp charger. Hot or cold doesn't seem to matter on temps. Yesterday after waiting 15 mins with BC connected I switched to my truck with jumper cables and it cranked. Sometimes I've disconnected the fuse by the starter, then reconnected and it starts, other times this doesn't work and I go back to the battery charger. New battery had no affect either. Any ideas ????

Adding, I mean the starter won't engage when I say it won't start. I can hear the fuel pump running once the key is on. I can hear the solenoid or relays clicking as I move the blade lever to open and close the safety switch and with the key switch in the start position.

Just read this about a ZD28 from another forum, may be my issue:

I just posted this in answer to another question, but it applies here too. Consider a low voltage relay kit. When you turn the key electrical current flows from your ignition switch through your PTO neutral, clutch safety, and all the other safety switches, to the starter solenoid. When all the switches, cables and battery, etc. are new there is very little resistance.
With time and age, resistance builds up and eventually will cause a voltage drop at the starter solenoid. This voltage drop will vary according to temperature, humidity and other factors. That’s why some times it'll work fine and other times it won’t. The starter solenoid needs approx. 9 volts to fully engage, anything less and it won’t fully make contact to send current to run the starter motor. Yes it will click, but it needs just a little more power to fully seat on the contacts and allow the starter motor to run. Instead of replacing all the components in the system to reduce the voltage drop, try a low voltage starter relay. Several companies have come up with a pre-wired relay kit with instructions, John Deere, Scag, and others, have them available. The low voltage relay kit will work with as low as 4 volts.
Stop by your local John Deere dealer and get JD kit part #AM107421, it’s easy to install, It's pre-wired, comes with instructions. Mount the relay and change a few wires... The instructions that come with the kit and are easy to follow – a 15 minute job. The Parts man at a JD dealership told me about these kits years ago when I thought I needed a solenoid, he said it’s a common problem, and saved me a bunch of money. I have solved the “sometimes it just clicks” problem several times on different brands of machines with this kit.
You need to invest in a 12 volt test light for about $10.
Test light.jpg


Connect the alligator clip to the battery ground and use the sharp end to touch the solenoid trigger terminal as you turn the key to start.

If you have not power at all to the solenoid then the relay kit can do nothing.

Dave
 

lugbolt

Well-known member

Equipment
ZG127S-54
Oct 15, 2015
5,383
2,080
113
Mid, South, USA
There are times when a test light is a godsend.

Testing starter trigger wiring isn't one of them. All it tells you is if you have juice or if you don't, it won't show you if the voltage is "low" like most of them are.

Why would voltage be low? Look at your wiring diagram, easy to figure out. It's either key switch, wiring, starter relay or ground (usually).
 

Thatjohn

New member

Equipment
ZD323
Jul 22, 2020
4
0
1
Leighton, AL
You need to invest in a 12 volt test light for about $10. View attachment 46343

Connect the alligator clip to the battery ground and use the sharp end to touch the solenoid trigger terminal as you turn the key to start.

If you have not power at all to the solenoid then the relay kit can do nothing.

Dave
I've already done this kind of basic testing.
 

Thatjohn

New member

Equipment
ZD323
Jul 22, 2020
4
0
1
Leighton, AL
There are times when a test light is a godsend.

Testing starter trigger wiring isn't one of them. All it tells you is if you have juice or if you don't, it won't show you if the voltage is "low" like most of them are.

Why would voltage be low? Look at your wiring diagram, easy to figure out. It's either key switch, wiring, starter relay or ground (usually).
I agree with you Lugbolt about the test light. Plus if what Dave is saying was the problem it wouldn't be cranking one time and not crank the next time.

Before my first post I had already taken by ground off and cleaned those contact points. Cleaned battery post and cables as well.
 

Thatjohn

New member

Equipment
ZD323
Jul 22, 2020
4
0
1
Leighton, AL
I have a zd323 that 'sometimes' won't start unless I hook a battery charger to it. Sometimes it will. I have to move the blade engage level to find the sweet spot on the safety switch. Put a new switch here and it seemed to work fine for a month or two then the problem has returned. Some days it cranks fine by moving the blade lever, then other times i have to connect the BC to it and wait 5 mins or so. Only a small 10 amp charger. Hot or cold doesn't seem to matter on temps. Yesterday after waiting 15 mins with BC connected I switched to my truck with jumper cables and it cranked. Sometimes I've disconnected the fuse by the starter, then reconnected and it starts, other times this doesn't work and I go back to the battery charger. New battery had no affect either. Any ideas ????

Adding, I mean the starter won't engage when I say it won't start. I can hear the fuel pump running once the key is on. I can hear the solenoid or relays clicking as I move the blade lever to open and close the safety switch and with the key switch in the start position.

Just read this about a ZD28 from another forum, may be my issue:

I just posted this in answer to another question, but it applies here too. Consider a low voltage relay kit. When you turn the key electrical current flows from your ignition switch through your PTO neutral, clutch safety, and all the other safety switches, to the starter solenoid. When all the switches, cables and battery, etc. are new there is very little resistance.
With time and age, resistance builds up and eventually will cause a voltage drop at the starter solenoid. This voltage drop will vary according to temperature, humidity and other factors. That’s why some times it'll work fine and other times it won’t. The starter solenoid needs approx. 9 volts to fully engage, anything less and it won’t fully make contact to send current to run the starter motor. Yes it will click, but it needs just a little more power to fully seat on the contacts and allow the starter motor to run. Instead of replacing all the components in the system to reduce the voltage drop, try a low voltage starter relay. Several companies have come up with a pre-wired relay kit with instructions, John Deere, Scag, and others, have them available. The low voltage relay kit will work with as low as 4 volts.
Stop by your local John Deere dealer and get JD kit part #AM107421, it’s easy to install, It's pre-wired, comes with instructions. Mount the relay and change a few wires... The instructions that come with the kit and are easy to follow – a 15 minute job. The Parts man at a JD dealership told me about these kits years ago when I thought I needed a solenoid, he said it’s a common problem, and saved me a bunch of money. I have solved the “sometimes it just clicks” problem several times on different brands of machines with this kit.
Update:
I purchased a AM107421 low voltage relay kit from the local JD dealer and now it cranks like a CHAMP !!
It was $68.42 plus tax but it fixed my problem. To me that was easier and cheaper than replacing all the safety switches, key switch and chasing resistance ghost.