So many options!

[BuckeyeStateOfMind]

Hey all!

Just bought 6 acres of farmland and about 2 months away from having a completed house on it. I have a creek in the back of the property with a tree line that is roughly 40 feet deep. I also have a 400 ft gravel driveway i will have to maintain. I plan to use the tractor as my mower as well (roughly 4.5 acres to mow). Also, living in Ohio, we do get some snow storms, so i was thinking a hydraulic angle blade for the front of the tractor. Lastly, i also have tons of grading that i will need to do (there used to be an old barn sitting at the front of the property in front of the house and it was on an elevated pad).

I have been tossing around the Deere 1025R, 2025R, 2032R (price is a bit stiff) but i have had TERRIBLE service from the two AgPro dealers that are close to me. So i stumbled into a mom and pop Kubota dealership that's been around for 40 years, and two hours later im pretty set on buying from them.

While i was there i was eyeing the B2601 but the sales guy i was working with, who i felt trustworthy, was leaning me toward the B2301. Small bit cheaper, but still capable.

What do you all think? He said the B2601 was a great tractor, but didnt know if the differences were worth the cost for what i want to do. Of course, i started eying the B2650 and thinking to myself "well its only a few thousand more," though im sure my finance committee wouldnt love that idea haha

Appreciate the wisdom of this forum!

 

[Talkstogoats]

Congrats on the new place!
I don't think you can go wrong with either choice, but if I had to face a financial committee for their approval, I would opt for the tractor that would allow me to add a rear remote option, along with the three function valve, front end loader.....
believe me when I say, it won't be long before you wish you had one.

 

[chim]

I'll jump in [EDIT - Type too slow} first second and there'll be plenty of others with other ideas. We have 3.5 acres, creek, 100 yard driveway, trees and a couple sheds to mow around. Winters range from nearly snow-free to occasional Real Winters.

The fifth and most likely final tractor we have is an L4240 with loader-mounted 8' power angle Fisher snow plow. Angle is done with factory third function plumbing. Mower is a Caroni 90" rear mower. I can go slow and still get the mowing done in around 1-1/2 hours. The ZT crowd will soon be along to tell you that using anything except a Zero is unwise and regardless of how long it takes you with a tractor, they can mow in half the time

The plow is mounted on the FEL frame and is tucked back under some to reduce the stickout on the front.

Couldn't be happier. Up till this tractor it seemed like I could frequently use more HP or a bit more loader capability. The three range HST with HI/LO in each range is a very useful feature.

My 71 YO body appreciates the factory cab with HVAC. Warm in Winter and cool in Summer. Keeps bugs, dust etc. off me and is nice to be able to spray chemicals without wearing them.

Once or twice a year I walk the property with a DeWalt 20V hedge trimmer before that week's mowing and wave it at any branches that might rub the cab. Then I mow and the Caroni deck makes the trimmings into pieces small enough to disappear.

 

[El Jefe]

What kind of mower do you want? If you don’t want a mid mount mower you could go with a L2501 which you would definitely appreciate for grading and driveway maintenance-it’s a lot of tractor for the money. Not much more expensive vs the B series but it’s a little more utilitarian (less plastic). The B2650 is discontinued, replaced by the lx2610. There is a lower cost version lx2610SU which is then same tractor minus the mid pto, fancy seat, tilt wheel for a cost savings. However if you want a mid mount mower or if you think you’ll ever want a front snow blower you’re right to look at the B series or the lx. As stated above, definitely third function and rear remotes for your jobs.

 

[BuckeyeStateOfMind]

Congrats on the new place!
I don't think you can go wrong with either choice, but if I had to face a financial committee for their approval, I would opt for the tractor that would allow me to add a rear remote option, along with the three function valve, front end loader.....
believe me when I say, it won't be long before you wish you had one.

Help me out here since im a newbie to this, what does the rear remote option and three function valve do? Is the third function for something such as a grapple?

thanks!

 

[BuckeyeStateOfMind]

I'll jump in [EDIT - Type too slow} first second and there'll be plenty of others with other ideas. We have 3.5 acres, creek, 100 yard driveway, trees and a couple sheds to mow around. Winters range from nearly snow-free to occasional Real Winters.

The fifth and most likely final tractor we have is an L4240 with loader-mounted 8' power angle Fisher snow plow. Angle is done with factory third function plumbing. Mower is a Caroni 90" rear mower. I can go slow and still get the mowing done in around 1-1/2 hours. The ZT crowd will soon be along to tell you that using anything except a Zero is unwise and regardless of how long it takes you with a tractor, they can mow in half the time

The plow is mounted on the FEL frame and is tucked back under some to reduce the stickout on the front.

Couldn't be happier. Up till this tractor it seemed like I could frequently use more HP or a bit more loader capability. The three range HST with HI/LO in each range is a very useful feature.

My 71 YO body appreciates the factory cab with HVAC. Warm in Winter and cool in Summer. Keeps bugs, dust etc. off me and is nice to be able to spray chemicals without wearing them.

Once or twice a year I walk the property with a DeWalt 20V hedge trimmer before that week's mowing and wave it at any branches that might rub the cab. Then I mow and the Caroni deck makes the trimmings into pieces small enough to disappear.

Appreciate the feedback!

 

[BuckeyeStateOfMind]

What kind of mower do you want? If you don’t want a mid mount mower you could go with a L2501 which you would definitely appreciate for grading and driveway maintenance-it’s a lot of tractor for the money. Not much more expensive vs the B series but it’s a little more utilitarian (less plastic). The B2650 is discontinued, replaced by the lx2610. There is a lower cost version lx2610SU which is then same tractor minus the mid pto, fancy seat, tilt wheel for a cost savings. However if you want a mid mount mower or if you think you’ll ever want a front snow blower you’re right to look at the B series or the lx. As stated above, definitely third function and rear remotes for your jobs.

Honestly, a MMM. I have read horror stories of having a suspended vs. roll type of mower deck as the suspended seem to scalp, but honestly, my land is pretty flat (think former corn field with a slight rolling hill around the back corner.)

 

[MOOTS]

Help me out here since im a newbie to this, what does the rear remote option and three function valve do? Is the third function for something such as a grapple?

thanks!

Correct. 3rd function can operate a grapple or a snow blower chute rotation.
Rear remotes can operate a top and tilt kit, raise and lower tow behind disc, angle on a scrape blade, log splitter and many other attachments.

 

[BuckeyeStateOfMind]

Correct. 3rd function can operate a grapple or a snow blower chute rotation.
Rear remotes can operate a top and tilt kit, raise and lower tow behind disc, angle on a scrape blade, log splitter and many other attachments.

thanks!

 

[Talkstogoats]

A third function valve set up will also allow you to use a front plow blade that has a pivot ram.... You'll be able to change the direction of your "throw" from the seat, without having to stop and manually change the blade.

 

[bx tractorjoe]

You will definitely want the rear hydraulics for top n tilt for the driveway crown and grading so you can angle the box blade from the seat.. I would also get the rear quick attach and rear mower instead of a mmm for the ammout of land you have.. so much easier to remove and service over the belly mower..

Unless you are mowing alot of fence line and really tight spots the rear mounted mower works better.. also good for going under trees and bushes..

Here are some pictures of my l2501 with top n till and quick attach.

You might want to think about the cab tractor for snow, and those

hot summer days.. more money but will be worth it when its 20 degrees and you're pushing snow or 95 and mowing

 

[chim]

Help me out here since im a newbie to this, what does the rear remote option and three function valve do? Is the third function for something such as a grapple?

thanks!

Rear remotes would be to operate hydraulics behind the tractor (although I've read that some owners plumbed them to the front.

Third function in my case is a pair of hydraulic lines that terminate in connectors on the loader frame. I use them to swing the plow. There's an ON/OFF button on the loader joystick that enables two momentary contact buttons also on the stick. One button operates solenoids to cause flow out on one line and in on the other. The second button makes it flow in the other direction.

The outlets are on the left side of the picture.

 

[PaulL]

Recapping what I think I hear:

• 6 acres, 4.5 of them to mow, land reasonably flat
• 400ft of gravel drive to manage
• snow - prefer a plow not a blower
• grading around the property
• some trees to manage

Questions that might help to give better advice, depending on what you are seeking to do:

• mowing - are you planning 4.5 acres of lawn, or smaller amount of house quality lawn, and larger rough mow? What mower you want on the tractor will depend a bit on that
• trimming trees - are you going to need to pick up lots of tree trimmings - i.e. do you need a grapple
• running a chipper to clean up tree trimmings? Sounds like you have enough land to just make a burn pile, or leave them in trees on the ground though
• splitter for firewood? Sometimes a standalone engine powered splitter costs little more than a 3ph hydraulic splitter, and lets you use your tractor FEL to throw the split firewood into (if you're not splitting right by your shed
• no mention of FEL tasks, but you'd be crazy not to have an FEL on a farm that size
• things on pallets to move? Just to move, or to stack? 3ph pallet forks great for moving things around (like loads of firewood, or tools you're taking to wherever you're working), FEL pallet forks great for unloading things and stacking things
• Are you set on a front hydraulic blade? Lot of people using a rear blade for snow. No snow in NZ, so I have no experience with that

Machines and thoughts:

• BX series. Too small really for that much property, but it's a keen little tractor and would do it if you really asked it to. I wouldn't though, both for the 2 speed gearbox (6 acres is some territory to cover when you're slow) and lack of position control (you have a driveway to manage, position control makes grading easier)
• B01 series are good machines, at the smaller end of what most would recommend for 6 acres
• B50/LX is the larger option that's still got a MMM and mid PTO
• L2501 is a bargain machine that does way more tractor stuff than the others. But it's not really a mowing machine in the same way

Decision points:

• What sort of mower do you want? A MMM means you need a B or LX series. But you've got a lot of land to mow, if you're finish mowing it I'd go a RFM with that much land - and I'd pull a big / wide one to get it done faster. That opens up the L option if you wanted
• Will you ever want a front snow blower? If not, you don't need a mid-PTO, again opens up the L option
• How much HP do you need? You haven't described any tasks that require tractor HP - they're all traction or hydraulic limited tasks other than maybe mowing. If you're getting a MMM then you won't run out of HP, if you want a large RFM you might want more HP. Snow blowing or running something big off the rear PTO would be what uses a lot of HP
• Do you want anything on the front that adjusts without you getting off. That hydraulic tilting blade, or a grapple, both need a 3rd function kit to allow you to adjust them
• Do you want anything on the back that adjusts without you getting off, or that runs from hydraulics. Examples are 3ph splitter, a top and tilt kit to allow you to adjust your box blade or land plane to crown your driveway. If so you need rear remotes. On these smaller tractors I'm of the view it's not too hard to get off and adjust, and that mostly your driveway has the same adjustment for the whole 400ft, then you turn around and come back other side, again same adjustment. But I don't actually have a gravel drive, so don't listen to me.
• Quick attach (SSQA) on the FEL I'd recommend

The B2301 will do the job. It lifts exactly the same as the 2601 (hydraulics the same), and pulls just as hard (they run out of traction before they run out of HP). It might have trouble driving a big RFM, and the largest MMM is 60".

The B2650/LX2610 would do a better job. Lifts more, moves more. 72" mower. I think you can run a 90" RFM?

Mowing - I'm assuming you're finish mowing, but if you're rough mowing some of it, consider a flail mower, which does OK finish mowing and also OK rough mowing. Not quite a bush hog, not quite a finish mower. I'd lean towards a flail or a RFM for your size, unless you have things to go around. Pushing it under trees is really useful.

I'd get a grapple or front forks, box blade or land plane, 3rd function, maybe rear remotes for top and tilt.

Spending other people's money is fun!!

 

[PaulL]

Mowing uphill. That's the other task that eats HP. The combination of going uphill and running a big mower, particularly in longer or thicker grass, could bog you down. I've seen people having issues with that. The 23/26 HP in the B01, or 26/33HP in the LX could matter there.

Also elevation. If you're very high a turbo engine will go much better - the turbo runs to a constant pressure so it compensates for elevation, an NA engine loses power with altitude. I think Ohio's pretty flat though, right?

 

[BuckeyeStateOfMind]

Mowing uphill. That's the other task that eats HP. The combination of going uphill and running a big mower, particularly in longer or thicker grass, could bog you down. I've seen people having issues with that. The 23/26 HP in the B01, or 26/33HP in the LX could matter there.

Also elevation. If you're very high a turbo engine will go much better - the turbo runs to a constant pressure so it compensates for elevation, an NA engine loses power with altitude. I think Ohio's pretty flat though, right?

Ohio is flat and pretty low to sea level. My bit of land is very flat with some slight grading but i wouldnt call it a hill in any way. Most of it is wide open former farmland.

 

[BuckeyeStateOfMind]

Recapping what I think I hear:

• 6 acres, 4.5 of them to mow, land reasonably flat
• 400ft of gravel drive to manage
• snow - prefer a plow not a blower
• grading around the property
• some trees to manage

Questions that might help to give better advice, depending on what you are seeking to do:

• mowing - are you planning 4.5 acres of lawn, or smaller amount of house quality lawn, and larger rough mow? What mower you want on the tractor will depend a bit on that
• trimming trees - are you going to need to pick up lots of tree trimmings - i.e. do you need a grapple
• running a chipper to clean up tree trimmings? Sounds like you have enough land to just make a burn pile, or leave them in trees on the ground though
• splitter for firewood? Sometimes a standalone engine powered splitter costs little more than a 3ph hydraulic splitter, and lets you use your tractor FEL to throw the split firewood into (if you're not splitting right by your shed
• no mention of FEL tasks, but you'd be crazy not to have an FEL on a farm that size
• things on pallets to move? Just to move, or to stack? 3ph pallet forks great for moving things around (like loads of firewood, or tools you're taking to wherever you're working), FEL pallet forks great for unloading things and stacking things
• Are you set on a front hydraulic blade? Lot of people using a rear blade for snow. No snow in NZ, so I have no experience with that

Machines and thoughts:

• BX series. Too small really for that much property, but it's a keen little tractor and would do it if you really asked it to. I wouldn't though, both for the 2 speed gearbox (6 acres is some territory to cover when you're slow) and lack of position control (you have a driveway to manage, position control makes grading easier)
• B01 series are good machines, at the smaller end of what most would recommend for 6 acres
• B50/LX is the larger option that's still got a MMM and mid PTO
• L2501 is a bargain machine that does way more tractor stuff than the others. But it's not really a mowing machine in the same way

Decision points:

• What sort of mower do you want? A MMM means you need a B or LX series. But you've got a lot of land to mow, if you're finish mowing it I'd go a RFM with that much land - and I'd pull a big / wide one to get it done faster. That opens up the L option if you wanted
• Will you ever want a front snow blower? If not, you don't need a mid-PTO, again opens up the L option
• How much HP do you need? You haven't described any tasks that require tractor HP - they're all traction or hydraulic limited tasks other than maybe mowing. If you're getting a MMM then you won't run out of HP, if you want a large RFM you might want more HP. Snow blowing or running something big off the rear PTO would be what uses a lot of HP
• Do you want anything on the front that adjusts without you getting off. That hydraulic tilting blade, or a grapple, both need a 3rd function kit to allow you to adjust them
• Do you want anything on the back that adjusts without you getting off, or that runs from hydraulics. Examples are 3ph splitter, a top and tilt kit to allow you to adjust your box blade or land plane to crown your driveway. If so you need rear remotes. On these smaller tractors I'm of the view it's not too hard to get off and adjust, and that mostly your driveway has the same adjustment for the whole 400ft, then you turn around and come back other side, again same adjustment. But I don't actually have a gravel drive, so don't listen to me.
• Quick attach (SSQA) on the FEL I'd recommend

The B2301 will do the job. It lifts exactly the same as the 2601 (hydraulics the same), and pulls just as hard (they run out of traction before they run out of HP). It might have trouble driving a big RFM, and the largest MMM is 60".

The B2650/LX2610 would do a better job. Lifts more, moves more. 72" mower. I think you can run a 90" RFM?

Mowing - I'm assuming you're finish mowing, but if you're rough mowing some of it, consider a flail mower, which does OK finish mowing and also OK rough mowing. Not quite a bush hog, not quite a finish mower. I'd lean towards a flail or a RFM for your size, unless you have things to go around. Pushing it under trees is really useful.

I'd get a grapple or front forks, box blade or land plane, 3rd function, maybe rear remotes for top and tilt.

Spending other people's money is fun!!

Great assessment!

Right now, a B2301 with LED Rop Lights, Ballast Box, Loader, 2 lever quick coupler, 60" QA bucket, 60" MMM, Rear remote, 3rd function, QH & Subframe, 60" Blade with Hydraulic Angle, and a box blade bring me to $25,500. I was told for the LX2610 and a 72" MMM, add about $3500.

 

[Talkstogoats]

I'd like that B2301 package at that price... Leaves room for a grapple, or other piece of equipment.

 

[PaulL]

The problem is that there's always another model just a little bit up, that's only about 10-15% more cash. My immediate reaction is that the LX2610 is a lot more tractor for $3,500 more, and 72" is a lot more mower than 60" (well, about 15% more). You'd also probably get a bigger blade though, and a few other implements would cost more. You can't go wrong with a B2301, but if you can stretch a bit more I suspect you'd be happier with the LX2610.

 

[nbryan]

I have a bush hog on my B2650, for clearing the tall tough stuff when needed, or those fields that only get cut yearly.
I went with a JD D140 mower for the "lawn" areas - I guess I have around 2.5 acres I keep mowed. I weighed getting a mid-mount for the kubota, but I run my tractor through a lot of bush and terrain that would keep the mid-mount in the shed, and now in summer the mowing is needed at least once a week. And the clearing power of the old 5' bush hog takes care of the rest.