Tractor won't start - Now fixed

[terrib972]

I have a B7100. About a year ago, I drove it into the storage building, put a trickle charger on the battery and it hasn't moved since. Now it won't start. No sound, no anything. When I turn the key to on, the oil lamp lights briefly then goes out. Turning the key to preheat does nothing, waiting as long as a minute. The clutch lever is pushed, both gear shift and PTO are in neutral, brake is engaged. Here's what I've checked:

Battery has a full charge.
Battery terminals don't appear corroded.
I found no chewed up or loose wires.
I found 3 fuses near the starter and those look good.
Headlights won't come on but maybe they won't operate without engine running?

Are there any other relatively simple things that I can check? I'm a 62 yo widow with very little mechanical experience. I had planned to take the tractor to a dealer for service and general maintenance check and it sure would be a lot easier to drive it onto the trailer rather than having to use a come-along. Any ideas are appreciated. Thank you!

 

[SidecarFlip]

New battery time. Just because a battery shows full charge means nothing. Called a surface charge and once you call for amps, it's done.

 

[terrib972]

New battery time. Just because a battery shows full charge means nothing. Called a surface charge and once you call for amps, it's done.

I should have mentioned that the battery is only a couple of years old. It's also a maintenance free battery so also not caused by me letting it go dry. I can't imagine that is the problem. Also, it still tests full charge after being off the trickle charger now for several days.

 

[fj40dave]

Jump start it....see if that works.

Check your negative ground attach/connection to the frame.

It does sound like the volt/amp's are the issue though.

 

[JerryMT]

I should have mentioned that the battery is only a couple of years old. It's also a maintenance free battery so also not caused by me letting it go dry. I can't imagine that is the problem. Also, it still tests full charge after being off the trickle charger now for several days.

Waelcome to the Forum.

What are you testing it with? If it's a volt meter, that's not a good way to test it.

You can try jumping it from your car or take it out to a auto supply sore and have them test it.
Me thinks you are looking at a new battery.

 

[SidecarFlip]

I should have mentioned that the battery is only a couple of years old. It's also a maintenance free battery so also not caused by me letting it go dry. I can't imagine that is the problem. Also, it still tests full charge after being off the trickle charger now for several days.

Means nothing if it shows full charge. Full charge is actually about 13.2 volts static.

The only way to determine if a battery isn't shot is load test it, which is exactly what you are doing by drawing amperage.

I use a carbon pile load tester, you used your tractor...

Maintenance free is a misnomer. All flooded cell batteries gas off. All a maintenance free battery has the a convention flooded cell batter with individual cell caps is a baffle cover that joins multiple cells, condenses the gas and returns it to the cell, well most of it. Some still escapes (that cover has a little vent in the side), so it still uses water (not electrolyte, the electrolyte says in the battery but as the cells drop in volume the concentration of acid goes up and that isn't good.

Again, get a new battery and make sure the terminals on top are clean and shiny and the ground cable is clean where it attaches to the frame. Likewise the positive cable terminals where they attach to the starter.

 

[Lil Foot]

I agree with everyone above. Engine does not have to be running for headlights to work, but key has to be in the "ON" position. Sounds like a new battery is in your future.

 

[Lil Foot]

If you are still convinced the battery is good, HF sells a cheap but serviceable load tester, not professional quality, but good enough to verify wether a small tractor battery will pull a load.

100 Amp, 6/12V Battery Load Tester

Amazing deals on this 100 Amp 6/12V Battery Load Tester at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

[SidecarFlip]

The 'benchmark' I use for any battery purchase is...

If it's a dry charged battery the below don't apply because the battery begins it's life when you add the electrolyte but...

With a flooded cell battery, never buy one with a dusty top. Always buy from a volume dealer and pay no attention to the date code on the top. It means nothing.

The battery started it's useful life when it had electrolyte added at the factory and it's all downhill from there.

So, you buy a battery from some mom and pop shop and it could have been sitting there for a year possibly 2, waiting for you to buy it. All the while it was getting older and more feeble.

Having said that, get an Interstate or a Deka or a Crown. Distributors of those brands turn over stale inventory so your chances of getting a newer one are much better than some off brand.

Batteries are funny things. people fail to maintain them and when they puke (and they all do eventually) people say. it's not the battery. usually, it is.

Whatever you buy, trickle charge it before installing. People don't do that and it shortens the battery life if you don't.

 

[SidecarFlip]

If you are still convinced the battery is good, HF sells a cheap but serviceable load tester, not professional quality, but good enough to verify wether a small tractor battery will pull a load.

100 Amp, 6/12V Battery Load Tester

Amazing deals on this 100 Amp 6/12V Battery Load Tester at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

Exactly what I use. Cheap reliable carbon pile tester. Made in China of course.

 

[BX23S]

I agree with all. When it comes to battery testing a VOM is useless, get the HF battery load tester.

 

[terrib972]

OK. Thank you all for your replies. At least if it is the battery, that is an easy fix.

 

[UpNorthMI]

OK. Thank you all for your replies. At least if it is the battery, that is an easy fix.

Terri,
Please let us know how you get on and if a replacement battery solves the problem, welcome to the forum.

 

[Dave_eng]

Exactly what I use. Cheap reliable carbon pile tester. Made in China of course.

That is not a carbon pile tester but rather just a resistance wire like in a toaster.
A serious load test needs to draw more than 100 amps

Dave

 

[Russell King]

Since you’re planning on getting it to the dealer you can jump start it and let the dealer check the battery if you can get it started. They sell fairly light jump starter battery packs that are easy to carry into the shed if you’re not able to get a vehicle inside to use as the good battery.

I’m sure if you asked a neighbor they would be happy to help try to jumpstart it if you’re not comfortable trying that.

 

[coachgeo]

just pull the battery and take it to auto parts store. 99% load test them for free as does wally world

 

[SidecarFlip]

That is not a carbon pile tester but rather just a resistance wire like in a toaster.
A serious load test needs to draw more than 100 amps

Dave

Whatever Dave. Her battery won't even heat it up anyway.

 

[PitViper]

Trickle charger, or battery tender? If it was getting a constant 1.5 amp charge for a year...

I had a harbor freight trickle charger boil a 6 month old deep cycle battery

 

[terrib972]

Trickle charger, or battery tender? If it was getting a constant 1.5 amp charge for a year...

I had a harbor freight trickle charger boil a 6 month old deep cycle battery

I have to admit I don't know. It's what I thought my husband used to put on equipment when it was going to sit for a long time. I'll have to look at it because there's a few of them in the shop. I could be using the wrong thing or I could just be using the wrong term.

 

[terrib972]

I finally got around to dealing with this so wanted to update with resolution. Y'all were right. A new battery fixed the problem.