I changed the transmission filter on my L3200 to a newer version with a magnet. When I did, some transmission oil came out. I dont know how much came out so I estimated how much to add. After running the tractor I noticed some oil blowout from the small back vent tube (I think its a vent tube) near the seat. My question is, should I be worried that I over-filled it? Or will it just blow out?
Can I over-fill transmission
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BigG
Well-known member
Equipment
l2501, FEL, BB, Rotary cutter, rake,spreader, roller, etc. New Holland TL80 A
On the clutch side of the hump is a sight glass for the oil level. It should be about in the middle of the sight glass. And yes you need to drain it until it is a the proper level.
Issue is, if it's overtfilled, the oil sets against the input seal in the bellhousing and the pto stub seal out back and neither seal is designed to have oil constantly against it and will eventually start to leak.
The correct fluid level (in the sight glass or on the dipstick if you have one corresponds to the fluid just at the bottom edge of both seals when the tractor is level. I tend to run mine a bit low (halfway up on my dipstick )rather than to the top. Same deal with engine oil. Anywhere between full and low is good.
The correct fluid level (in the sight glass or on the dipstick if you have one corresponds to the fluid just at the bottom edge of both seals when the tractor is level. I tend to run mine a bit low (halfway up on my dipstick )rather than to the top. Same deal with engine oil. Anywhere between full and low is good.
It’s real easy to overfill the hydraulic oil as the volume needed to take the oil level from the bottom of the sight glass past the top of the sight glass is really not that much. My suggestion is to undo the transmission hst filter on the left side and drain some hydraulic fluid out and at the same time watch the sight glass for the level to become visible in the glass, re tighten the filter then add back the fluid little at a time to get it back to the center of the sight glass.
I have a L3200 HST, I seem to remember that the hst transmission filter is on the left side of the tractor and does not have a magnet, the hydraulic oil filter ( suction filter) is on the right side of the tractor and has a magnet. Which did you replace? Did you find a transmission left hand filter with a magnet?
How much did you add? I've run mine overfilled for years, no leaks but I also don't have it blowing out the vent, either. My early model actually had a "Product Improvement Bulletin" when owners complained about the ratching noise of the dry over-ridding CAMS. The sight glass was replace with a mini dip stick to submerge the CAMS in oil (to lessen the sound). About a gallon extra, if I remember correctly.
whitetiger
Moderator
Staff member
Equipment
Kubota tech..BX2370, RCK60, B7100HST, RTV900 w plow, Ford 1100 FWA
That is total BS. Those seals are designed to hold oil no matter how submerged they may be. When the hydraulic oil level is at the full mark, oil is halfway up the seal by design. Another example, the mid-PTO shaft seal spends its entire life totally submerged as do the front axle shaft seals on FWA tractors. The mower deck gearbox output shaft seal is below all the oil, the same as a rotary cutter gearbox, etc. I could list hundreds of oil seals below the oil level, holding oil as designed.
Manual calls for Kubota Super UDT 2 for the transmission for non HST model. I'm not qualified to comment on alternatives but suggest that you review past posts on the forum here.
Here is a good starting place:
Hydraulic fluid options
This my thread to help iron out misconceptions on Kubota useable hydraulic fluids. I will use Numbers and values, Not opinions or favorites! If you have a fluid or group that you would like included send me a PM here, and any information that help validate your pick...
www.orangetractortalks.com
I only run HST tractors and most owners stick with Super UDT-2 fluid, many refer to it as Liquid Gold as it is expensive.
If it's the generic TSC stuff, maybe, maybe not. I stay away from that stuff as a rule.
Like anything in life, you get what you pay for and cheap is usually just that.
I have a L3600 split in my shop at home (brother's tractor) doing the propeller shaft seals.
Has used Traveler fluid in it. I grabbed a bucket and looked at the specs. Kubota does not and has not ever published any specification of their UDT or Super UDT2 fluids. On the Traveler bucket it says "meets kubota spec".....Well....what spec is it?
I work for a dealer and years ago I asked our kubota tech regional guy about propeller shaft seals and why they're common failure points. I was told....cheap fluid....tends to shrink the rubber inside the two collars. Makes sense, every one of them I have done, the collars (or sleeves I guess they really are) aren't really that tight on the shaft, but installing the new ones IS tight. My brother's tractor? The sleeves slid right off by hand with very little effort.
And...have an L2900 split at work, GST clutch discs are garbage. I'm told that traveler doesn't do well with wet clutch linings and sometimes brake linings.
I'm going with sidecarflip on his statement. Cheap is just that. And since I own some equipment and am a working stiff with very little money to spend, I totally understanding saving a dime. However, I also understand you either spend it now, or you spend it later in multiples. It's hard to swallow the price and at the same time I could care less about working on equipment after I get off work, so I spend a little more ahead of time and work a lot less at home.
But at work, I prefer to work on stuff rather than sitting on my fat backside doing nothing, so by all means...dump water or whatever you want in that transmission. Just kidding of course. I'd rather folks never have any problems with their equipment. I can always find something to do.
To drain a little out, loosen the hydraulic filter (not the hst filter)--it is on the RIGHT side (as you are sitting on the tractor) just a little, with bucket under it. Let it just dribble out. Go to the other side and watch the sight window. When it gets to about 3/4, walk back around and tighten the filter, it will continue to drop a little but usually ends up about 1/2 by time you walk back around the tractor. Mind you, you cannot check the fluid level with hot fluid and you cannot check it on unlevel ground. Must be level, must have set at least 1 hour to properly check the level, as it will rise a little as the fluid temp increases and it will fall a little as temp decreases. And finally the fluid tends to get bubbles in it from the froth of being run between all the gears, etc, so you need to let it sit a while before checking the fluid level in the glass.
Lastly, a fluid evactuator works WONDERS for doing what you did, changing the drain bolt, or just changing the filter. BTW the hydraulic filter has a magnet on it already if you didn't know. The evacuator is just another tool that people say they never need, but it is the most important and most used tool that I personally own.
Has used Traveler fluid in it. I grabbed a bucket and looked at the specs. Kubota does not and has not ever published any specification of their UDT or Super UDT2 fluids. On the Traveler bucket it says "meets kubota spec".....Well....what spec is it?
I work for a dealer and years ago I asked our kubota tech regional guy about propeller shaft seals and why they're common failure points. I was told....cheap fluid....tends to shrink the rubber inside the two collars. Makes sense, every one of them I have done, the collars (or sleeves I guess they really are) aren't really that tight on the shaft, but installing the new ones IS tight. My brother's tractor? The sleeves slid right off by hand with very little effort.
And...have an L2900 split at work, GST clutch discs are garbage. I'm told that traveler doesn't do well with wet clutch linings and sometimes brake linings.
I'm going with sidecarflip on his statement. Cheap is just that. And since I own some equipment and am a working stiff with very little money to spend, I totally understanding saving a dime. However, I also understand you either spend it now, or you spend it later in multiples. It's hard to swallow the price and at the same time I could care less about working on equipment after I get off work, so I spend a little more ahead of time and work a lot less at home.
But at work, I prefer to work on stuff rather than sitting on my fat backside doing nothing, so by all means...dump water or whatever you want in that transmission. Just kidding of course. I'd rather folks never have any problems with their equipment. I can always find something to do.
To drain a little out, loosen the hydraulic filter (not the hst filter)--it is on the RIGHT side (as you are sitting on the tractor) just a little, with bucket under it. Let it just dribble out. Go to the other side and watch the sight window. When it gets to about 3/4, walk back around and tighten the filter, it will continue to drop a little but usually ends up about 1/2 by time you walk back around the tractor. Mind you, you cannot check the fluid level with hot fluid and you cannot check it on unlevel ground. Must be level, must have set at least 1 hour to properly check the level, as it will rise a little as the fluid temp increases and it will fall a little as temp decreases. And finally the fluid tends to get bubbles in it from the froth of being run between all the gears, etc, so you need to let it sit a while before checking the fluid level in the glass.
Lastly, a fluid evactuator works WONDERS for doing what you did, changing the drain bolt, or just changing the filter. BTW the hydraulic filter has a magnet on it already if you didn't know. The evacuator is just another tool that people say they never need, but it is the most important and most used tool that I personally own.