B7200 crankshaft oil leak

[Work Horse]

Hey guys,

It's exactly as the title says. Crankshaft seal is leaking pretty bad and will need to be replaced soon. This isn't my first leak - I fixed one at the oil filter housing and another at the hour meter cable housing on the front of the block. I'm wondering if there is too much pressure on the engine, how would I determine this? Or is it likely that it's just conditions of an old tractor?

From what I've been able to find the crank seal is a big bitch of a project, and If I have to go that route I'm guessing it would be wise to buy a complete engine gasket kit and do at least the front of the block/case and maybe the oil pan. I'd appreciate any thoughts/opinions on the matter. Thanks

 

[SidecarFlip]

Rear seal, yes. Front seal, no big deal. Rear involves a split.

 

[Work Horse]

Rear seal, yes. Front seal, no big deal. Rear involves a split.

This is front seal. Is it true you have to pull the case off the front? Not as bad as splitting the tractor - but still doesn't sound fun.

If there's a pressure related problem won't it blow out other seals? Part of me thinks it is because the tractor sat for a while at it's last home and it needed to be run more.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

This is front seal. Is it true you have to pull the case off the front? Not as bad as splitting the tractor - but still doesn't sound fun.

If there's a pressure related problem won't it blow out other seals? Part of me thinks it is because the tractor sat for a while at it's last home and it needed to be run more.

You don't have to pull the case to replace the seal, just the crank pulley.
Check the ring for a grove and there is an oring behind that too.

Check the breather in the valve cover and the breather pipe.

 

[Work Horse]

You don't have to pull the case to replace the seal, just the crank pulley.
Check the ring for a grove and there is an oring behind that too.

Check the breather in the valve cover and the breather pipe.

Huh.. that would be great news for me. I managed to find the thread that lead me to believe this. Is this wrong?

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...Vaw1Ov0rYYCfeU3btxBABu8Vr&cshid=1591266793899

Breather tube is definitely doing is job. Always has a steady, light puff coming out of it. Do you think there's anything else I should look into doing? I just find it weird oil leaks keep popping up.

 

[Work Horse]

Any idea what the part # is for that O-ring? Got a screen shot of the parts for the case and I'm not seeing it. Thanks again

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I've worked on quite a few of these engines and you can remove the seal without pulling the case, and it's even easier when you remove the collar, #180 then you just hook the seal from the inside and pull it out.

FYI, You will need to find out which engine is actually in the tractor, as this was one model that had both the D850 and D950 installed in it.
It's stamped into the flat on the block facing up next to the injection pump.

 

[Work Horse]

I've worked on quite a few of these engines and you can remove the seal without pulling the case, and it's even easier when you remove the collar, #180 then you just hook the seal from the inside and pull it out

Thank you for bringing this to my attention!! I never would have know until I got into it otherwise. So I need the oil seal for the crankcase and the O-ring for the crankshaft at minimum.

Is the collar reusable, or should it be replaced upon removal? Also, is there a special tool to remove the collar, or can you carefully wedge a tool and pry at it from multiple angles? Thank you, I'm a bit of a newbie when it comes to "internal" engine work. Did a rear main seal on my Mustang once - well, 3 times in order to get it right lol

 

[SidecarFlip]

The collar slides off but if it has a wear groove in it, you need the collar as well. Think I'd get the collar and seal.

 

[Work Horse]

The collar slides off but if it has a wear groove in it, you need the collar as well. Think I'd get the collar and seal.

Ah, thanks for the info. When I saw collar I just assumed it was pressed in. I'll post pics for others when I get around to it. Probably next week as I've got to order up everything I need. Anything else I should consider tackling while I'm at it? Getting real tired of oil leaks

 

[SidecarFlip]

Old tractors all leak a bit. Both mine do. I just don't park them on concrete.

 

[Work Horse]

Hello again, got all the parts on order and I realized another issue. I've been leaking oil pretty heavily as you all know. But.. my oil level hasn't changed. It stays right on full. I'm pretty positive hydraulic oil is leaking into the crankcase. Antifreeze level is normal, and I don't smell diesel in the oil. I was looking online to make sure I'm ordering the right parts. Can you guys help me out and make sure I'm getting what I need, also is there anything else you would recommend I tackle now? Thanks.

I'm thinking I indeed parts #020 (pump gasket), and #080 (oil seal) anything I'm missing or incorrect on?

 

[Work Horse]

Anyone have any insight on this? Thanks.

 

[Bobbyu]

Anyone have any insight on this? Thanks.

I had a aftermarket hydraulic pump that leaked oil into the engine on my B7200. Where was your leak by the oil filter coming from? I've had a slow drip coming from behind the filter and I can't find it.

 

[Work Horse]

I had a aftermarket hydraulic pump that leaked oil into the engine on my B7200. Where was your leak by the oil filter coming from? I've had a slow drip coming from behind the filter and I can't find it.

One if my leaks was the oil filter housing itself. There are O-rings on the back of the housing that can go bad. I used a little rtv and sealed mine back up and haven't had an issue. I would definitely recommend getting the O-rings and going that route though.

 

[torch]

I've worked on quite a few of these engines and you can remove the seal without pulling the case, and it's even easier when you remove the collar, #180 then you just hook the seal from the inside and pull it out.

FYI, You will need to find out which engine is actually in the tractor, as this was one model that had both the D850 and D950 installed in it.
It's stamped into the flat on the block facing up next to the injection pump.

Looks like I might be facing this issue myself. I have to take the covers off and verify the leak location, but it looks like it might be the front seal. The D750A parts diagram looks like the same arrangement, but with different part numbers.

1. How does the collar come out? Just a slip fit -- grab it with fingers and pull?
2. Does the seal wear a groove into the collar -- ie: should the collar be replaced as well?
3. On installation, slide the o-ring and collar in first and then coax the seal lip over, install the o-ring and seal first, then insert the collar, or install the o-ring, slide seal over collar and install as a pair?

 

[johndeerebones]

Looks like I might be facing this issue myself. I have to take the covers off and verify the leak location, but it looks like it might be the front seal. The D750A parts diagram looks like the same arrangement, but with different part numbers.

1. How does the collar come out? Just a slip fit -- grab it with fingers and pull?
2. Does the seal wear a groove into the collar -- ie: should the collar be replaced as well?
3. On installation, slide the o-ring and collar in first and then coax the seal lip over, install the o-ring and seal first, then insert the collar, or install the o-ring, slide seal over collar and install as a pair?

By the illustrated parts list yes. The pressure of the pulley is all that holds it. Personally (wrenched on cars and equipment for years). If going to the trouble of the front seal I'd replace it, the seal, and the oring. At the least the belt, fan and the pulley need off. Pulling the radiator will give more access. If my history is a guide the hardest part will be getting the pulley off.

 

[torch]

Parts ordered. That sleeve is the expensive bit -- almost $60. I was tempted to say to hell with it and make my own, then expediency reared it's head and I ordered it too.

 

[woodsy]

Did one of these jobs last year. Could see a fine oil spray coming off the
belt pulley when it was running.
Needed to pull the radiator to get the impact wrench on it although yours
might be different. Had to buy the big deep socket also.
Borrowed a pulley puller from the parts store no charge.
Replaced all 3 pieces, seal, sleeve and o ring. No more leaking.
Good luck with it !

 

[torch]

Yeah, it looks like it will be much easier access with the hood and radiator out of the way.