L3240 FEL Control Valve Removal Replacement Advice sought

[RuralNearDallas]

I hope I am doing this the right way. I think Forums don't like for us to comment on very old posts...but my situation is exactly like the old link copied at the bottom of this post.

So the thread referenced sesms to say: try cleaning outside, but if that does not work, clean inside of valve assembly or just replace with new, so that is where I am. If I mess up the valve trying to clean it (like cleaning a carb.) then I will buy new one fo $1k.

So, either way, I am removing and replacing the valve...but how?

I have the service manual which says:
-remove tire (supporting the transmission case versus axle which surprised me)
-remove fender
-remove pipes
-remove control rods
-remove the valve itself

All that assumes I already know about hydraulics which I don't really...or maybe I don't need to.

My ask concerns things like HOW to remove pipes...I assume line wrench. Maybe this is not any bigger of a issue than removing similar "nuts" that are used on radiators and fuel supplies which I have done many, many times.

I assume these are compression fittings, so don't really need teflon tape.

Also, what about capturing fluid....What about how to deal with bleeding or priming or otherwise dealing with air in system??

I want to have the exact size line wrenches before I start, but can't get to the nuts to check sizes until AFTER I remove the tire and fender.

That reminds me...the Kubota book says to use their special disassembling stand, but I called and they don't sell those to people like me. I found a picture and it seems like a rolling bottle jack with wide top support...so I guess I will use a bottle jack with block of wood.

As for removing the wheel....I suppose it is like removing my pickup wheels except a lot heavier.

Help appreciated


https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11695

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I hope I am doing this the right way. I think Forums don't like for us to comment on very old posts...but my situation is exactly like the old link copied at the bottom of this post.

So the thread referenced sesms to say: try cleaning outside, but if that does not work, clean inside of valve assembly or just replace with new, so that is where I am. If I mess up the valve trying to clean it (like cleaning a carb.) then I will buy new one fo $1k.

So, either way, I am removing and replacing the valve...but how?

I have the service manual which says:
-remove tire (supporting the transmission case versus axle which surprised me)
-remove fender
-remove pipes
-remove control rods
-remove the valve itself

All that assumes I already know about hydraulics which I don't really...or maybe I don't need to.

My ask concerns things like HOW to remove pipes...I assume line wrench. Maybe this is not any bigger of a issue than removing similar "nuts" that are used on radiators and fuel supplies which I have done many, many times.

I assume these are compression fittings, so don't really need teflon tape.

Also, what about capturing fluid....What about how to deal with bleeding or priming or otherwise dealing with air in system??

I want to have the exact size line wrenches before I start, but can't get to the nuts to check sizes until AFTER I remove the tire and fender.

That reminds me...the Kubota book says to use their special disassembling stand, but I called and they don't sell those to people like me. I found a picture and it seems like a rolling bottle jack with wide top support...so I guess I will use a bottle jack with block of wood.

As for removing the wheel....I suppose it is like removing my pickup wheels except a lot heavier.

Help appreciated


https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11695

I don't have time to read and old link, care to give a quick summary of what your specific issue is?

No bleeding required

Fluid loss will be minor, just a pan or short bucket.

Don't need to use line wrenches, standard wrenches work fine.

Fittings can be taper, O-ringed, and flared, but never compression.

Use a floor jack and a jack stand, and if you need to use a bottle jack never put the wood blocks on top!

 

[RuralNearDallas]

I don't have time to read and old link, care to give a quick summary of what your specific issue is?

Two part response: Here is the issue the other person had and is my exact same issue on my exact same model:

I am proud owner of a L3240 HST and having a problem with FEL control valve in the left or right position; it sticks and has to be manually bumped back in neutral position. Moving the valve forward or back springs back into neutral automatically. It started gradually and got progressively worse. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

 

[RuralNearDallas]

I don't have time to read and old link, care to give a quick summary of what your specific issue is?

Part 2 response....My intended solution as provided by user MOWOG

I had a similar problem recently... the piston on the left was stuck in the forward position. I removed the control valve from the tractor and put it over a square plastic pan to dismantle it... So I wouldn't loose anything. There was a small spring and ball on each piston as well as a larger spring on the end of each piston. I cleaned everything with solvent, oiled it up and put it back together. It's been working fine since. I didn't take the pistons out... Just oiled them up and everything seemed to slide back and forth real we'll. jim​

I am new to posting in orangetractortalks...??

Is it good protocol/okay for me to message MOWOG asking for him to check out my new questions? Since he has done exactly what I am trying to do?

 

[RuralNearDallas]

This is what I am trying to implement provided by user MOWOG from the referenced old thread:

I had a similar problem recently... the piston on the left was stuck in the forward position. I removed the control valve from the tractor and put it over a square plastic pan to dismantle it... So I wouldn't loose anything. There was a small spring and ball on each piston as well as a larger spring on the end of each piston. I cleaned everything with solvent, oiled it up and put it back together. It's been working fine since. I didn't take the pistons out... Just oiled them up and everything seemed to slide back and forth real we'll. jim

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Go to that thread and right click on his name and send him an email and not a PM, because the chances of him coming on here randomly after 5 years (his last sign in was 01-25-2015) probably won't happen.

 

[RuralNearDallas]

Go to that thread and right click on his name and send him an email and not a PM, because the chances of him coming on here randomly after 5 years (his last sign in was 01-25-2015) probably won't happen.

Thanks. I did that.

BTW, I made a Google Doc folder with pictures and such in it: https://drive.google.com/drive/u/0/folders/1pf-tvuCT8vsrizg4JChypE1re84p9__o

Also, I noticed on the earlier post that Lil Foot said:

When my B7100 & my buddy's B7510 showed the same symptoms, we looked at the area you have pictured. On ours, the cylinder shaped things you pictured contain the detent mechanism for the float position. Both were rusted beyond saving. They both had similar setups inside, with steel balls, springs, & a detent groove. I could not get parts for mine, so I removed the guts & it now is smooth as a babies butt, and I must hold the lever forward for float. My buddy has parts on order for his.
​

I need to study up on "detent" and "float"

 

[RuralNearDallas]

I added two new files to the below link. Both are from the official WSM manual.

One attempts to explain float/detent/etc and is called: ubotaFEL-Float I said attempts because I don't really understand how it works...and maybe don't need to.

Other shows details of the valve is is called: kukbotaDocDisassembleFELValve

It now seems maybe I don't need to disassemble the whole thing, but just the parts listed in step 2..the plugs. Wow there are lots of springs.... Or maybe not even both of those because one seems to be for the boom which is working fine...


https://drive.google.com/drive/u/0/folders/1pf-tvuCT8vsrizg4JChypE1re84p9__o

Even if these don't help me, maybe they will help others

 

[D2Cat]

You mentioned removing tire. Be cautious about removing rear tire. It may be filled with fluid and weigh 300-400 pounds. If so, keep the tire upright. Do not let it lay down, it will be difficult to get back up and it may harm you on it's way down.

 

[Lil Foot]

Are we talking about the FEL control valve?
Don't think I can be of any help on this, I've never seen anything remotely similar to the stuff in your pics.
My 1079 B7100 with B219 loader has a completely different style & location of FEL valve, as shown in these pics.

 

[RuralNearDallas]

Thanks. I have been thinking about that a lot.

I remember being encouraged to put fluid in the tire to lower the center of gravity....I never got around to doing it.

The valve cannot be accessed without removing the wheel....I am assured

 

[RuralNearDallas]

Wow...how handy....no need to remove anything to get to it...

 

[RuralNearDallas]

Resolution:

Removed Wheel and fender....so then we could see a bolt was extra tight. Cleaned, greased, inserted looser and with locktite. Worked much better.

After replacing all the hydraulic fluid, works much, much better. So glad we changed fluid and filters.