b2710 range shift repair log

[petemac]

I purchased a b2710 with a broken range shift. It only had 450hrs and the previous owner had left it in high for years after it broke. I wasn't ready to spent a lot on a newer machine, so this seemed like a good opportunity to buy something to repair. Mud season finally arrived so I ordered what I thought was broken, removed the loader, and got the tractor in a barn.

When I started looking at the repair more carefully I couldn't find any pictures of the range shift assembly or a log of anyone else splitting this model, so I wanted to share what I found in case anyone has similar issues. I don't suggest following my steps or assuming that I've done anything correctly, since I'm not a kubota technician or any sort of expert on much of anything at all.

The range shift lever was loose, but the external roll pin was not broken. The lever would move freely and occasionally have some resistance. I found that the range arm shift lever (6C170-18510) was bent in two directions. Since it was bent it also caused small damage to the range shift fork (6C070-18420) which was replaced, along with the rod it runs on (6C070-18410), and its detent ball and spring. Replacing the rod and spring/ball wasn't strictly needed, but I ordered them before in case they were somehow damaged. These are parts 120-160 on kubota's drawing. I re-sealed the split cases with permatex anaerobic gasket maker #51813, waited a day, and refilled with UDT2. The range shift functions well. I suggest being very careful with the 3pt lift assembly- I introduced or disturbed a tiny piece of debris which resulted in it lifting slowly. This was resolved by removing it, tearing down, and cleaning the valve body.

parts 120-160 were ordered

sheet metal and seat support off.

the range section is slightly red. The nuts on its left were removed to split.

differential, rear axle, and range were moved backwards on a rolling jack to stands

bent lever was replaced


Hope that helps someone in the future,
Pete

 

[GoatGuy]

Great write up! Very helpful. Was it difficult to tear it down and split the tractor? I have a b2710 that I was driving in high gear, when suddenly the engine stopped because something in the transmission case stalled it. The HST case under the seat is making a loud clacking sound and I believe I will have to split the tractor to fix it. Trying to weight the options of DIY vs repair shop.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Two comments... One, you should use Kubota 3 Bond to seal the casting mating surfaces and Two, I would have given it a bath prior to tearing it apart. That way no crud gets inside.

 

[Pau7220]

I would have given it a bath prior to tearing it apart. That way no crud gets inside.

Total Agreement!!

 

[Henro]

Nice of you to post your experience.

I have a b2910, same tractor just a couple more HP.

I think it would have been helpful if you used the parts drawing numbers rather than part numbers in your write up.

Other than that, great job. Thanks for posting and don’t be offended by attempts at humor. Only you can know if they are justified.

 

[petemac]

Thanks for the comments and I'm glad it might be a helpful contribution. Since repairing I've added 30hrs, mostly brush hogging, tilling, and grading, with no issues. Its a nice machine with all three ranges.

The comments about a bath are right on - I wish I had running water at this site for a wash because it would have saved a lot of time getting rid of junk. Aside from covering openings when working nearby and visually searching for crud, my approach was to filter my used UDT and pour it in/let it drain as a sort-of-flush. I did it a few times to ease my worries and I'll hope the filters deal with the rest.

Thanks for sharing the kubota 3-bond advice, hopefully anyone who uses this post for a repair considers it. I used the permatex because I've used it before with good luck, had it on hand, and I've read that it functions the same as the 1208 thats called for. https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29048

I never contacted a shop about fixing my issue, so I can't advise on the cost/benefit of a shop vs DIY. I certainly enjoy using the tractor more having seen and understood that section's operation, but was fairly nervous about doing the job. I planned for 3 days of work in an unheated shop with a reasonable selection of tools, jacks, stands, etc and I don't think it took more than two days total of calm and organized work. If I had a buddy in the area it would have saved some time handling the heavier bits and pieces.

Goatguy - If my 2710 was making strange noises I'd be tempted to take a look into the case to see if anything was obviously wrong by removing the seat and diff lock support bracket (although I'd bet some more experienced folks on this forum would have better suggestions!) If getting to that point doesn't seem too tough then the rest might be do-able, but if it is no fun then a shop might be called for.