L3800 won’t start after fuel filter repl

[JBar]

My L3800 stopped running and I found that the fuel filter housing had been damaged by some brush. I replaced the housing and filter. The bowl is full and fuel flows if line is disconnected but the tractor won’t start.
I assume there is air in the line downstream. I’ve read that the injector feeds can be loosened at the head to break the vapor lock but can’t even see, much less get to, them on this tractor with some major disassembly.
I’m seeking suggestions. The bucket is down so right now I can’t even move it to my barn or load it.
Thank you!

 

[old and tired]

Did you actually try bleeding the fuel system... unscrew a small knob just above the side oil filler cap.

 

[JBar]

Did you actually try bleeding the fuel system... unscrew a small knob just above the side oil filler cap.

Yes, I have, and I have also since loosened and unseated the cylinder injector lines per the YouTube article on this site. Initially I got some fuel oozing from the fittings but I’m not getting fuel there.
I’m at a loss. I really thought loosening those fittings was going to be the ultimate solution.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

I may be off base on this. I notice your fuel system diagram looks the same as my L35, but the bleed instructions are written differently. The L35 instructions are to open the bleeder valve and leave it open for 30 seconds after the engine starts. Yours just says 30 seconds. Did you by chance just open and close it without starting the engine? Since we have mechanical lift pumps, if the engine isn't cranking over no fuel/air gets purged. Hope this helps.

 

[old and tired]

...leave it open for 30 seconds after the engine starts. Yours just says 30 seconds...

I didn't notice that, I've ran out of fuel and had to do this... I did leave it open for a while before closing.

 

[Jim L.]

I’m at a loss. I really thought loosening those fittings was going to be the ultimate solution.

The L3800 does not need to have any lines loosened to bleed air.

The L3800 shares the same manual as the L3200. The manual page posted for the L3200 is all that is necessary. Turn the bleeder knob as per instruction. Set the throttle a bit above idle, and start the engine. Once started, move the throttle about half-up to a decent rpm, and the air will be purged. 30 seconds of this should clear the system. While the engine is still running, close the knob as per instruction.

There are so many videos and what-not showing to crack the lines, but on the L3800 it is not necessary and is just a time-waster.

Also follow directions to fill the tank so that gravity is working for you to move fuel initially.

Good luck

 

[JBar]

The L3800 does not need to have any lines loosened to bleed air.

The L3800 shares the same manual as the L3200. The manual page posted for the L3200 is all that is necessary. Turn the bleeder knob as per instruction. Set the throttle a bit above idle, and start the engine. Once started, move the throttle about half-up to a decent rpm, and the air will be purged. 30 seconds of this should clear the system. While the engine is still running, close the knob as per instruction.

There are so many videos and what-not showing to crack the lines, but on the L3800 it is not necessary and is just a time-waster.

Also follow directions to fill the tank so that gravity is working for you to move fuel initially.

Good luck

Thanks! I had tried opening the bleed knob and cranked dozens of times. I did have the throttle in full open. After failing with that, I took what I thought was the next step of cracking the lines. I cranked the tractor more times than I could count, fearing I’d burn out my starter.

My next step was to call Joe the local mechanic.

He pulled into my driveway and I walked out to go over and show him what I had done to save him some time. He said, “not necessary, you’re good to go.” I asked what he had done and he had opened the bleed valve and cracked the lines. I’m claiming “ I almost had it.” Joe obviously knew how to hold his mouth right. He charged me a whopping 25.00.

 

[D2Cat]

You should have asked Joe for a demonstration on how he exactly twisted his mouth or nose or whatever you claim to get a lesson on startling it next time.

I think he did just as PoTreeBoy explained.

 

[ranger4327]

this is a GREAT thread..... I did a full service on mine as well except the fuel filter. Took her out of the garage and it stalled. Started, stalled again. Thinking it was the fuel filter at this point, I replaced it. Started RIGHT UP and ran fine for a lil bit and quick drive. After it sat for 3 hours went to drive it back into the garage and it stalled, again, and again barely making it into the garage. After reading this read, I decided to take a look at that bleeder valve above the oil fill port. It was not closed. I am thinking when I used a funnel to put the oil in I mistakenly unscrewed it. I have since tightened it but have not tried running it yet. PLEASE TELL me that was the problem LOL. I was thinking it could be a clogged injector line and hope that's not the case or even possible.... Crossing fingers it was a simple fix, time will tell. I had to post my experience.

Thanks again for all the info you all post. It really helps !! I will post an update if I am good to go.

 

[JeffJ]

The L3800 does not need to have any lines loosened to bleed air.

The L3800 shares the same manual as the L3200. The manual page posted for the L3200 is all that is necessary. Turn the bleeder knob as per instruction. Set the throttle a bit above idle, and start the engine. Once started, move the throttle about half-up to a decent rpm, and the air will be purged. 30 seconds of this should clear the system. While the engine is still running, close the knob as per instruction.

There are so many videos and what-not showing to crack the lines, but on the L3800 it is not necessary and is just a time-waster.

Also follow directions to fill the tank so that gravity is working for you to move fuel initially.

Good luck

Same fuel purge issue after replacing the filter/bowl when I hit a large stick...followed your instructions and no luck....decided to pull the hose between the fuel filter and the inlet to the pump, at the pump connection....I noticed the hose loops up and then back down, apparently trapping air at the top of the hose....jackpot....a good burp of air came out followed by a strong fuel stream. Reconnected hose to the pump inlet and fired right up. I did have the bleeder knob open about halfway and the fuel tank topped off.

Good inputs on this thread...appreciate the advice!

 

[lugbolt]

I've had this happen a bunch of times

remove the fuel line that runs from the lift pump to the injector pump. Crank the engine over til fuel comes out. Reinstall the line, open the thumb screw bleeder, crank til it starts-then close the thumb screw.

when replacing the filter, I usually just screw the bowl back on loosely and let fuel fill the bowl until it starts running out of the connection between bowl and housing. Once it quits bubbling out of there, tighten it up and open bleeder screw on the injection pump. Start engine and then close the bleed screw. If you do this correctly, you may never have to touch the bleeder screw.