L3010 Water Pump?

[2000L3010]

This is a long post for a first post, but I am trying to provide enough information to get a little help.

I've used the search function on the site, but couldn't find much information. What should the volume be coming out of the water pump? This is a 2000 L3010 and runs great for about an hour and then the temp gauge goes into the "H" on the meter on the dash.

Here is what I've done so far:

1. Changed temp sensor in cylinder head
2. Check wire to ensure it's not shunting to ground somehow
3. I put an inline temp sensor housing in the upper radiator hose
4. Installed temp gauge to accompany housing and sensor
5. Cleaned the screen in front of the radiator
6. Washed out the radiator thoroughly (until clean water flowed through)

Last night, I used the backhoe for about an hour and the needle was almost pegging the "H". Using a temp gun, checked upper radiator hose temp and was around 120 degrees, the aluminum housing for the temp sensor was around 160 degrees. I could hold the hose in my hand, not very hot. I opened the radiator cap and it looked like water was moving slowly. The new gauge read less than 120 degrees.

Today, I replaced the new temp gauge and sending unit, because that temp looked low. Same results, low temps after running for about an hour but the factory temp gauge is barely off of "C". I decided to see if there was coolant flowing from the upper radiator hose, so I pulled the sensor from the housing with it running. When I did that, very little water was flowing out of the hole. I had the sensor parallel with the ground, I don't think the water was reaching the sensor (halfway up the hose). To see if the thermostat was opening, I pulled the upper radiator hose off of the thermostat housing with the tractor shut off. I cranked the tractor and water flowed out of the housing, that should indicate the thermostat is opening and the pump is working, right? It wasn't shooting a stream of water but bubbled out quite a bit. The volume through the hose doesn't completely fill the hose. But I can't get the water over about 150-160 degrees just idling and it's raining outside, so I can't do much right now. Using the temp gun, the factory temp sensor in the head reads around 170 degrees while the thermostat housing reads around 150-160 degrees.

My thoughts are that the either the water pump is bad or the thermostat isn't fully opening. What are your thoughts?

 

[SidecarFlip]

Replace them both and new hoses as well. They are 18 years old, nothing last forever.

I know you'll be tempted to use parts from Flea-Bay. You'd be better off using OEM parts.

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

welcome to the forum.

12.5 gpm

see common o/h diag check list below.
Kubota doesn't mention the stat but flow test w/o stat. will help diagnose.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You could start with a waterpump and thermostat change, but everything you're saying is telling me it's got a head gasket leak.

 

[2000L3010]

Thank you all for the replies. I'll get an OEM pump, thermostat and hoses on the way shortly.

Wolfman, you may be right. However, I don't see any white smoke and no loss of coolant. No bubbles in the radiator either, but it's still a possibility. My fingers are crossed.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Thank you all for the replies. I'll get an OEM pump, thermostat and hoses on the way shortly.

Wolfman, you may be right. However, I don't see any white smoke and no loss of coolant. No bubbles in the radiator either, but it's still a possibility. My fingers are crossed.

When you pull the pump, there are no fins left on the impeller, then you'll know.

 

[D2Cat]

Maybe you can borrow or rent at local auto parts store a radiator pressure tester. (Harbort Freight sells a kit for $90, which I wouldn't buy for one use.) Then you'd know if you had a bad head gasket before removing the water pump. It might also make it easier to work on the water pump.

 

[2000L3010]

NIW, sounds like head gasket may be a common problem with these engines? I am assuming the overheating is the precursor to the rest of the failure (water in oil, bubbles in radiator,etc.). This is my first orange tractor, so I am trying to learn all that I can and prepare accordingly. Any idea on cost for head gasket repair? Thank you for the feedback.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

NIW, sounds like head gasket may be a common problem with these engines? I am assuming the overheating is the precursor to the rest of the failure (water in oil, bubbles in radiator,etc.). This is my first orange tractor, so I am trying to learn all that I can and prepare accordingly. Any idea on cost for head gasket repair? Thank you for the feedback.

Actually a common issue is people over heat them for whatever reason and they crack the heads.
A failing head gasket is usually from bad antifreeze mix or just bad water.

I would do as D2Cat said and see if you can rent one from a local auto parts store.
If it fails DO NOT try and start it as doing a pressure test can force water into the piston and trying to start it will hydro lock it and bend or break parts!

Head gaskets are cheap enough ~$100.

 

[2000L3010]

Thanks again. O'Reilly doesn't have the loaner tool for the smaller neck sizes. Autozone's is broken. Looks like I'll make a road trip to the next closest Autozone tomorrow and see what they have.

 

[D2Cat]

Call first, these days!

 

[2000L3010]

D2Cat and NIW, thank you for the advice. I've had the tractor for about a month and have only used it twice, both times I shut it down when I saw it get hot. I'm not sure the guy that sold it to me knew it had any issues, I'm sure he just bought it and then sold it to me. Sure enough, put the tester on it and after about 10 minutes, the pressure dropped a little over 1 psi.

I've got my parts ordered: Upper and Lower Radiator hoses, head gasket, exhaust gaskets, valve cover gasket, bypass hose, water pump and thermostat.

Two questions:
1. What else am I missing?
2. Any possible way to get water out of cylinders?
I would like to move it into the garage, but I don't have a way to lift the loader or push it into the garage. Otherwise, I'm out in the open and we have rain in the forecast for the next two weeks

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You might get lucky and won't have water in the cylinders, as it might have just moved air.
But to be safe, turn the motor by hand off the front of the crank, you can use a pipe wrench to turn it, just don't force it at all.

Turn it at least 4 turns.
If it turns, then fire it up.

If it won't turn all the way around easy, you will need to remove the injector lines and the injectors,
when they are open first turn by hand then crank it with the starter to get the water out of the cylinders.

Then you will need to reinstall and bleed the lines and injectors for it to start.

Some head gasket kits come with the Oil pipe O-ring (pipe from the block to the head) if not you'll need to get that O-ring.

 

[2000L3010]

Changing the head gasket wasn't too bad. The valve cover was the most difficult thing to remove (Hydraulic lines run over the top). Took the fuel tank heat shield off and that gave me enough clearance. The head wasn't warped, cleaned it all up and put it back together. Cranked it up tonight and let it run for 30 minutes or so. I'll pull the valve cover off tomorrow and re-torque the head per the manual. This was a good time to replace the fuel filter and rubber fuel lines while it's all apart.

Someone had replaced the factory thermostat with a standard automotive 180 degree thermostat. I believe that allowed the water to enter the bypass circuit at all times. That could be why there was limited flow to the radiator from the water pump. After I re-torque, I'll run for an afternoon and see how it runs. The 30 minute run wasn't enough time to heat up the water to open the thermostat.

 

[2000L3010]

Well, 8 hours of bush hogging 3' grass with a 6' bush hog proves all is well. Thanks again for all of the help.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

So what do you think it was? Old thermostat in backwards?

 

[2000L3010]

Non-bypass thermostat was installed. The original thermostat was replaced with an incorrect one.