Hey guys, I have been getting quotes for a new gravel driveway that will be about 230' long that leads to my barn. I have a B2301 with an FEL and just wondered if it would be possible to do it myself and what implement would be best suited for taking up about 4" of topsoil. I would like to be able to do it myself but if it is going to be too much wear and tear on the tractor I'll look at other options.
Tearing out top soil to put in a driveway
- Thread starter jgregory2010
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GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
four inches ???
You NEED to remove ALL the top soil, not just 4"..... You have to get to the 'subsoil' otherwise you $$ gravel WILL disappear in a year... When you add the gravel, do it in 4" lifts or layers and COMPACT it..., if you don't ,well, that $$$ gravel WILL disappear.....
I removed the grass between garage and driveway, put 16" of gravel( 4 lifts) 1hr compaction per lift, put 4by8 pavers down...NONE have moved even with driving the 7000# forklift on them....
You NEED to remove ALL the top soil, not just 4"..... You have to get to the 'subsoil' otherwise you $$ gravel WILL disappear in a year... When you add the gravel, do it in 4" lifts or layers and COMPACT it..., if you don't ,well, that $$$ gravel WILL disappear.....
I removed the grass between garage and driveway, put 16" of gravel( 4 lifts) 1hr compaction per lift, put 4by8 pavers down...NONE have moved even with driving the 7000# forklift on them....
What do you have for options?
A disc will slice it up nicely, then bucket.
A box blade will cut it up pretty well.
230' is a perfect job, just take more bites.
A disc will slice it up nicely, then bucket.
A box blade will cut it up pretty well.
230' is a perfect job, just take more bites.
dirtydeed
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
B2650 BH77, U27-4R2, BX23TLBM, box blade, rear blade, flail mower, Stump Grinder
I'd have to say that yes, you can do it with your machine, but you'd need a box blade to do it. It will take some time for sure. Alternatively, hire out that part or rent a tracked skid steer and you'd have it done in no time.
I'll have to disagree with Jay on digging out that much material. If this driveway is only for access to a barn (and not the main driveway to your house) you could get away with 4-6 inches of stone (I would suggest using a 2A modified stone). This stuff compacts very well since it contains coarse aggregate along with fines.
If you intend to use the driveway for heavy traffic (equipment/trucks) or if the ground is soft/wet, consider going deeper and using #3's (3+ inch stone) as a base, topped by the modified stone.
In any event, be sure to lay down road fabric (geotextile fabric) before putting in the stone base. This will keep your stone from disappearing into the dirt as Jay mentions. Look for something similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/slp/road-fabric/hxgzoy736nyq372
I'll have to disagree with Jay on digging out that much material. If this driveway is only for access to a barn (and not the main driveway to your house) you could get away with 4-6 inches of stone (I would suggest using a 2A modified stone). This stuff compacts very well since it contains coarse aggregate along with fines.
If you intend to use the driveway for heavy traffic (equipment/trucks) or if the ground is soft/wet, consider going deeper and using #3's (3+ inch stone) as a base, topped by the modified stone.
In any event, be sure to lay down road fabric (geotextile fabric) before putting in the stone base. This will keep your stone from disappearing into the dirt as Jay mentions. Look for something similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/slp/road-fabric/hxgzoy736nyq372
Thanks for the replies. I will look into a box blade, will be helpful to maintain the driveway as well. As far as traffic it will be light, mostly the tractor, ATVs, and the occasional car or truck for maintenance. I figured 4"-6" with Geofabric should do the job well.
dirtydeed
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
B2650 BH77, U27-4R2, BX23TLBM, box blade, rear blade, flail mower, Stump Grinder
Yep, should do fine...but you're still looking at roughly 30 yards of material to move. It's going take some time.
I agree with the geo fabric, 3-4" of stone, box blade and bucket. I use crusher run for my driveways. Keep in mind, by doing this you are basically making a 230 ft exposed french drain of sorts. Pay attention to any grade/slope and adjust as needed for drainage.
Just have your stone guy tailgate 4 to 6 inch's of item 4 crushed blue stone with his dump truck right on top of the grass that's there. Driving on it will pack it down. That's what we do here in upstate NY.
I got sick of maintaining the gravel driveway which is about 800m long. So I did one more level using the box blade, ran a 4 ton compactor over it then laid down 150mm of asphalt millings.
Around here we can get millings and scalps very cheep. Millings are from road resurfacing when they groove the pavement. Scalps are from removing the asphalt down to the roadbase.
Once Its all spread out wait for a summer day and dust it down a binder and roll it. It will pack down to about 100-120mm thick
A 4in1 bucket makes it easy to spread out if you have one
Now Ive had the driveway in for 4 years and have not touched it lots of trucks over it as well with no issues.
As a comparison on price (delivered)
Crusher dust $500 per truck
Road base $700 per tuck
Millings $150 per truck
Im really just paying for the truck and the millings are more or less free.
When the resurface the roads its done in a single pass removing the surface and laying down new hot mix. As part of this about 25% of the millings created a reused in the new hot mix the rest is dumped. This costs for disposal so its cheaper to dump at my place, hence just paying for the trucking.
Around here we can get millings and scalps very cheep. Millings are from road resurfacing when they groove the pavement. Scalps are from removing the asphalt down to the roadbase.
Once Its all spread out wait for a summer day and dust it down a binder and roll it. It will pack down to about 100-120mm thick
A 4in1 bucket makes it easy to spread out if you have one
Now Ive had the driveway in for 4 years and have not touched it lots of trucks over it as well with no issues.
As a comparison on price (delivered)
Crusher dust $500 per truck
Road base $700 per tuck
Millings $150 per truck
Im really just paying for the truck and the millings are more or less free.
When the resurface the roads its done in a single pass removing the surface and laying down new hot mix. As part of this about 25% of the millings created a reused in the new hot mix the rest is dumped. This costs for disposal so its cheaper to dump at my place, hence just paying for the trucking.
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BAP
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Equipment
2012 Kubota 2920, 60MMM, FEL, BH65 48" Bush Hog, 60"Backblade, B2782B Snowblower
Taking out the soil you really don’t need anything more than you loader bucket. Start at the beginning and dig down the 4-6 inches and maintain that depth. Push in and take a bucket full and go dump it wherever you are putting it. You don’t need to rip it all up before you start, just keep your bucket at grade and let the resistance of the unlooesened soil help fill your bucket. Once you get the hang of it, you will do well. A box blade will help you at the end to be able to run over it and level out the high and low spots. Final grading of the gravel will be easier with a box blade too. Definitely use filter fabric under the gravel.
I agree with BAP. Ive been working on a similar project west of you at the Indiana/Ohio line. Tried using a tiller, then disc, and seemed just using the bucket with a tooth bar worked the best. Get through the topsoil, if virgin ground, probably around 8 to 12" where you are located. Put down a layer of fabric. This has seemed to really help sturdy things up. Then have the gravel trucks spread some #304. You can top with whatever finish gravel you choose.
I had 5 or 6 days over the summer where gravel was delivered. Here are some photos
https://flic.kr/s/aHsmFF2GWH
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I my experience seeing guys with small machines like yours if you are going 12' wide (driveway and siding work) you are going to have 400 - 600 bucket trips in and out of the jobsite.
Rarely / almost never do I see home owners who are removing overburden with small equipment get struck buckets full.
Not knowing where you are disposing of your overburden how long do you think its going to take you to remove 250 loads of overburden from your worksite then spread another 250 bucket loads of gravel?
: )
Interesting to see all the different responses. There is very much difference in what is needed depending on your area and soil. What is an excellent technique in one area is a poor one in another. Try to get information from people in your area who do it or have had it done.
I'm lucky with mine. 200 foot sloping and sidehill driveway, side slope for drainage. Six years ago I rebuilt it after 25 years neglect by the previous owner. I reshaped it and spread 1.5 inches of 1 1/4 minus gravel and haven't touched it since. And I get about 45-60 inches of rain a year.
Bruce
I'm lucky with mine. 200 foot sloping and sidehill driveway, side slope for drainage. Six years ago I rebuilt it after 25 years neglect by the previous owner. I reshaped it and spread 1.5 inches of 1 1/4 minus gravel and haven't touched it since. And I get about 45-60 inches of rain a year.
Bruce
If you can rent a sod cutter it will greatly help in removing the sod. You can scoop it up very easy. After cutting the sod lengthwise run it across every 3 feet to cut the sod into manageable pieces. Also defending on your sub soil you may need a sand base prior to a driveway substrate. And I agree with asphalt millings.