Hey guys I’ll try And keep it short and sweet. I bought a 2003 M9000 just over a year ago. It is 4x4 with a cab and loader and has Hyd. Shuttle. I bought the tractor with 1770 hours on it. When I bought it the guy just had the turbo rebuilt bc there was a bluish smoke coming out the exhaust. I took the tractor home and it now has 1816 hours on it and I went through 4.5 gallons of oil. Went to a few mechanics and told me it was still the turbo. So I put a turbo on it. Didn’t fix the problem. So did a compression test and found the numbers were pretty low. I now have a dissembled motor that is getting rebuilt. Since I am so far into it should I go ahead and replace the clutch? I had all intentions on putting a new one on it until I separated the engine from tranny to find no clutch. After further investigation it seems I have to pull the tranny out. I’m not sure I am up to do all that. I’m pretty sure the clutch has ever been changed. I have not noticed it ever slipping. But I don’t have much pedal left. The pedal is all the way out before the clutch engages and it will snap your neck back. There is no feathering of the clutch pedal what’s so ever. It’s all or nothing. I found an adjustment for the clutch cable under the floor board? Would this be a simple fix with just a couple turns on the adjuster nut? Any help would be appreciated. And if there’s anything else that I should be doing or changing while the tractor is separated please advice me. Thank for any help.
M9000 trouble. A whole lot deeper then I ever thought.
- Thread starter AngleBlade1cc11
- Start date
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Your tractor doesn't have a mechanical clutch, it has a hydraulic shuttle clutch, they don't wear like a mechanical clutch, and the issue that your talking about has nothing to do with the clutch pack, it has to do with the shuttle valve.
You don't need to change the clutch pack, and FYI, it's $1500.00 for that clutch pack.
Do you have the WSM?
If not get the right one, as the free copy won't help you with your problems.
P/N 9Y021-18008
You don't need to change the clutch pack, and FYI, it's $1500.00 for that clutch pack.
Do you have the WSM?
If not get the right one, as the free copy won't help you with your problems.
P/N 9Y021-18008
Last edited:
With 1770 hours on it, don't fiddle with the travelling clutch or the PTO clutch, they don't wear out. Just make sure the pressure is set to factory spec (the travelling clutch pack modulating valve is on the side of the transmission case and it externally adjustable, you will need a pressure gauge however.
Isn't that a surprise not to find a clutch in the bellhousing, only a damper plate. Make sure however that the damper plate springs are in good shape. That plate absorbs the torque jerk from the transmission and allows smooth shuttling from forward to reverse.
I suggest you get a WSM if you don't have one.
I own 2 M9000's a cab like yours and an open station, both with hydraulic shuttles (I won't run anything else). One has 2000 hours on it and the other is pushing 4000 hours. I farm with both and never a lick of problems with either.
Just had the open station at the dealer for an overhead adjustment and some other minor stuff and had them dyno it. It's making 89 horses at the PTO at rated 2250 rpm.
Not sure how the previous owner of yours euchered the engine but get it back together and you will like it. Great mid size utility unit.
Any questions, PM me or Bulldog on here, he has an M9 cab as well.
Isn't that a surprise not to find a clutch in the bellhousing, only a damper plate. Make sure however that the damper plate springs are in good shape. That plate absorbs the torque jerk from the transmission and allows smooth shuttling from forward to reverse.
I suggest you get a WSM if you don't have one.
I own 2 M9000's a cab like yours and an open station, both with hydraulic shuttles (I won't run anything else). One has 2000 hours on it and the other is pushing 4000 hours. I farm with both and never a lick of problems with either.
Just had the open station at the dealer for an overhead adjustment and some other minor stuff and had them dyno it. It's making 89 horses at the PTO at rated 2250 rpm.
Not sure how the previous owner of yours euchered the engine but get it back together and you will like it. Great mid size utility unit.
Any questions, PM me or Bulldog on here, he has an M9 cab as well.
What it is all about and like I said, it's externally accesable and adjustable. The valve modulates the lock up pressure of the travelling pack. Unless you have a WSM and know how to set it, I'd advise having a Kubota tech set it.
Yes I have a repair manual. Are you referring to the PTO clutch valve? I just took a quick look in manual. Maybe I missed it. I’ll look closer. What is my next step? I won’t be able to test pressure until the engine gets back in. Go ahead a change the valve? Take it out and clean it maybe?
Wow I wasn’t expecting such a rapid response. I just posted tonight. Thanks again for any help. I guess I’ll wait to get tractor back together then test the valve pressure and adjust to spec. Just didn’t want to put tractor back together to find out something I should have done.
Could be rear main seal or front transmission input shaft seal. Candidly, my 3500 hour tractor weeps a bit. I ignore it because I'm not going to split it to address it. It run super, nit gonna fiddle with it.
I remove the hex plug every fall and drain maybe 2 tablespoons out. There is really nothing in the bell housing for the oil to contaminate anyway. Remember, no clutch to get wet.
Don't know which shop manual you have but there is a distinct one for the hydraulic shuttle M9. Wolfman gane you the part number. The regular M9000 WSM don't address the shuttle at all. It's for the Utility (gear drive, dry clutch model).
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Not the PTO valve, but the shuttle shift valve.
Do you have the WSM that I said?
You can look on the bottom of the last page of the WSM for the P/N.
The other WSM's won't address the shuttle valve.
Is it Oil or Hydraulic fluid?
The answer will tell you which side you need to look at.
Do you have the WSM that I said?
You can look on the bottom of the last page of the WSM for the P/N.
The other WSM's won't address the shuttle valve.
Is it Oil or Hydraulic fluid?
The answer will tell you which side you need to look at.
I believe the shuttle valve is on top of the case in front of the rockshaft assembly. Not sure, my WSM is in the shop and I'm in the house. It's also adjustable for pressure and modulation.
Hello again,
It’s been awhile since I’ve been on here b/c my tractor is all torn apart and the engine is on the machine shop. I’ve been waiting to hear the news from them. I guess my engine is in need of a complete overhaul. They got a quote from Kubota for 3,300 for just the parts. Does anyone recommend or know of any place that would be cheaper with good quality parts? Maybe aftermarket or should I stick with OEM?
It’s been awhile since I’ve been on here b/c my tractor is all torn apart and the engine is on the machine shop. I’ve been waiting to hear the news from them. I guess my engine is in need of a complete overhaul. They got a quote from Kubota for 3,300 for just the parts. Does anyone recommend or know of any place that would be cheaper with good quality parts? Maybe aftermarket or should I stick with OEM?
I wonder if it wouldn’t be better to exchange it for one that’s been reman’d.
https://countrysalesandservice.com/rebuilt-kubota-engines/manufacturer/kubota-engines/
https://countrysalesandservice.com/rebuilt-kubota-engines/manufacturer/kubota-engines/
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Just to fine tune GeoHorn's suggestion, which by the way is an excellent suggestion!
https://countrysalesandservice.com/?s=m9000
https://countrysalesandservice.com/?s=m9000
That is exactly what I'd do. Very typical in the heavy truck arena. Take the old one (rebuildable, no holes in the block) out and install a reman.
I see it's a long block minus the fuel system (primary and secondary filters) but that is plug and play anyway. Looks like the turbo and wastegate puff limiter is already there.
...and if your bellhousing weep is the rear crank seal, you replaced that too.
While it's apart, I think I'd replace the front transmission case seal. I believe it's externally removable and replaceable.
Well the motor is already torn apart at the shop. Would have to put it all back together to take it to Country Sales and Service. I have talked to them and its 6,300 for a reman with a 1200 core. I tried to just buy a short block from them but they won’t sell me one. Has to be a complete engine which doesn’t make much sense bc you can buy all parts there. And the core price is based on what ever parts they can salvage from the old engine. Which sounds like not much. I’m still waiting for a list of parts I need from the machine shop. He quoted me a price of 3300 for just the parts alone but said he has to raise the price bc of his limited access with his supplier. I believe i can get parts cheaper. This really sucks as I finally paid good money for a tractor that I thought would last me a long time. I put 50 hours on it from the time I bought it and this is my luck. And the SOB dealer I bought it from won’t make good for it. I looked at so many tractors before I bought this too. Just had to settle on this one. Haha.
Used is used, no warranty expressed or implied. How it works I did that as well with my second M9 and was prepared from the outset to put some bucks in it, which I have btw. I just spent 2100 at my dealer for various issues to get addressed but thank the Lord none were catastropic engine related issues.
I had leaking seals in the engine (replaced), overhead adjustment, valves noisy (adjusted), multi function switch inoperable (replaced), let hand outboard planetary bushings sloppy (replaced all the bushings and bearings and seals), thermostat and rad cap (replaced and renewed), secondary fuel filter sucking air (replaced and filter element and water ring replaced as well). had the tractor put on the dyno and load tested, it's making 89 horses at the PTO. Good to go. Forgot, had the injectors pulled and pattern and pop off pressure tested as well. All good.
$964.14 in parts and $1200.00 in labor and that don't include what I did in my shop. I replaced the right outboard planetary inner seal, replaced both tie rod ends, put new shoes and tubes all around (that was 4 grand in rubber and tubes alone), changed all the fluids and filters including the outer and inner air filters, completely stripped the tractor down to the chassis only, repainted ALL the tin and had the upper bonnet repaired and repainted (200 bucks) at the body shop, replaced the crappy Kubota vinyl seat and suspension with a Grammer clone and a new K&M suspension (300 bucks), Power washed the chassis and engine with Zep, 3 times (was filthy, I hate filthy tractors), repainted the entire running gear and adjusted the travelling clutch and pto clutch lockup pressure (I have the WSM and the required gauges and adapters here), replaced the incandescent headlight bulbs with LED bulbs, sanded and repainted all the rims and cast centers, put everything back together.
It's finished and I fully expected to do all that and the motor if necessary but it wasn't.
You can never buy used and not expect issues, the way it plays. People don't trade or off any unit because it's perfect, they sell it because it's either not big enough or is has issues and they feel it's not worthwhile to repair and that likelyhood increases the older it is.
I did a bunch of the work myself but I still paid out a substantial sum. I bought it for $18K with a loader, SSQA and 2 buckets, one a material bucket and the other a HD dirt bucket. Nice thing is, because I already have an M that I bought new in 2004, everything interchanges and I only need to stock one set of filters and they both take the same fluids and oils.
Is it worth it? Damn right it is. I have no regrets and I own two pristine M's as well that are both pre 2 engines with no emissions crap to contend with down the road.
My biased opinion is, the M9's are the best utility AG tractors Kubota ever built with the hydraulic shuttle and and pto clutch packs. As they age they will require parts, just how it plays.
Almost forgot, I added a Tuff Top canopy as well. Don't kike the sun on my almost bald head.....
In summary, I paid 18 and put in about another 6 or so which brings me up to about 24. A new M9 hydraulic shuttle with loader listed for 45K. I know because I have the original paperwork for mine I bought new.
I'll sell you the one I restored for 30 if you want to buy it. It's most likely appreciating in value anyway as all the no emissions units are.
I wouldn't whine about what a motor will cost you, I look at them as an investment with a good final return when you decide to sell it.
My 2 cents for what it's worth.
I had leaking seals in the engine (replaced), overhead adjustment, valves noisy (adjusted), multi function switch inoperable (replaced), let hand outboard planetary bushings sloppy (replaced all the bushings and bearings and seals), thermostat and rad cap (replaced and renewed), secondary fuel filter sucking air (replaced and filter element and water ring replaced as well). had the tractor put on the dyno and load tested, it's making 89 horses at the PTO. Good to go. Forgot, had the injectors pulled and pattern and pop off pressure tested as well. All good.
$964.14 in parts and $1200.00 in labor and that don't include what I did in my shop. I replaced the right outboard planetary inner seal, replaced both tie rod ends, put new shoes and tubes all around (that was 4 grand in rubber and tubes alone), changed all the fluids and filters including the outer and inner air filters, completely stripped the tractor down to the chassis only, repainted ALL the tin and had the upper bonnet repaired and repainted (200 bucks) at the body shop, replaced the crappy Kubota vinyl seat and suspension with a Grammer clone and a new K&M suspension (300 bucks), Power washed the chassis and engine with Zep, 3 times (was filthy, I hate filthy tractors), repainted the entire running gear and adjusted the travelling clutch and pto clutch lockup pressure (I have the WSM and the required gauges and adapters here), replaced the incandescent headlight bulbs with LED bulbs, sanded and repainted all the rims and cast centers, put everything back together.
It's finished and I fully expected to do all that and the motor if necessary but it wasn't.
You can never buy used and not expect issues, the way it plays. People don't trade or off any unit because it's perfect, they sell it because it's either not big enough or is has issues and they feel it's not worthwhile to repair and that likelyhood increases the older it is.
I did a bunch of the work myself but I still paid out a substantial sum. I bought it for $18K with a loader, SSQA and 2 buckets, one a material bucket and the other a HD dirt bucket. Nice thing is, because I already have an M that I bought new in 2004, everything interchanges and I only need to stock one set of filters and they both take the same fluids and oils.
Is it worth it? Damn right it is. I have no regrets and I own two pristine M's as well that are both pre 2 engines with no emissions crap to contend with down the road.
My biased opinion is, the M9's are the best utility AG tractors Kubota ever built with the hydraulic shuttle and and pto clutch packs. As they age they will require parts, just how it plays.
Almost forgot, I added a Tuff Top canopy as well. Don't kike the sun on my almost bald head.....
In summary, I paid 18 and put in about another 6 or so which brings me up to about 24. A new M9 hydraulic shuttle with loader listed for 45K. I know because I have the original paperwork for mine I bought new.
I'll sell you the one I restored for 30 if you want to buy it. It's most likely appreciating in value anyway as all the no emissions units are.
I wouldn't whine about what a motor will cost you, I look at them as an investment with a good final return when you decide to sell it.
My 2 cents for what it's worth.
All the equipment I have, which is several pieces are old. Either have to kick it or punch it for it to start and run. I know all about having to fix old stuff. I was just saying that i finally got enough nerve to pay 32,500 for a nice tractor that I thought I would’ve have to kick it or punch it. I will have probably around 38,000 In the tractor by the time I’m done. Still cheaper then a new and without the emission. Just sucks to spend that kind of money and only put 50 hours on it and have to fix it already. I looked at several Other tractors before I pulled the plug on this one. It’s just my luck I pick the one that someone got rid of bc it was ready to spin a bearing or lock up. I appreciate all your 2 cents. Sounds like your Very knowledgeable and passionate about these tractors. And I will take all the help and opinions I can get. I wouldn’t be on here if I didn’t want the help. Thanks again.
The issue is of course honesty when it comes to the selling owner or dealer but a dealer won't really know because as a trade in or outright sale, they don't have a clue as to the history of any unit (unless they were the original selling dealer and did 100% of the services which is extremely rare because most owners do their own services and some like me do way more because candidly, I'm cheap but some thing I prefer to be done at the dealer.
Usually a private seller knows or has a good idea of an impending issue but won't allude to it because they want top buck and any issue, present or impending will cut the price of any unit so private owners tend to not be completely honest and I don't know how you purchased it anyway....and
You can only check it out a well as you can and hope the unit is free of any major issues.
When I bought this last M9, I bought it 600 miles from here, what I did was drive there on a Sunday because I knew the dealer (in this case a JD dealer of all things) would be closed and I went with my Kubota M9 key. Kubota only uses 2 key patterns on all M9's of any year so I had a 50-50 shot, My key fit just fine and no one was there so I fired the unit up, warmed it up, checked all the functions including how it drove and how well the loader operated, checked all the fluid levels and inspected the fluids visually for contamination. After my detailed inspection I knew pretty much about the overall condition (remember I have one already so I know what to look at and how it should sound and operate). I shut it down, went and got a local motel room, had dinner at a local place, went to bed, got up the next morning and went to the dealer and began negotiating on price.
I knew pretty much what it was worth going in and I also knew I was going to have to invest some capital to get it to where it needed to be (remember my used equipment philosophy) and they were asking more than I was willing to pay but I had a nice lever, nice crisp C notes, a nice wad with me, actually half of what I considered it to be worth. So we haggled a bit and came to terms and I insisted they deliver it to the farm, which they did and I financed the balance with Ag Direct because I deal with them on equipment all the time and it's a write off anyway. Being a JD dealer like all JD dealers they only know and care about green tractors and implements which was to my advantage and I never told them I was there the day before and carefully inspected the unit and ran it and tested it. I operate on a 'need to know and they don't need to know. I did find out it was used as a partial payment on a new JD of comparable size and who the owner was and what he used it for. Amazing what you can find out in the course of conversation...
As an aside, I always get a chuckle reading comments on here and elsewhere about how owners 'love' their tractors. I find that amusing. It's a machine. Machines cannot return the affection, they can only do the job intended and if you aren't careful, they can sure as hell hurt you or kill you. I love my wife and my dog but a tractor, no way.
I understand your disappointment with your engine but in reality (other than the seller if it was a private individual telling you there might be an impending issue with the tractor and being up front, which isn't usually the case, it's still as is where is and if it was a dealer, they would probably not know anyway.
Used, with no warranty (and in the case of an M9, which the last production year was 2008, will have no warranty as that was over 12 years ago.
I side with Wolfman and George and I'd go with a long block reman with a warranty. Is the dealer that is rebuilding yours offering a warranty against workmanship of any kind? If he is, then maybe but if he isn't, the reman is the logical choice, at least for me it would be and you don't have to take them an assembled engine anyway. A complete basket engine is fine as they can readily look at it and determine if it's rebuildable much easier and you need the accessory parts to refit to yours as well. They won't do an exchange without inspecting the donor anyway. A junker is nothing more than scrap and scrap today isn't worth much.
Again, my 2 cents for what it's worth. I know what I'd do but then I'm not you.
Usually a private seller knows or has a good idea of an impending issue but won't allude to it because they want top buck and any issue, present or impending will cut the price of any unit so private owners tend to not be completely honest and I don't know how you purchased it anyway....and
You can only check it out a well as you can and hope the unit is free of any major issues.
When I bought this last M9, I bought it 600 miles from here, what I did was drive there on a Sunday because I knew the dealer (in this case a JD dealer of all things) would be closed and I went with my Kubota M9 key. Kubota only uses 2 key patterns on all M9's of any year so I had a 50-50 shot, My key fit just fine and no one was there so I fired the unit up, warmed it up, checked all the functions including how it drove and how well the loader operated, checked all the fluid levels and inspected the fluids visually for contamination. After my detailed inspection I knew pretty much about the overall condition (remember I have one already so I know what to look at and how it should sound and operate). I shut it down, went and got a local motel room, had dinner at a local place, went to bed, got up the next morning and went to the dealer and began negotiating on price.
I knew pretty much what it was worth going in and I also knew I was going to have to invest some capital to get it to where it needed to be (remember my used equipment philosophy) and they were asking more than I was willing to pay but I had a nice lever, nice crisp C notes, a nice wad with me, actually half of what I considered it to be worth. So we haggled a bit and came to terms and I insisted they deliver it to the farm, which they did and I financed the balance with Ag Direct because I deal with them on equipment all the time and it's a write off anyway. Being a JD dealer like all JD dealers they only know and care about green tractors and implements which was to my advantage and I never told them I was there the day before and carefully inspected the unit and ran it and tested it. I operate on a 'need to know and they don't need to know. I did find out it was used as a partial payment on a new JD of comparable size and who the owner was and what he used it for. Amazing what you can find out in the course of conversation...
As an aside, I always get a chuckle reading comments on here and elsewhere about how owners 'love' their tractors. I find that amusing. It's a machine. Machines cannot return the affection, they can only do the job intended and if you aren't careful, they can sure as hell hurt you or kill you. I love my wife and my dog but a tractor, no way.
I understand your disappointment with your engine but in reality (other than the seller if it was a private individual telling you there might be an impending issue with the tractor and being up front, which isn't usually the case, it's still as is where is and if it was a dealer, they would probably not know anyway.
Used, with no warranty (and in the case of an M9, which the last production year was 2008, will have no warranty as that was over 12 years ago.
I side with Wolfman and George and I'd go with a long block reman with a warranty. Is the dealer that is rebuilding yours offering a warranty against workmanship of any kind? If he is, then maybe but if he isn't, the reman is the logical choice, at least for me it would be and you don't have to take them an assembled engine anyway. A complete basket engine is fine as they can readily look at it and determine if it's rebuildable much easier and you need the accessory parts to refit to yours as well. They won't do an exchange without inspecting the donor anyway. A junker is nothing more than scrap and scrap today isn't worth much.
Again, my 2 cents for what it's worth. I know what I'd do but then I'm not you.
One thing to keep in the back of your mind is that the VTE pre emissions engine with proper maintenance, the life span is around 6,000 hours before a rebuild of any consequence is needed and some will go farther than 6K hours, much farther depending on how they are maintained.
I have 4500 on the one I bought last spring and it's tight with excellent oil pressure. I fully expect it to outlast me. Same with my other one I bought new.
The M9 is the 4020 of JD and it's common knowledge how long a 4020 will go and what they are worth today.
I have 4500 on the one I bought last spring and it's tight with excellent oil pressure. I fully expect it to outlast me. Same with my other one I bought new.
The M9 is the 4020 of JD and it's common knowledge how long a 4020 will go and what they are worth today.