Oil change issue
- Thread starter FRP
- Start date
I have a new 2650 (a few months old) I follow the ford hot supper break in and always have.
I changed the oil at 1 hour - it had some minute particulates in it as well as in the filter, the oil was clean.
I did the 10 hour service and the oil was clean, and the 50 hour, the oil was clean.
YMMV.
I changed the oil at 1 hour - it had some minute particulates in it as well as in the filter, the oil was clean.
I did the 10 hour service and the oil was clean, and the 50 hour, the oil was clean.
YMMV.
Daren Todd
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
Massey Ferguson 1825E, Kubota Z121S, Box blade, Rotary Cutter
All of the used oil doesn't come out when you do an oil change. Oil pools in gallies, oil lines, turbos, ect.....
So that small amount gets mixed in with the new oil changing the color.
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So that small amount gets mixed in with the new oil changing the color.
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Was just postulating and poking at you a bit.....
I do sometimes wonder how many owners do just that however.
I used to run 15-40 Rotella but I switched to 5-40 T6 about 6 years ago and have stuck with that because the 5-40 lets the engines turn over easier when cold. Remember, I don't have block heaters on them nor do I have electricity in the barn so they sit in ambient temperature in the winter. Same with my pickup truck.
Candidly, I was amazed how clean the overhead was and I took my finger and ran it over the topside of the head between the valve mechanism to see if there was any sludge laying on that surface and there was none. Just as clean as when the engine was new.
Last summer I replaced the HUEI and glow plug harness on my 1997 7.3 Navistar in the pickup which entails pulling the valve covers and same deal, clean as a whistle underneath. You could plainly see the paint marks on the valve springs and the catalog numbers on the injectors and the valve covers had absolutely no blowby residue on the underside. Didn't even wipe them down. Just reinstalled them.
My pickup is the same deal. Oil colors a bit between changes but never gets black.
The valve clearance is excessive on the M9 and I expected that. I'm way past Kubota's recommended valve adjustment interval. WSM says 0.008 -0.010. Told Dennis to set them towards the 0.008 side in as much as I don't run that particular tractor that hard, it's a rake tractor.
I still believe the black oil at drain time is caused by the pollution controls and carbon getting in the lube oil.
With 4000 meter hours on the M9 engine, I expected some blowby and dirty oil from that and that hasn't happened either. Hardly any vapor comes out the road draft tube from the valve cover. Remember, this motor is not a pollution motor, no emissions hardware / software whatsoever. and...
I always use Powerservice in all of them, all the time. Winter = red, summer = white.
Must be doing something right, think I'll keep on my program exactly.
I better add that I always change my oil hot. I'll change after the engines are up to running temperature which can be a bit dangerous (as far as getting burned from hot oil) but I'm always careful and so far, all these years, I've never got burned.
I feel that with a hot change, any suspended junk in the oil hasn't settled out and it flows easier out the drain plug(s) better anyway.
I don't endorse that for everyone however.
I feel that with a hot change, any suspended junk in the oil hasn't settled out and it flows easier out the drain plug(s) better anyway.
I don't endorse that for everyone however.
Magicman
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
M4900 Utility Special 4WD e/w FEL & 1530 John Deere "Traveling Man"
Just curious why T5? Shell Rotella T5 is a Synthetic Blend 15W-40, while Shell Rotella T6 is a Full Synthetic 5W-40.
Edit: OK, now I see where you stated that you have switched to T6.
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Are you sure about that? The white bottle of PS is for winter. The red is the 911 version, and is only supposed to be used on fuel that is gelled. The red is not supposed to be used regularly. Put differently, the white bottle is preventive, and the red bottle is an after the fact treatment to get your deisel running again after you already have a problem with gelling. I think the summer one is the silver bottle (but don't quote me on that one).
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You are correct and I don't use the red (diesel 911) stuff, just the white bottle all the time.
I do use Archoil fuel additive too, but that is a cetane enhancer and biocide, not a fuel conditioner like powerservice.
Using powerservice, I've never had any water in my separator in either of my M9's.
I do use Archoil fuel additive too, but that is a cetane enhancer and biocide, not a fuel conditioner like powerservice.
Using powerservice, I've never had any water in my separator in either of my M9's.
You got it... White winter, Silver summer, Red oh crap.
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YOU Probably did but change oil filter also.
My tractor has compression release and I pull that after I have drained the oil and taken the filter off.
I then run engine for a moment,, it does not start,, with compression release pulled.
This pumps a bit more dirty oil out of filter opening.
Good Luck
David
My tractor has compression release and I pull that after I have drained the oil and taken the filter off.
I then run engine for a moment,, it does not start,, with compression release pulled.
This pumps a bit more dirty oil out of filter opening.
Good Luck
David
That also runs the risk of the oil pump losing it’s prime, which risks total oil pressure loss after start up (unless you have the know-how and equipment to re-prime the oil pump.). The few ounces of old oil remaining in the machine is insignificant during a regular oil change considering all the oil still entrained in other passageways.