DIY Front end loader - B1550

[Shawnmc]

Just wanted to throw some images up here since Facebook is horrid for keeping up information.

Basic front end loader for a Kubota B1550. 72" pin hieght, basically a full copy (dimensions wise) of a BX23 size loader.

Loader cylinders: 2016 (2" bore 16" stroke) 6orb
Curl cylinder: 2508 (2-1/2" bore 8" stroke) 6orb
Control valve: BM40 2-spool joystick (6/8/10orb)
Tractor side pump fittings: 3/8" BPTM x 3/8" JICM
Hard lines: 3/8" SS .045" wall
Soft lines: 3/8" single braid with 3/8" JICF swivels
Steel needed;
1" pin, 6 pieces all at 4"
3/4" pin, 4 pieces all at 4"
2"x2" 3/16" wall box tube 240" or so
2"x4" 1/8" wall rec tube 80"
3"X5" 3/16" wall rec tube 60"
All brackets made from 1/2" and 3/8" plate
Bumper brackets built from 1/4" plate and 1-1/4" sch40 pipe.

I'll update more and drawings when I get up to it. Making a new style quick connect. I don't like the levers and that, I like simple. 3 slip pins and done. We'll see how it goes.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

NICE ! and I see you 'support' Princess Auto just like me....

Did you consider making it SSQA ? It was THE must have option when I bought my BX23S last year. Too old to fidget with 4 pins and heavy things, SSQA makes 'tractoring' easy and fun.
You've obviously got welding/design skills, SSQA is easy to make. Could send you pix and dimns if interested.

 

[SDT]

Just wanted to throw some images up here since Facebook is horrid for keeping up information.

Basic front end loader for a Kubota B1550. 72" pin hieght, basically a full copy (dimensions wise) of a BX23 size loader.

Loader cylinders: 2016 (2" bore 16" stroke) 6orb
Curl cylinder: 2508 (2-1/2" bore 8" stroke) 6orb
Control valve: BM40 2-spool joystick (6/8/10orb)
Tractor side pump fittings: 3/8" BPTM x 3/8" JICM
Hard lines: 3/8" SS .045" wall
Soft lines: 3/8" single braid with 3/8" JICF swivels
Steel needed;
1" pin, 6 pieces all at 4"
3/4" pin, 4 pieces all at 4"
2"x2" 3/16" wall box tube 240" or so
2"x4" 1/8" wall rec tube 80"
3"X5" 3/16" wall rec tube 60"
All brackets made from 1/2" and 3/8" plate
Bumper brackets built from 1/4" plate and 1-1/4" sch40 pipe.

I'll update more and drawings when I get up to it. Making a new style quick connect. I don't like the levers and that, I like simple. 3 slip pins and done. We'll see how it goes.

That's a Bi-Speed Turn model like my B1750.

Be certain to keep the Bi-Speed lever in the "Off" position when the loader is attached.

Great fab work!

SDT

 

[Shawnmc]

Thanks, yes princess is good, but Cummins hydraulics is the place to go when you need the right parts. That BPTM fitting for example. When I do the lines I'll be going there for the saddle style fittings for the hardlines as well.

I was going to do a SSQA/quicktach clone but changed my mind. I work with scraps/cutoffs exclusively, I'm super cheap. All the materials are cutoffs and stuff that has hit the scrap bin. I don't buy steel. So I designed the quick attach system I'm going to use going by the materials I have on hand and what I can make. Going to consist of two 1" vertical pins below and a single horizontal 1" pin in the center. I have lots of plate cutoffs and a press brake so I'm going to make it well gusseted and simple to attach. I'll post some pictures of it later.

 

[torch]

Be careful not to have the loader positioned too far out in front of the tractor - the distance between the front wheel and the back of the bucket when its flat on the ground should be approximately the same as the front wheel diameter. the further out the bucket is, the more force it applies to the front axle and the less stable the tractor will be when trying to move with a full bucket.

 

[Shawnmc]

Loader is no further out than a LA340. Took all my measurements last time I rented one to do my foundation. Plan was to copy onto a case 444, they translate over to this Kubota easily. Bucket will be 50" wide. Yes I will be doing tie-in plates to the rear diff, and whole goal is to make the mid-mount mower still useable. Still working on how I want to do the quick connect for the main posts, the front upper supports are held with 4- 3/8" bolts. Think I might just weld some 1/4" plate around 3 sides of the main posts and drill some 3/4" pins through.

 

[rbeall]

Loader is no further out than a LA340. Took all my measurements last time I rented one to do my foundation. Plan was to copy onto a case 444, they translate over to this Kubota easily. Bucket will be 50" wide. Yes I will be doing tie-in plates to the rear diff, and whole goal is to make the mid-mount mower still useable. Still working on how I want to do the quick connect for the main posts, the front upper supports are held with 4- 3/8" bolts. Think I might just weld some 1/4" plate around 3 sides of the main posts and drill some 3/4" pins through.

It is looking good so far. I fabricated a FEL for B8200 last year. One thing to keep in mind is the curl of the bucket. If you can’t un-curl your bucket from a decent height it is hard to pile snow in the winter. I could be wrong, but your curl cylinder seems a bit short in stroke at 8 inches. My two cents.

 

[Shawnmc]

Curl cylinder on a LA340 is 2"x6" stroke.

I went with a 8" to get a bit of extra travel, and worked out good. Had to modify the geometry quite a bit to get it where I wanted from the LA340 measurements. Now I have proper tilt at max lift. At 72" pin height I have 51° back, 51° forward. At 52" pin hieght I have 79° tilt forward. I think at those angles I'm equal to what I've read for angles on standard loaders.

Looking at it now maybe I might take 3" out of the upper arm and bring it in a bit closer, anymore and I'll risk the curl cylinder crossmember touching the grill guard.

 

[Shawnmc]

Had all but 1 line made. Was going to go partial hardlined but, I'm lazy. Going to hard line most of my return to tank from the power beyond. Last line into the filler neck for the transmission, going to use a tee so I can still fill fluid without removing everything.

Found a nice old scrap bucket at work that's built exactly like a snow pusher, so that will be the first attachment. Going to whip up some mounts for the rear diff tomorrow.

 

[007kubotaguy]

Nice looking loader. Just a suggestion. When you remove the three bolts from the rear axle jack the back of the tractor up. I have found that if you leave the weight of the tractor on the axles with the bolts out the axle will pull away from the rear housing. Then when you bolt it back together it will leak.
Good luck Lance

 

[torch]

Had all but 1 line made. Was going to go partial hardlined but, I'm lazy.

When I built my FEL, I planned on hard lines, I think they look so much neater and professional. However, once I started laying things out I realized just how short the hard lines would have to be, and just how many more fittings and connections that entails, I decided to forego the additional expense and points of potential failure as being impractical on a compact tractor. Function over Form.

 

[Shawnmc]

When I built my FEL, I planned on hard lines, I think they look so much neater and professional. However, once I started laying things out I realized just how short the hard lines would have to be, and just how many more fittings and connections that entails, I decided to forego the additional expense and points of potential failure as being impractical on a compact tractor. Function over Form.

Yes that's a big part of it. Instead of 10 hoses you need 20. That's another 20 fittings, and at between $9.99-19.99 per crimp fitting, it gets expensive even faster.

I'm only going to hardlining my return line from the power beyond, made it today from my 3/8" SS tube from the scrap bin. Wasteful people here, brutal, but fruitful.

Brackets also made for connecting to the rear diff. Line is on, brackets on, deck back on. About to make the supports from the rear diff brackets to the front towers. Anyone have any pictures of their subframe from a 1550/1750?

 

[Shawnmc]

https://youtu.be/KtPLxgNaM1s

Here it is first test, start was at idle 1000rpm, at the higher speed was at 1800rpm. Increased the speed significantly. Have more welding to do, rear diff subframe, tidy up lines, and build the bucket. Going to use the current one for forks. Tubed in the rear in stainless last night and got the mower deck on to check clearances for the subframe. Decided I'm just going to weld it in solid instead of quick remove. I've taken down enough trees this year that the extra on the front won't be an issue for cutting grass. We will see after a bit of use.

 

[SDT]

https://youtu.be/KtPLxgNaM1s

Here it is first test, start was at idle 1000rpm, at the higher speed was at 1800rpm. Increased the speed significantly. Have more welding to do, rear diff subframe, tidy up lines, and build the bucket. Going to use the current one for forks. Tubed in the rear in stainless last night and got the mower deck on to check clearances for the subframe. Decided I'm just going to weld it in solid instead of quick remove. I've taken down enough trees this year that the extra on the front won't be an issue for cutting grass. We will see after a bit of use.

I have the same 60" MMM on my B1750.

It is a great mower. Much better than the currently available suspended decks.

SDT

 

[Shawnmc]

I have the same 60" MMM on my B1750.

It is a great mower. Much better than the currently available suspended decks.

SDT

I noticed the 2 drop brackets to hold it up while not in use, tried using them? I figure that's alot easier than dropping the whole deck out.

 

[Shawnmc]

Well, learned a valuable lesson on lending out equipment.
A buddy borrowed it to spread some gravel, said "it worked perfect, I didn't even need to use the bucket!" Dropped it off while I was out. This is how he returned it. He even welded it. Fantastic.
Arms were 90° when he got it. I've been using it since I finished it in March/April 2020 for clearing land, digging gardens, working driveways, lifting motors, etc. Only had 1 cracked weld which I recently repaired.
I've seen the stories and thought "no, my friend would NEVER do that to me!". Then again, I also believed the government always had my best interest in mind when making decisions.

 

[torch]

That damage could only happen by lifting something really heavy.

That said, you need to calculate your maximum lift weight and adjust the pressure relief valve so you cannot lift anything heavier. After you fix things properly and give your buddy a slap upside the head, of course.