How? where? Got a pic? The throwout bearings I’ve seen are sealed units and it’d take a hell of a drill to get thru the hardened race.
No and I'm not going out in the snow and cold and crawl under the Eagle to take a picture either.
Left hand drills sometimes catch and wind the remaining stud out for you.
This guy has excellent sets for good excellent prices.
Interesting. I wonder what makes a "4 pad" friction plate heavy duty? Seems like there is less friction material. It might be less likely to warp, I suppose.
. I purchased my Genuine Kubota parts from Golden Eagle Equipment (online) and a few on ebay. My spreadsheet shows my out of pocket expenses of $2013.32. If I had to do this again, now that I have experience I could have saved $250 by not draining the transmission oil and taking care of the injection pump shims.
Glad it all came out fine other than your fund depletion....I have successfully complete the overhaul process and the engine runs
Thanks for the help. My next job will be replacing the oil seals in the front wheel housings but that will be another thread.
The seal I'm talking about is number 50 in the attachment. I have replaced a couple of these on both sides. I found a line of pitted rust on the mating surface of the knuckle fig 145, it looks like it could have been exposed to a salty environment. I chucked the knuckle in a lathe and cleaned up the surface as much as I could (not an easy surface to get to while the knuckle is spinning in the lathe). My next approach is looking into putting a sleeve on that surface if I can find one the correct size.Glad it all came out fine other than your fund depletion....
Front seals are pretty easy and parts aren't that expensive. Before you replace / renew the seals,, check the vertical play (slop) in the outboard assemblies by removing the wheels and grasping the end of the axle and lifting it. There should be no or very little vertical movement. If there is, the bushings will need to be replaced or the radial seal will leak fluid.
